Chad

What? he's logging into your accounts and editing your posts?

If you were alive 70 years ago, I bet you'd be complainnig about the advent of automatic transmissions too. If you were alive a hundered years ago, I'd bet youl would be complaining about the advent of powered windshiled wipers. Prior to that, they were hand opperated wtih a lever inside the car. Imagine the skill required to drive without that upgrade we drive our cars faster and further now than ever before, yet our auto crash death rate continues to decline every year, despite the increased demands on the river (distractions, traffic density, etc). It's obvious these safety features are doing something, I'd agrue it's a good thing, I guess you would disagree?

I don't think this kind of posting is helping anyone, do you? Ad Hominem "is an attempt to negate the truth of a claim by pointing out a negative characteristic or belief of the person supporting it. Ad hominem reasoning is normally described as a logical fallacy.[" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ad_hominem

grounding problems can cause this. copper service lines often get pitted and eroded when there is a constant current run though them to equalize a ground plain issue in the area around your home [if your own ground is poorly made or not in a conductive soil]. might also be the PH of the soil, or dog piss.

a metal that flexes is going to get hot, yield or no yield. Yield grealty increases the heat generated, but yield is not the only source of heat. I too agree, they are a lot of bang for the buck.

So there is one victim [i'm sorry man]. Those that got banned were not "customers", and none were perma-banned. several were later banned for other reasons later on [extremeboost come to mind anyone?], some have been suspended a dozen times for a dozen reasons, seems that these "banned" members had issues themselves, not issue with the DOHC topic. For what it's worth, there are only 5 or 6 members that are perma banned at the moment [excluding fake members, spam bots, and alias ID's].

got any steep hills where you live Bill? I've seen the tach not move while at full boost. Using a boost gage to measure oil pump performance is like measuring your weight loss/gain by looking at your weekly grocery bill. they can be related, but aren't always. ever run a stock oil gage next to a real one at the same time? once you do, you'll never look at the stock gage again.

I have a copy of that 87 edition, maybe I'll bring it to work some day to color scan it.

bend some metal back and fourth a few doszzen times, then feel it's nice and warm where it was being bent. Internal friction in the bent metal. You think there is any friction in a spring being bent a few thousand times a minute? If anything, the hot engine oil is cooling the springs down.

It's alleged, because the market it was sold in has very few english speakers, and none of those people have ever been seen on this or any other english speaking forum. I know the first Nissan skyline GTR was made in the late 60's, but I've never seen one of those either. Have you? You find a manual steering starion, and you can reverse engineer it and compare it's steering system to the manual. When we say it's just an alleged option, it's cause none of us have seen it.

so exactly who lost money on that DOHC thing? I've never heard of one single person. Not one. Perhaps a few contributed a few bucks, but for all the drama, there should be a big long list. Don't you think so? I think this theory about lost money tracks back to another vendor that wanted to create some self-serving drama to detract from their own misdealings. I wont' start any wars here, but this other vendor has since fallen out of favor themselves Consider your source

that is very close to what I have, very close. I have pulled i tup to about 22 PSI too, no spark knock. I did find my spark knock threshold, and backed off 4*. that surge in power and lowering of EGT's means you have moved in the right direction with this change. the most my car will ever see in timing is at high RPM full decel (in a vacuum state), that's about 35*. I'd say you are where you need to be now. Did your AFR's change? they can since you are nolonger sending unburnt fuel into the exhaust (cause it's getting lit sooner). that is why the reduction in power, and higher EGT's with excessively retarded timing, the burn is still happening cause it was started too late. you want to light it off as early as possible for good EGT's and effency/power. you want to approach the detonation limits (spark knock) but not reach it. The timing is pulled out as you raise the manifold pressure because the detonation risk increases. You may want to play with the timing in the manifold pressure realm, add a little more timing on boost to see if the EGT's go down some more. Don't go above about 15 PSI for this experiment. If the build and AFR's are exaclty right, you really don't need to pull any timing at all, and you will see good EGT's and tons of power. If EGT's starto goign up, you probalby ahd it right before. Too much timign can also cause exces EGT's. Now that that you have corrected your timing you may remove some fuel, lean it out just a little. This can actualy reduce EGT's if you are runnign too rich, because that excess fuel gets burnt in the manifold. you may dred havin got revisit the fuel maps, but they were built on a bad timing map. you gotta get the timing right first. This may be more eaily done if you raise your baseline a few more, then take it back out in the boost realm, that is how I have mine setup. makes the motor very responsive off boost, but still safe on boost.

