1fly86TSi

HEY!! i own a civic! .. ok so the paint is definitly rice.. puttin a body kit on it.. well.. that just improves how it looks cause a 89 hatchback doesn't look that great stock.. as for speed.. why in the world would i want to give up the gas mileage!? rated 50 MPG highway and $24.80 has gotten me ABOUT 300 miles and my needle is STILL close to full! i didn't buy it to race it.. although the idea of a purely SHOW car does come to mind right now, and maybe Db drags. sides.. only mod's i'd do would be the skunk 2 manifold ( cheap as hell) with an MPFI swap header and catback ( also cheap) and crower 10.5:1 pistons with filed 10 over rings for a nice gapless seal.. one.. i don't drop very many MPG doing that and the car is a little more fun to drive.. no speed demon by any means, just more fun. and MAYBE i could actually get up a hill going 60 for once LOL as it stands.. to get over 90 i need to be going downhill, with a tail wind, and the hand of god giving me a push and the only thing i pass is a gas station anyway, nice product, not my prsonal taste, honestly, i always though these cars looked more like a stealth plane and would love to see a body kit that accentuated that.. even if it was a 6 peice ( front and rear quarters, and bumpers)

And oh yeah.. i even went and traded my rust bucket fallign to peices 78 camaro for a FREAKIN CIVIC! ( i HATE civic by the way) just so i dont' have to worrry about gas prices as much.. 42 rated city, 50 highway.. ( more like 45 highway and 38 city) But still Decent MPG numbers.. why the gas saver? simple.. saves me money from spending on gas so i can save up for my REAL cars.. AKA toys

OK, all i have to say is, Bush ran texas into debt, we then like idiots, Vote for him, he then takes the national Debt and set's new records FOR that debt. So yes.. Bush helped to put a definite dent in our economy. Not to mention the energy market ( oil in particular) manipulated the market to raise crude oil prices. And so what if a tanker got nailed by a sub!? Crude oil price is still dropping AND they raise the price cause of one tanker? Gee wish i could raise my labor rate cause of bad parts, and have happy customers. Problem is oil knows it can get away with it's BS cause we NEED it as most peopel NEED to drive to their place of work as it is miles away from their place of residence. Now not only did oil raise, the energy companies regarding electricity have paid back their loans to the government and now have the right to raise their prices, YAY! ANOTHER price leap in something that DOESN'T NEED to be raised, if this president where smart, he'd freeze prices at a decent level, to hell with petty whinery from big business, they made it before when their product was that price, so WHY couldn't they make it now? Not to mention the fact that all other product prices would drop to that freeze point. so that should make it even EASIER to get by, then introduce tax breaks for CREATING jobs. and introduce tax breaks for small business, liek home based start up business's, or local small shops, liek the old hardware shop, and wetnot. That is the ONLY way i see being able to recover from this DEPRESSION, as we are all beyond the recession point and in the beginning of a DEPRESSION. Besides.. he could always re-institute "Public Works" which is basically government provided jobs to the public, as that woudl also lower the unemployment rate, and increase consumer activity. Also.. NASA had it's space program funding slashed drastically, and in fact, it is one of the few government programs that actually MADE money and is still making money! here's an idea.. MAKE MORE MONEY MAKING GOVERNMENT PROGRAMS! that also provide jobs for the public! that's my .02

I'm not sure myself either, but for some reason i don't think the chassis electrical really changed much ( other then probably wire colors) from 86 to 88, i could be very wrong though. If someone knows and read's please correct if i am wrong.

OK, i'm pretty sure i'm going to need the chassis harness, and i'm looking to also get ahold of the underdash wiring as well ( including fusebox) and a headlight switch assembly as well. ANd sicne i've seen alot of people here with a wrecked starquest, i was hoping soem of you could provide me with these necessary parts. my car is a 1986 conquest TSi, and almost all of the engine bay wiring is shot since it caught on fire, this includes the chassis harness for the relays and such, i have pictures but i don't exactly know how to post them. infact, i also need a new brake reservoir cap, and wiper motor at the very least from what i could see. i'm not really looking for the engine harness since i'd like to convert to standalone, and i was plannign on using technologies DSM based harness swap.

my cousin is on an internship as an accountant and mentioned he was lookign at 100K a year when it was all said and done.. and to think.. i took college accountign courses in highschool and got a recap for service management in the automotive feild. Speaking of automotive feild.. it sucks, don't be a mechanic! unless your already one or really lucky and can get in at a dealership or well established franchise.. like Car X or somethin.. sadly.. round here, everyoen is losing there jobs.. over 800 peopel unemployed in the last month from pella windows and sauer danfoss ( carroll and ames area in iowa) so 800 peopel lookign for jobs in a 60 mile span.. NOT GOOD.

