DSMconquest

Damn!!!!!!!! Looks good. You ever go out to the lot spot? I'm from Brunswick and am just wondering if I have ever ran into you. Most people in the DSM community know each other round here. Keep us posted with your project.

I picked up a pair of rear rotors for my '89 from the local Advanced Auto about 3 weeks ago and it cost me less than $20 for the pair out the door. All other parts stores wanted about $60 a piece. I was pretty shocked when Advanced quoted me 9.XX a piece. They are not the best of quality, but they will do. NO rotors are manufactured in North America anymore. Anybody know where to get Brembo blanks for our cars at a decent price?

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/1121092311a.jpg Here is a pic of the thermostat housing on my car. Both the coolant temperature sensor and the temperature switch are in this housing. It is attached to the head and may need to be grounded like you said. When the car was parked 5 years ago when I went to college everything was working. I even tested the resistance of each gauge in the instrument cluster and all that checked out ok. Thanks for your input and hopefully I can get this fixed.

I did not use the Starion temperature switch, I used the one for the 4g63. Engine coolant temperature gauge unit resistance for both sensors at 70°C (158”F) is 104 ohms +-13.5. So I do not see why it would be an issue using either switch. Please correct me if I am wrong.

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P4290007.jpg http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P4290008-1.jpg http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/th_P4290009.jpg Finally got it up and running. I still need to get some stuff finished up before it starts tearing up the streets. The main thing is the downpipe with tial mvs wastegate stills needs fabbed up so it can build boost. I dunno what I did in the process of getting it to start up, cause now my dash lights and certain gauges do not work. All the head lights, tail lights, turns, flashers, door lights, dome lights, high beams, low beams, fogs, everything but the dash lights work. Any suggestions? I am pretty sure my dimmer switch is bad. Anyone have a spare? Also, some of the gauges do not work. The coolant temp and gas gauge stopped functioning. The oil pressure, speedo, tach, and volts all work. The coolant gauge really pisses me off cause I need it to work. Its just one wire from the temperature switch (1 wire on DSMs) to the cluster. I have checked the wiring, gauge, and replaced the sensor. Does anybody know what may be causing this?

I can prob use a headlight switch too. I dunno what my problem is stemming from. My dash illumination worked then I ended up doing some things to get my car running and I may have shorted something out. I am happy that the car finally runs and drives under 4g63 power, but I am very meticulous with how I did the swap and I want certain things to function properly. Let me know if you have another one of these laying around as well. PM me pricing

I need a working dimmer switch for an '89, don't know if they are different through the years. Someone please post if you know. PM me price you want shipped to 44212. Thanks to all in advanced. Adam

Its not a frank, just a normal MHI 20g. I have an blown hx40 sitting around somewhere. If I can dig it up, i can maybe check for clearances for it. Ill keep ya posted.

I am just running a MHI 20g and a ported 2g manifold. I was thinking bout running Holset, but I got this turbo for $200 so I couldn't pass it up.

Thanks Bill... couldn't have done it without ya making me the intake and bellhousing. Ill have to drive it up to your shop this summer so you can check it out.

The hole in the firewall goes back 4 inches into the cabin. I just made the box out of carbon fiber and sealed it to the firewall with 3M window weld. The engine is a 1g DSM 6 bolt and the head is also 1g head. I try and not think about the total cost of build. When I get new parts I basically just throw the receipt out because it would make me sick if I added everything up. I am sure the swap could be completed for about 2k or so if you source the parts right and can handle the fabrication. Ill post some pictures of the motor mounts when I get around to taking some. The suspension is still the factory SHP units. At this point I just want to get the car running and get the engine tuned before I do suspension work. Been waiting to drive it for too long. Eventually Ill get the mr2 inserts and coilovers, but I'm not stressing it. Thanks for the compliments guys. Should be able to post some more pics in a few days whenever parts arrive.

Here is my '89 Conquest with 80k on the odometer getting the 4g63 swap. Its pretty far along and now I am at the point where I am just waiting for parts to get shipped to me. I am using one of Bill Hincher's trans adapters for the w-series trans. The wiring is done and everything that should be getting power does. All the lights, locks, windows, etc work. A few more weeks and hopefully it will be ready to start up. Here are some pictures of how it is currently resting in the garage. http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270588.jpg http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270590.jpg http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270602.jpg http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270599.jpg http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270598.jpg http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270593.jpg http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270594.jpg http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/dsmconquest/P3270591.jpg

Hey Jay I live in Brunswick too. I got an '89 Quest with the 4g63 swap almost finished. Just need to rebuild my 20g and get my AFPR the I should be able to turn key. Let me know if you need any help with your project. Can't wait to see more pics of the swap.

I need one of these lines. PM me how much shipped to 44212 and your paypal address. Thanks

Anybody have dibs on the manual belts yet? PM me what you want for them along with the trim behind the shifter where the emergency auto belt bs is.

ttt

You are awesome Goddard. I guess I could also use the clutch master cylinder gasket and the bracket for the brake fluid reservoir as well. The clutch pedal doesn't bother me if the rubber is coming off. I was planning on using some of the sandpaper with adhesive backing to cover the pedal. So all together Ill need the clutch pedal and hardware, both clutch and brake master cylinder brackets, the clutch master cylinder reservoir, gasket, and hose/clamps. Will ya still do this for $30? Let me know, I have your payment waiting. Now do any other fellow starquest owners have a spare bracket for the clutch pedal assembly? Please help me out guys. Thanks

$30 shipped via paypal sounds good to me. I am sure someone on here will be able to help me out with the bracket. I do not need any of the manual trans parts underneath the car, thanks for asking though. This is going on my 4g63 swap that is using the Toyota W series trans. I was going to use the pedal assembly from the Toyota, but I found out the clutch master cylinder size has the same bore for the the supra trans and the conquest trans. Just figured it would make more sense to use the assembly that is made for the car. Let me know your paypal addy and I send you the $30. Thanks again.

Thanks for the quick response and pics. PM me what you are looking to get for all of this. I guess I could use the hose going from the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder. Also, do you have the bracket the clutch pedal assembly attaches to? Here is a pic for reference in this thread (the one he welds to the car).

Thanks for the quick response.... looking forward to the pics. Hope we can work something out.