speed racer

Ive seen some kinda b2600 MPI intake modded to fit a 2.6 but no pics or info abut it...no help huh...I have an extra starion intake i'm gonna try and weld injector bungs onto and fit a big TB for MPI use.Im also working on a sheet metal type intake too.mild steel and wont be that pretty.....more like Frankenstein,....But after all the trouble ive had w the stock system since I got the car back together ive had it w it and gonna give a shot.fed up with the stock TBI system.ran fine when tore car down a few yrs ago.did it all go bad in a bnox in my garage?lol..apparently it did.After a lot of research here on doing a MPI conversion....no way to do cheap and ave it work for crap.$1000 min.some ways cheaper than other but require more fab work on part of owner/builder.what's your skill level for fabricating/welding/wiring ect? seems to take ppl here months to a yr to get up and running.some less.the quickest way I think would be to buy a known running intake and electronics from somebody and transfer to your car,Atleast an intake like a modded MAGNA

looks like bot the TEP and 3sx brake line sets are $109.not bad.Ive ordered stuff from TEP long ago and got in a week...how is the 3sx for ordering and delivery?I'm working 65 hrs a week at he moment till he.. freezes over so the price no biggie for once.lol.just need then soon whatever i get.

cool.willl check out the braided hoses.I ditched the abs modulator when I put the car back together.got all new rotors and good pads.wanna swap my old calipers for new before winter and replace e brake cables.For now just need the line fixed to drive.My starion gonna have to serve as daily driver instead of just a weekend toy.

while under my car tday canging oil noticed te brake hose was leaking a bit,.,,,solves the mystery of where my brake fluid going huh...I looked them up on rockauto for a replacement but not sure what ose I need.They have listing for upper and lower,inner and outter depending on brand,.so my question is whats what?The one I need is the hose from the inner fender at hardline connection then to the strut for the passenger side front.the line from the strut to caliper ok.just wanna be sure before I order,also considering ordering all 4 and do both sides since not very expensive at all.

get some new gas after draining the 8 month old crap may help too,.....atleast your car will appreciate it.

I can TIG weld just don't have one at home.know of one guy w a welding and machine shop that may let me sit and use is for a little while,maybe should just finish my mild steel intake I started long ago.blow the dust off.i do like the injector holders.No rush...MPI on back burned for a while now anyway.

looks good.....So the push on hose and connectors require no clamp?.......As in they fit tight enough to seal just fine with no hose clamps ?sweet.i just got a starion engine from a guy wanting to do a v8 swap and now have a 2nd stock intake i'm itching to modify to mpi. The enginw has a bit of a knock and that's why he decide to pull.don't care so much about block I just wanted the TBI stuff and so now running again.got a lot of extra stuff outta the deal...guy didn't know what was worth nor care.I got rid of an old chevy trans I will never use.Now I just need a way to weld the cast alum intake.

well then mr Shelby you come down and fix it for me.i will simple myself down a bit and either figure it out or junk it.end of story.I think i'm done here though....atleast for a long time.I do best when I tune everybody out so that's what I think I need to do.

update time.got it to run again and while idling on secondary with just primary clip checked secondary injector clip and no voltage.this after tugging and pulling harness trying every combo I could to get it to run on its own and me not have foot on gas pedal.somewhere down the line in the harness I got wires transffering current to where it doesn't need to be.side not.....my primary injector still has issues but that's another story......I haven't ;pinned out' the wires coming off the ecu plugs and won't unless this another dead end.just gonna unwrap harness on intake side back as far as needed to find the short.been suspecting this but finding not so easy.once I find and fix I will swap in the injectors I got from LOWER SHORES.he no longer had delphis so I have a set of LUCAS if that makes much difference.I haven't tried them since before I fixed the TB coolant leaking issue.if fixes great....driving I will go...if not,,,,,this stock TBI crap is going in the trash to join my trucks old quadrajet carb.........i'm done with it,