If your using a 86 as a baselien to test, i hope yours isn't as picky as mine was, i had the in dash gauge goign to 10-14 PSI but my aftermarket would onyl go to 5, anythign over that and the car did not liek to run properly, IE bucking, backfiring, ect.. luckily i found a pinhole leak in my manual boost controller after the first run and had it set after 2 more test runs. then it ran great for a month.. then the harness caught fire.. AFTER i parked it. *think my car is cursed*

well, the only thing the air can is good for is holding the K&N air filter i have on, so i'm fairly sure the filter has enough flow. the MAS might very well be the problem however. anyway, thanks guys for the help. now i just need to save my money and do an MPI conversion with a standalone EMS.

ok, solved the problem thanks to you guys, the accordian hose from the filter to the turbo was actually sucking in and collapsing infront of the compressor, just did a test run and safe boost for the fuel level with this turbo is approximately 5-7 pounds, so we are going to try and dial in the WG at 5 and i'm borowing the accordian tube off of my talon since i know it won't collapse. but MAN what a fun ride!!! i love my car again! also, for the exhuast i'm running 2.5 inch, from O2 housing down, with one 90 to a straight pipe and a magnum glasspack, it has a nice mellow bassy tone. my new problem is, i'm pushing oil out of my valve cover, and the catch can. but she runs like a top

ok, i just installed a used low miles engine in my 86 conquest, fired her up, found a spark problem, removed the ballast resistor, no more spark problem, now, the car runs good as long as i'm not trying to boost. i also sat down for about a hour reading through vacuum diagrams to figure out how to eliminate the egr and other things i don't need. so, i no longer have the EGR hooked up and the secondary air valve is removed. now, when i'm accelerating, the car accelerates very nicely, starts to hit the boost and pull then at about 3.5 to 4 grand, the boost completely falls off, and i start pulling about -2 PSI vacuum, after examining the car, we found that one of the hoses from the turbo to the intercooler would actually collapse when not in gear and with an engine rev, also when the boost falls off i hear a very high pitched whistle. i also found a leak from a rotted brake booster hose that i fixed but still no change. 3.5 to 4 grand , no boost. i also have the racetep OVCP with the turboXS BOV the turbo i'm using is a TDO5H B16G that is originally intended for the talon motors. that i had taken apart and realigned for easier installation and the holes in the turbine housing drilled out to fit over the studs. any help for this would be greatly appreciated.

let's see, you liek top end, but your in arkansas ( yuck) and probably won't be doing long runs, as everyone will be into the 1/4 mile type junk, i would go with the TDO5H 16G, it may nto be quite as efficient, but your setup should support it's 15 PSI (an efficient level for the turbo) and would be more then enough to rip some stuff to shreds with a PROPER tune. the GST being FWD with have traction issues, and trucks have low gearing making top end a bit of a problem, the TDO5H should give you streetability and race ability. the VW golf, 50 buck for dual forced induction i highly doubt he's tellign the truth, and intake temps with such a setup without correct supporting mod's if he is telling the truth, will mean he will be replacing his motor really soon and golf's are lightweight, however i think he's blowing smoke out his butthole, and more then likely will be an easy kill. as for other turbo DSM's, look out for AWD as they can rip just about anythign out of the hole with a proper driver, and are very easy to mod to get into the 13 second 1/4 traps.

Well... since your exhuast is 2.5 inches, could be lack of backpressure. Most cars with a larger then stock exhuast, that are modified in any way, will pop on decel, at higher RPM's and partial throttle, your burnign more of the fuel which is why you aren't popping as bad.

Good Luck, and bein a tech myself, i can agree that a bad MAS code could very easily cause the problem. also, make sure any air metering sensors, like Intake air temp, are within parameters as well ( i have an 86 that has an IAT, not sure if later models did or not) and also TEST THE O2!!!! if the O2 is malfunctioning your computer will stay in open loop as well since it can't get a signal. also, to reset your computer yourself you could just unhook the positive wire for 30 seconds, tune your MAF-t to a baseline around the stock MAS parameters and then work with it for a better tune and also test your GM MAF to make sure it is also working properly as ANY glitch in it's readings can pop up the code again.

check all your hose clamps from turbo to intercooler.

Thank you.

would it be possible that mitsu programmed the computers to give the vehicle "fuel cut" when the MAS reaches a certain variable reading as a safety to the engine precuation? that seems rather feesibleto me, of course, if you exceed the limit variable for the fuel cut, the computer would be forced to come up with the best it could for proper fuel mapping. BTW..i got the 86 puter...haven't ever tested limits, and don't want to.

