InvolvedRotary

Alright, dont listen to us. Some of us actually have spent considerable amounts of time researching suspension setups for cars that grip better than a SQ, some of us take our safety more seriously than others. But i'm telling you: IT IS UNSAFE to run without hubcentric rings. You can claim all you want, but those studs are under considerably more stress than they were designed for, and the guys that sold you those wheels, will tell you anything they want to sell em, which to be honest those look more like cheap knockoff Cragar wheels. Bet the center 'disc' of the wheel has 4 long bead welds holding it to the barrel of the wheel too. I can also tell you that if you ever tried to track that car with the wheels as they are, any COMPETANT tech inspector will flag it and not let it run until its dealt with. No 'race' car runs with wheels bolted only to the studs like that, those wheels were designed with MUSCLE cars and trucks in mind, vehicles that have 'huge' hub lips compared to the starion. I only sound harsh because I do not want misinformation spread about something as important as wheel fitment. Its a safety issue not a looks issue.

The turbo on a stock rx7 is...kinda on the small side. IIRC the compressor I would compare to our 12a, but the hotside is close to a T3/T4 footprint, the upgrades for rotaries are generally large T4's, but if the turbo has minimal shaftplay it could be worth something if the price was right id imagine (to those needing a stocker to get around on). One of the better places to sell parts would be www.rx7club.com as well as www.rotarycarclub.com OR ebay if you had to, and craigslist if the area is known for having some rx7's around.

well for one the fuse block itself 'would' be a good 'upgrade' piece should you ever need it. I have been planning on using one of my spare FC fuseblocks (the underhood one) to replace the crap fusible links...but that wont happen until I figure out the proper fuse sizes I need. The oil cooler is explanatory, as its freaking huge compared to most other stock oil coolers, not to mention it has its own regulator that opens somewhere around 165~180 I think (id have to doublecheck the FSM's i have), I plan on running one soon as I get lines made up and figure how to disable the SQ's oil temp regulator so I can just run off the FC regulator (colder is better in my opinion at least for hard driving). The calipers can be sold off well enough, though if you take the entire 5 lug setup (if its 5 lug) most owners like to upgrade from the base model stuff to the better grade units (FC front calipers are exactly like FD front calipers except the FD calipers dont say mazda on them.) The other stuff is what can be sold easily for good profit, as the S5 (89~91) taillights and mouldings/bumpers are worth enough to warrant shipping most times (the tails go for a couple hundred easily). There's not much interior wise thats worth anything UNLESS the steering wheel is a factory mazda MOMO wheel (they are kinda nice for a stock wheel), then again Ive never tried to fit a set of FC seats into a SQ, chances are they 'might' fit if you can swap the rails over, I know I'd rather have a set of the GXL or Turbo rx7 seats than anything that came stock in the SQ's...im small and get thrown around the seat during spirited drives. ooo if the injectors look ok, those are usually decent to clean and resell. Stock NA injectors are a quartet of 460CC injectors and turbo injectors were 4 550CC injectors. They are about the same flow style/injector as the SQ's, also the EFI'd 1st gens (84 and 85's) had a pair of 720CC injectors OR 680CC injectors. The radiators are iffy at best, and nothing else I can think of would swap over to the SQ's, unless you wanted to get tricky and try to graft on the A arms and front suspension bits to also work in a manual steering rack (which werent too bad). I think the alt's were also fairly nice to maybe attempt to fab in place of a stock SQ piece, i think the plug though is more 83~86 SQ though. the later model rx7's (89~95) had the roundish plug that looks like the GM alt plug. Stock amperage was 70amps I think for the 86~88s and 80 amps for the 89~91's and 100~120amps for the FD alt's (depending on year and what mazda was using that month) Cant really think of anything else valuable that could be sold, though if it has a GLASS sunroof that IS worth money, as would an undamaged unrusted sunroof with a good seal. Oh, and if it has a 'duckbill' spoiler on it, thats worth money to the right people (I think I gave a hundred for one myself in good shape). I think thats everything I can think of off the top of my head, though if it IS a turbo car, there's probably a few other little items that may be worth something to others in the rx7 community. forgot to mention: Unless it is a turbo car, the CLUTCH set will NOT work. The NA's were a 225mm flywheel IIRC with the T2's getting the larger 240mm flywheel.

Monday morning parts bump~

Personally, speaking from experience in owning multiple 2nd gen rx7's. Take the oil cooler (make sure you get the brackets that are attached to it) and the fuse block at the least. If it has the BBS mesh wheels, those fetch decently if in good shape with the rx7 owners (rim weighs 10lbs minus tire), if the taillights are the 'round' style and not the 4 bar style, those also fetch a couple hundred bucks, if it happened to be a turbo car, the transmission is worth money to both FC AND FD owners, same with the rear dif IF its a turbo dif, calipers are only worth getting IF they are the turbo/GXL/convertable 4 piston calipers. Other than that, everything else is hit or miss unless you have an fc that needs bits and pieces. I wish I hadnt gotten rid of my own rx7...but live and learn.

unless the spacers were perfectly hubcentric as well, they will need an inner ring to make them hubcentric as well, which they should also have a 'hub' lip on those rings, then you need a ring to fit that. Cheap wheels are cheap for a reason, and from the sounds of it, youve got some funky physics happening to those front studs. Edit: Upon further review of your pictures, there is STILL an area you can put a ring around on the front to make things hubcentric for the wheel.

