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Not entirely sure if this forum is still active, but I recently picked up an '88 wiring harness to toss into my '87 and I got it and am entirely too confused on where to start. Electrical stuff doesn't really click for me, but I'm trying to figure out what connector goes to what and where to start. I can't find any diagrams labelling it so this might be a shot in the dark, but any help is greatly appreciated.

Just got my 87 to pass smog again (barely) it keeps having a nox issue was told my the tech that it leaned out under any boost I don't have a wideband yet, will hook up autometer narrowband gauge shortly to take a look I think the injector wires were mix-matched when previous owner replaced the pigtails one injector has two wires of the same color (green/white) if memory serves Can someone with a properly running 87 take a pic and list the colored wires going to their injectors?

I'm parting out the engine and transmission of a 88 Conquest. Odometer shows 69,xxx miles. The engine was still full of nice green antifreeze. I bought the car not running, so condition is unknown. I was told it needed a starter. When I pulled the engine, it was missing a starter bolt allowing the starter to move away from the block and flexplate. Oil was old but was not milky. Turbo a little dry but manually turned smooth. Now for some prices. Long block $250, Intake with injectors $75, Turbo $75, Distributer $50, Intercooler $40, Transmission $100, Auto Shifter with linkage $50, Alternator $15 Radiator $50. Shipping is not included in the prices listed. If I did not list something you need, just ask. I have all parts right now since I'm doing a V8 swap. Thank for looking! Scott

I've tried looking around in a few places for some help here, but no luck- bought a rear strut bar with the battery relocate bit on it, had no tie downs in the front (figured id clean up the engine bay instead of finding some tie downs and a battery that would fit) anyways, ive made new wires for the ground, block to alt, to chassis, and now just have to run pos. and neg. cables through to the engine bay from the trunk i assume the only way to do this is run them through a grommet in the firewall and go through the car, just through the center console? and what about the rear seats? if anyone has experience with this sort of thing it would be greatly appreciated have no previous experience running wires through an interior thanks Aaron

my cluster lights do not turn on. whenever i turn my headlights on my climate control lights turn off. the root of the problem may have durrived from a hot wire i have hanging out behind my cluster. i never messed with it because everything worked fine but my friend (who happens to be too curious) decided he was going to grab it without asking which gave him a wicked sweet burn and now im stuck with no lights in my cluster. any areas i should start by checking? ps. all my fuses are good.

I got my first car a 88 chrysler conquest and im the third owner but some where along to was the guy just ripped out the tape deck and put an after market one in then ripped that out and theres just the speaker wires and a cluster on wires and i was wondering if anyone had a diaogram or something to hook up a addapter so i can put an aftermarket deck in there

So here is my list of all my upgrades, yet I still can't get a constant 14.4 nor even a constant 12 volts. Even if I turn off everything at times the car takes forever to charge up, or if the headlights are on it will only show 10 volts. Maybe you guys can help me decide what to do next.. Charging: 4ga ground from alternator to engine block 6ga piggyback wire from alternator to battery for increased charging capacity (with fusible link) dual factory sized fusible links on charging harness from alternator to battery (going to a single 12ga fusible link with the single 6ga charge wire next) Note: When car first starts power shoots to 14 volts. if I turn on lights, heater, radio and everything it comes down to 12. If I sit at a light with brakes lights on it may drop, it may not, if I sit at a stop with a turn signal it will start to decrease, but nowhere near what it used to, the surge of the blinker is almost unnoticeable now. Note: driving with radio and all accessories off did notice the voltage fluctuate when I hit a bump..? this is random and it's not by much Note: driving at night with lights on will cause voltage to drop, driving at 2k rpms will sometimes recharge the voltage, sometimes faster then others, sometimes it hangs at 10v for a mile or two Stereo: 4ga wire from battery to-- 100 amp inline fuse after battery to-- 4ga wire to 1.25 farad capacitor to amp-- 4ga wire from cap to inline 100 amp fuse-- 8 ga wire from 100 amp inline fuse to amp amp is grounded with 8ga--cap is grounded with 4ga to the bolts that hold the electrical device in front of the spare tire.. Note: Sound system seems to be in perfect order with almost no/if any power surges under bass. Ignition: cleaned up ignition switch-- replaced hot wire from connector to switch with 8ga wire soldered in on original terminals(yes it fit) Note: this made my lights brighter, my wipers work faster, the turn signal surge almost disappear, blinkers blink faster, heater blows harder.. Added: 35w 6000k VVME HID kit, I am now HID spoiled Removed: AC condenser pusher fan (it was burned out and suspected amperage draw) Coming soon: Blower Fan replace (Heater seems to draws a lot of power, normal maybe?) Rad fan replace (old motors can draw high amps if they are worn and on their way out) thinking about: CS130, maybe even CS144 mod Secondary battery in trunk (Maybe just replace front with bigger in the back in Battery box) Overall my charging and electrical is working top notch, when it works correctly. With stereo turned on full blast it will hold 12v for a good while. I have gone through every ground on the car IAW with PQ's write up. I'm thinking my alternator is questionable but hate to replace it with another OEM and get another headache in a few months, opinions on this? since I can't get a bracket for a cs130 I'm working on manufacturing my own next week, but I can't take the car down except on sundays and it has to be back together come monday morning. I am also thinking of going to a big blu marine Optima in the trunk either as my primary or secondary battery any opinions on this? I'm thinking of going to a CS144, same size as a CS130 but I can get it in 140amp size with the iceberg case cheaper than a OEM alternator so I may do that, the camaro is currently apart for preps for the season so I will be using the CS130 out of it for building the bracket. I guess if anyone can think of a wire I missed or a terminal I should clean let me know so I can work these gremlins out. Thanks in advance.

ok theres a black wire with a white stripe with a black connector on the end of it that goes to my alternator. as it gets closer to battery it splices off. Where does this splice go? This black wire shares a blue and white connector with a yellow wire. I also need to know where this yellow wire goes. I had to cut the yellow wire and the splice off the black wire to remove my factory harness. Any help would be much appreciated!

got this a long time ago, just doing the install but i'm lost on wiring this up. i got one 2950 cfm fan with a plug and one bung for the thermosensor. if anyone has the same rad i would sure appreciate some help. sly