Have read a few times.will check over next few days.could I possible just run new wires from ecu to resistor or injectors?thought about that tday.tat's if I discover a short of some knd.will give it a little more effort just cause I wanna know wt.... wrong but gonna get back to my MPI intake anyway.personally I feel my time more worth wild to abandon the stock mess and go for the conversion.i can work all the overtime I want at my job to afgford the standalone system.....the resource I don't have unlimited is time and have wasted a lot messin with a primitive system that even on a good day isn't great.these cars don't follow normal rules either.the rin has stopped and i'm almost outta beer so will get out and give it one last shot;

thanks starquestrescue.i do like your advice..i will get out and probe the injector outputs from the ecu this eve.it is a weird one and I been suspecting a wiring harness problem for a while.not fun to nail down.tho this eve my daily driver begs for the attention.if get to it this eve will probe the injector outputs if it will start again.i flooded it out last nite messin w it.it got 3 sets of plugs I been swapping out.a bottle torch burns off the gasoline pretty good.lol.originally I planned to go MPI conversion but had to divert $$$ to my current DD so that killed the MPI.I started a MPI intake outta mild steel...time to finish.that's a whole diff can of worms I realize but after headaches never ending w the stock system......i'm ready to jump.I don't want 400hp I just want dependable fun car and I don't believe it's possible w stock TBI system...not w 20+ yr old electronics.

the tag under hood say its an 88 and the title says 88....its insured as 88 and it worked properly as it should back in January and feb when drove last...what other verification ya want/want a blood and dna sample too?lol...

The car is nan 88..everything about the car is 88.....pretty sure that's been covered in most all my prev post..ive had it for 18 fn yrs I think I know by now what yr it is and it had never been touched till I got ahold of it.both injectors are deff pulsing at idle.ots friggin possese and I need a priest with holy water and just figure it out myself.all ive gotten from here is mostly confusion but thanks for trying anyway.when I finally do get it straitened out I may post back and let ppl know just because they may have such problem with their cars.,it worked and ran fine then it didn't since I put it all back together...something shorted out or a wire broke somewhere....I just keep missing it,.maybe the ecu is fubar but still works enough to kinda make the car run.25 yr old electronics....anything goes.

Anybody?

UPDATE ok..i put the stock MAS back in and now the engine is totally stock.did it change anyting or fix my wierd problem...NOPE.....not a bit so i'm eliminating the MAS from the wt.... is wrong equation.I did notice something while messin w it.i flooded it out on the secondary ofcourse and it wouldn't start up anymore.,will swap plugs...again later but while cranking if I pushed pedal down to floor the needle on the stock boost gauge would jump up from -14 vacume to zero then back when I let off the gas.does that mean anything?maybe I think.as if maybe the TPS is doing something though when tested last nite the voltage at the ecu plug never changed.maybe the sensors are all fine but the ecu has had a nervous breakdown.lol...thinking outside the box and honestly done w this stock TBI piece of 80's Japanese engineering.its go or blow time for this thing.

*shaking head*.....yeah...it's an 88.it shouldn't be running as it is.It did run properly and something broke,shorted out....idk what yet but it went from strong running fresh rebuild to sputtering black smoke beltching pain in the butt.the last time I did drive it was when I moved it a few blocks when I moved at end of febuary.it backfired a bit and was idling high ...around 3k.I got it to new place parked it and didn't mess with for a week or so while I got settled.idk if tt little bit of info is helpful or not but just thougt of it and so posted.gonna get out and swap 1st gen MAS for stock unit.will post again later if made diff or not.

the voltage doesn't change,stays at 0.38volts and rockauto no longer has TPS for our cars.allready tried.had a listing but called to order and they are gone,not availale I was told:(

I was about to spend some $$$ with FIP....damn happy I didn't now.I would be out a lot of money and a fuel injection mixer top rail.....sucks they went out like that...they had nice stuff for our cars.anyway.....As for the 83....since converting to anything else is gonna be a wiring challenge and some $$$...make the leap to MPI.after months of chasing various probs w my stock 88 system wishin I had gone that route as originally planned.

went out to the car before too much beer and checked the TPS voltage at the ECU as you (starquestRescue) suggested.with the key 'on' but not started I got .38v with the TPS turned all the way CC.i turned it clockwise till it stopped and got .38v.......the same no matter what position I had the TPS turned.much better way to test than trying to poke probed into the plug under hood.so since the voltage didn't change is my TPS dead or atleast virtually useless?My guess would be a big YES.i don't have a home made code reader but will make one ASAP now that I got it to atleast run.I took down the ECU and unplugged...checked the arness as far up to the firewall as I could and seen no signs of where a spatter ball had burned thru the loom into wiring.