I think 300 torque is also more reasonable then 300HP now i myself was once a newb to this place ( still am) and really had no knowledge on these cars, just general mechanical knowledge. and a result was not listenign to DAD with his infinite wisdom ( and the fact he owns a machine shop) now, i myself wouldn't mind acheiving 240HP and close to 300 torque as torque wins the races, HP wins the arguments. ( and i really want to go roadcourse racing) now, i bought my car beat to crap and performing WAY below subpar and STILL haven't figured out the spark break up at 5k. but now i got a used low miles motor going in and i'm also installing a boost gauge and a/f gauge. and my 16G turbo. and my next upgrades will probably be Walboro 255LP, intercooler and a gutted MAS since when i hook my MAS up it has a problem with dumping fuel. i should also probably upgrade to the 88/89 ECU and harness and go with a GM MAF i'll also be installing racetep's tokico gas shocks ( front and rear) coil over springs. i also have the racetep OVCP which i'm going to have to get new couplers for oh..by the way, Nice Buick Rivie

where'd you get your FMIC? did you just get a core and then had end tanks welded on? i seen alot of people runnign spearcos, also, what all did it take to install your aftermaket intercooler? what all did you have to remove to make it fit under the bumper?

well if the EMS acts anything like a normal stock SFI EMS then at WOT it will either fire in pairs or fire all of them at once. i own a SFI engined car ( 95 beretta Z26) somethign interesting at WOT on a injector waveform, it goes to bank style injection like the old MPI setups instead of staying sequential. however if it stays sequential, well, alot of tuning, also possible to get better fuel mileage with sequential over bank, or port style injection.

honestly i'd like sequential based injection or each one individually, so i guess for that i'd select sequential then? thanks for the info, being more awake right now it makes more sense.

i've downloaded the wintec 3.4.1 software and i've been playign with the wizard and other thigns without havign it hooked up, just oo i have a general idea of what to expect and how to change everything. Although in the wizard it gives a TBI option, a phased option, or a sequential option, and beign rather tired right now, looking at that the only thing popping in my head is "say what?" so to make these matters easier for me, would i used a sequential or phased base for the G54B?

well this post has been up for a week and onyl after i make my statement did anyone reply. The wiring for me won't be hard at all, as i'll removes the current harness and run any fusable links i need through the current fuse box in the car. as well as have everythign color coded for what goes where. i also already have heat shrink tube, solder and a solderign gun, all i need is a solid decision of my own on a programmable EMS, i've asked one person in particular what they are runnign and if coil packs came with it, as i want to get rid of my distributor, as he's told me what he has, i've researched it and may use the newer version instead, being the Tec3R, and purchase it through Racetep as they sell it with all required sensors and it is capable of sequential fuel injection instead or bank style injection. For Map, i already have a basic understandign of MAP sensors in relation of bar= psi as 1bar is ambient air pressure or 14.7 PSI at sea level, 2 bar is double 3 bar is triple and ect. i plan on using a 3 bar MAP as well as a wideband o2 sensor not to mention gettign used to the program used to tune it, and figuring it out. i've done alot of stuff myself, and i'm not afraid to do things myself, however if someone already has information and advice to give on it , i'd like that advice asd far as AF ratios i'm lookign to run, i'm plannign on having two different setups, one around 12-13:1 AF ratio and another aroudn 14 to 15 AF ratio as the latter will give me better fuel mileage. but hey, after it get's all wired up, i'll have to get a base tune down, and data log a few part throttle pulls and tune as is necissary, then go to a WOT pull and tune as necissary. but that's my idea, and what i want, and if i have to spend days doing it i will. and yes i also know i'll have to figure out timing advance in accordance to fuel ratio, and keep an eye on knock count.

so no oen has any input whatsoever at all? i find that funny considering this is ther MPI trial and tribulations forum, and several people are runnign MPI with different programmabel EMS and setupos. i'd have figured someone would have replied with their advice, or opinion, guess i was wrong. oh well, i'll just figure it out and wire it up the hard way then. and once i get a basic understanding and idea of how everythign works, i 'll remember NOT to ask anyone for help, and if i get a damn good tune going on, don't ask me for any of mine.

alright looking through it, i think i've decided on megasquirt 2 with PCB 3.0, and i've found a place onlien that sells it fully assembled, and has the wiring components that would make it easier. now all i need to know is where did you get your crank trigger wheel? and what tooth is it, as well as how did you get it to recognize TDC? also, i seen on the sight something about HEI coil drivers that could be used for a COP or coil on plug ignition system, anyoen runnign this? how woudl you wire it in to the EMS? also any modification from the base unit required for runnign a ford Edis system? i've done my fair share of computer stuff, but nothing so much extened into it as assembly of electronics compoinents into a main board., just installign CPU's RAM, hard drives, video graphics cards, and that like.

Well all, after i get the rebuild done, and since i know my car is running richer then bill gates. I'm thinkign abotu going to MPI conversion. I'm not sure of which EMS to run, or which EMS will give me the ability to also go to distributorless ignition and adjust advancement/retard as needed, alogn with injector puls width control. however so far i'm looking at SDS, Haltech, or the tec3r system. my question is what all machining would this require to have DIS and MPI? i also know i want to use a modified magna intake manifold with probably a 70 MM mustang TB. SO what EMS should i use? and those who already converted, how hard was it to wire in the new EMS and retain your stock dash sensors and such? Also i know i'd like an EMS that i can program fuel values accordign to intake air temp, as opposed to ambient, as well as intake pressure, along with RPM. as well as adjust the EDIS accordign to RPM and manifold pressure/knock. Any EMS allow this that is available for the starquest?