you need a set of rings that fits first over the stock bore, then it has to be thick enough to match the bore of the wheel. Stud centric seating of a wheel is not the right way to mount wheels, it ranks up there with missing a lug nut/stud. The wheel puts all of the forces of the road FIRST through the studs then through the hub, then into the spindle, where a hub centric design allows the rim to be seated perfectly on the hub of the wheel. Most manufacturers run hubcentric designs because its safer (my rx7's factory bbs's were very snug against the hub lip, always had to kick the wheel to get them to seperate, and to a degree so do my SQ wheels). I may not agree with the choice of wheels, but do us the favor of at least running a set of hubcentric rings, chances are EBAY will NOT have them, you may have to go to a real tire shop or performance shop and see about getting a set of rings made.

probably not a good idea to leave it open, the air may or may not be metered that it is sucking in, i'd cap it off to be safe, or trade maf lids with someone who wants a recirculating setup.

I want to say thats a return nipple for a bypass valve (recirculated BOV). I could be wrong but thats what it looks like to me.

So are those at all hubcentric or do you plan on snapping some wheel studs soon?

Just to make the suggestion, but why not pick up one of the fiberglass pieces from Ebay? shipping an engine isnt cheap by any means, and IIRC the airdam is about 350ish total, which is about what shipping a motor in a crate will cost more or less. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TURBO-STYLE-ONE-PIECE-FRP-FRONT-LIP-STARION-CONQUEST-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5889ac9881QQitemZ380266911873 Guy also has a carbon fiber version as well.

One set of mechanical rockers pending sale Still have another set of mechanical rockers AND a set of hydrolic roller rockers for sale, as well as one stock cam for use with mechanical rockers.

Bump~ Still have parts for sale

lemme rephrase, the dash isnt so much cracked, but it has visible lines and rough patches to it as opposed to being nice and uniform.

It sounds like you will want to drill 1 or 2 large holes in teh trim piece to accomadate your wiring/vac line to run everything cleanig behind the trim (there is plenty of room behind it for wiring and such). As for removal/install, I dont recommend just a pressure fit, as it will rattle itself loose which may cause further problems. If you have to ever take it off for whatever reason (i'm assuming to change the boost settings you have to adjust something on the back of the gauge?) then just disassemble the hood and pull the trim off (changing the plastic push pins for self tapping screws maybe) and go about the day. Personally I dont have an A-pillar pod, ive got 3 gauges mounted in an outcasthorizon radio panel, and 3 more mounted in a triple pod screwed to the top of the dash (dash has cracks and such so no big loss) with my wiring for all my electric gauges running down to the radio harness to draw its power from.

Sorry, no MAS's at all, and sold the only extra tps I had with the first intake bundle.

Disassembled my junk head, mechanical rockers and shafts are OK, need a polish but otherwise usable. Again, id like $30 +shipping for the set of 8 mechanical rockers + the seperation springs and the rocker shafts.

why not pick up a hub? Mookeh should have em, looks like it could take a generic momo hub. Not a bad looking wheel though.

The exhaust needs to be hung properly from beneath the car to take the weight OFF the turbo (which is what would have caused teh crack). Also you need a section of flex pipe to also aid in keeping stress off the exhaust manifold itself. You can try to have the manifold welded, OR see if someone on the forum as a good one for sale, then have it stress relieved so that when it expands and contracts with heat it will be less likely to crack again. Burnouts and donuts would be more likely to snap axles and break rear ends than to crack turbo manifolds and exhaust housings.

You may also want to have the rest of the exhaust system checked out, it sounds like youve put alot of stress on the exhaust housing to cause the crack.

Also to add to the list of items for sale is a good condition stock turbo w/exhaust housing. Turbo needs rebuilt and already has AN fitting adapters installed for the water lines. Has up and down shaft play, little to no play forward and back. Housings are both in good condition as are the wheels. Turbo did NOT smoke at all, only allowed oil into the compressor housing, worked fine otherwise. Will take 50 +shipping for it.

Got the turbo installed today, old 12a had quite a bit of up and down shaft play as well as oil in the compressor housing. So far no leaks, no smoke, and spools better than the stocker, so i'm happy thus far. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo11101713.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo11101712.jpg

True enough, though the only way to tell is to actually see the car I guess. I've got a buddy with a convertable 2nd gen rx7 that I work on occasionally. He 'curbed' his left rear wheel bad enough that it made the BBS wheel uttery worthless save as scrap, and bent everything but the axle, including bending a 1" thick bolt that runs vertically through a bushing. We at first thought it was just a simple matter of the lateral link being bent (it was obvious), replaced that to see the 'new' wheel was still cocked at an unwanted angle. So then the entire control arm had to come off since it was deformed, and could only physically tell it was bent/tweaked by holding it up against the replacement. Good luck though, if I ever get a second SQ I'd prefer one with good paint and no need for body work...I can handle mechanical fix's more than cosmetic. Edit: After review of the estimated dent depth along the quarters, then yes no wheel damage should have been incurred with the guardrail. Though bending a rim on a pothole...thems some big holes to be not avoiding to cause that kind of oops.

I second looking over suspension parts for damage. If he hit a guard rail hard enough to bend a rim, he also fubar'd the control arms and any lateral links associated with that wheel well, and really if it 'looks' straight it may not be until you put a straight wheel on it to see how bad alingment is going to be.

still got the rockers.