Trimming the fat on a lot of parts: NEW IN BOX FACTORY FRONT AIR DAM ( MAY SELL, MAY NOT- TAKING OFFERS ) NEW IN BOXFACTORY LEFT FENDER- ( MAY SELL , MAY NOT- TAKING OFFERS) NEW FACTORY RADIATOR SUPPORT/FRONT FRAME SECTION (MAY SELL , MAY NOT 500.00 ) NEW FACTORY FRONT FRAME RAIL SECTION- ( MAY SELL , MAY NOT - TAKING OFFERS ) 1983 STARION TAILLIGHTS- NICE SHAPE- TAKING OFFERS MITSUBISHI ALUMINUM REAR WINDOW LOUVER w/ ALL HARDWARE 250.00 83 SIDE PILLAR VENTS 75.00 SHP WHEELS $400-50

I'm kinda stumped at this point. I've fiddled with the VE tables both up and down as well as with the req fuel settings and no matter what I do the car will fire up then die immediately. I used some standard after-start enrichments as well as warmup enrichments. Can anyone suggest what else I can check? I'm using the MK1 crank pulley with trigger wheel and it appears to be setup correctly with the missing tooth 9 teeth ahead of TDC. I've attached my tune file. It's using MS2/extra firmware 3.2.1

Hello again SQC ,   I recently met a guy at a Honda meet who had a very keen interest in my Conquest (even though it wasn't there). He knew a lot about the cars, and it turned out he owns an 83! The sad part is he said it just sits . He later posted on the local Honda forum saying he wanted to buy or trade his Accord for my Conquest! I don't want his Accord, but the 83...   Now, here's the question:   If he is willing to trade his Starion for my 88, do you think it would be worth it? The 83 is

Hey guys does any one know at what tem does our car kick from open to closed loop and vicer versa. Im thinking about getting a 170 thermostat for ky car. Does not get drivin in rain or winter. Just runs a lil warm during these 100+ days. I have an aluminum sr20 radiator. If a 170 is to low for the car to kick to closed is there any way to run a lower temp sensor so the ecu sees what it needs to to kick it into closed and open loop? Or is there any way to ground the sensor and trick the ec