Thanks for the reply .will check the TPS voltage at ecu plug.didnt get chance to swap the MAS out.got home late and after a hot a.. day of welding at work....cold beer my best friend now.I know a stock TPS is impossible to get and the Hyundia one is close enough to work and not very expensive so may give that a shot.My only other thought on it tday was maybe during my rebuilding of the passenger side floor I accidently burnt part of the harness or some spatter got into the harness and causing wires to short against one another,I had most of the interior out..except dash and HVAc stuf. and had wiring covered with a sheet of this stuff we use at work to protect the robot and jig fixture wiring but even w all that sparks do get in places they shouldn't.I didn't weld very far up into the wheel well so if I did burn something it should only be in first ft or so of harness from the ECU.just a thought. my stock MAS was fine when I swapped in the 1st gen so hopefully it still is.

discovered sat eve the ground wire that screw into the lower mount for the ECU on the kick panel was loose.that was the primary problem of the wiring harness it seems.once started it ran crappy so I decided to swap around injector connectors.with just the primary it will barely run.had troublke w the primary injector before so no surprise,will sawp in my new set when get the weird issue fixed.I unplugged the primary and and it sputtered a bit then cleared up nice and ran pretty smooth on the secondary.with what supposed to be the injector clip for the secondary.Don't think I tried to start and run with the primary clip on the secondary...prob should have but I was running and I was excited and checking everything else I could think of while had it running.I did use the DVOM and checked the primnary clip while it was unplugged and had 12ish volts the whole time as obviously did the secondary.the secondary just clicking away as if it was supposed to.I posted about this weird issue last week and just now had chance to get back to car.I took a couple video clips of it running as I described and will try to post soon as can...they will prob explain better than words here.it would resopond fine on the secondary till 2500rpm then it would act like it it a rev limiter but if I floored it for a second it would then rev past the 2500.Shelby here suggested that a shorted out TPS could cause both injectors to fire all the time.,but its putting out voltage so even if not great it does still work I think.The car is an 88 5 speed.mostly stock except for a 1st gen MAS and bypass valve.I have a new nsd blaster 2 coil,new wires and plugs.its a new rebuild with only a few actual driven miles on it.when first fired it up last spring it ran great I I just had a clutch issue to fix,I recently discovered and fixed a leaking TB.had coolant being sucked into intake so now that's been eliminated from passing thru the TB. also at one point I had the key 'on' but the car not running/.both injectors connected and the primary was clicking.it had been running but I shut it off just didn't turn the key off.I tink it needs an exorcist/priest or something.lol

fabricating your best and likely only option.thats what I ended up doing on my 88 after no luck fining a good donor.had I found a good doner I would have just swapped all my engine and running gear to the better car anyway.I don't ave anything fancy for making panles just a couple ways to cut the metal cleanly and a flux core wire welder....and a good pile of attemps tat didn't quite fit.lol.I did make patters out of posterboard to test fit for cuts and bends then transferred that to some 20 and 22 ga sheet metal.tough almost all of the panel are unseen now wit the car back together I;m happy with how they turned out.and only really cost me time....LOTS of time.lots of trial and error and cut fingers.But I saved a cool nr from the scrapyard.

I read thru 6 pages and nada?can I have my 30 minutes back?...lol..jk...i'm not building a 1000hp monster either just want replacement for stock cracked and re-welded thing.lol.the EVO manifolds are very nice for sure but many of us are quite impatient and wanna see something for our cars or move on.

wicked looking engine bay.no rear water outlet on intake?don't guess it matters unless ya need heater or am I missing something.

what kind of fuel lines run from the fuel rail to each injector and how are you gonna keep the fuel lines on the injectors to prevent fuel leaks?just curious..very nice work btw.TEP offered or maybe still does a very similar conversion for the stock intake to MPI.I have a big TB off a ford 4.6 thunderchicken ive been saving for a mpi intake eventually.