adjust your scale so you are at full timing (32*-35*) by about 3250-3500 RPM. Listen for spark knock, if you hear that, back off a few degrees. Mine is more aggressive than that and I don't get spark knock, but others have with my timing curve, depends on the setup. I have the same SDS system. You can run more idle/cruise timing too as long as you use good gas and don't let it sit a lot. That will make is more responsive.

you are either lean or cam/timing is off a little. It's not off by a lot, but that is hotter than I've seen with other setups that I've tuned. At idle I've seen a couple hundered less than that.

I wouldn't trust the stock gage, do you have an aftermarket one? The stocker is very slow to respond, it won't show you cavitation or air bubbles as already stated. The pan is pretty close to the pickup, you just cut that distance in half, or worse. yes, i'm sure it shows good pressure, but what about in an extended corner or heavy bump, that little ring is there for a reason, and it cant quite do it's job now. it only takes a little problem in the pickup side of the oiling system to = bad things. better safe than sorry. Do you like gambling? Will you get away with it? probably. but if not....

shouldn't be too hard to figure out, try turning the shaft, and see how many it takes to move 90*, then multiply by 4

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=stats&do=leaders It's at the bootom of the main forum page When did this start? Are you sure it's a mod?

so the little one always has to push past the big one, and the big one has a small one between it and the motor at all times? Doesnt' sound like exhaust efficiency to me. I suppose it works, but seems like a better single turbo could be choosen to do the same job, without all the thermal losses, friction, and moving parts.

I do not approve of this modification.

So you are going to use the 18g to replace the other missing 8 cylinders that you motor doesn't have? That big turbo needs exhaust flow to opperate, where will it come from if you divert some of it to the 18g? staged turbos are used to help spool turbos that would otherwise be laggy, not to spool a turbo that is simply too large to -ever- spool up.

If you use the stock steel water pipe that feeds the heater core and the bottom of the stock intake, you can connect the rear intake port to that pipe, that keeps water flow constant at the back of the head, even when the stat is closed. The front stat housing is an acceptable place to put the CTS, but only if the sensor is very close to the head. you cann't do that if you use a remote stat. the CTS needs a good clear shot at the coolant in the front of the motor, so mounting it 6-8 " away from the head and it won't circulate a propper temp till the stat opens.

no one has ever found one state side, though it was supposedly an option (stripped base model) overseas. These stripped models supposedly even had hand crank windows and a solid rear axle. By changing the ratio from quick (14.25:1) to slow (21.2:1) ratio steering, the tortional strain on the coupler was retained at a realitivly low level. The ratio of the box dictates the loading on the coupler more than anything.

there is a pump prime feature on all these cars, there is a plug over by the MAS that if you short 2 leads, you activate the puel pump relay and the pump stays on as long as that connecton is closed. No need to do anything else.

If you "read it already", you don't need a link. If an unmodified car can have a fuel leak, then obviously the stock design is susceptable, proceed with the ultimate in care. There is the infamous TEP customer in So.Cal, I had customer that had a small fire on the Dyno cause he used old dried out Orings on the MPI that I built from scratch. There are many, many others. I've been here for 14 years, and I've been making custom parts for these cars for 12. I've forgetten them all. Your price is unbetable, but given all the inclusions in the weld, I'm concerned, and so are a few others. TIG welds can and will leak if there is poor penetration or contamination. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/pportuese/45c9c195.jpg Those pliers in the injector bore is a real bad idea, you realize that is where 90% of all these cars fuel woes comes from? dried out old O-rings that don't seal well to that surface, or get sucffed on sharp rough edges when they are installed. Even a small scratch in that bore is enough to cause a slow leak. I once had to buy a new OEM fuel rail cause mine corroded when the car sat for a year with no fuel in it. I was never able to get it to seal again. the new one had an almost mirror polish inside. You are offering a prototype, we are offering advice that may yield a better finnished product. You are welcome.

I don't see how Shelby is wrong, you say so yourself. It's a touchy subject cause people here really have burnt their cars down modifying their fuel systems with unproven modifications, more than one. And yes, this criticisim is meant to be constructive. If it were negitive, this topic would be going very differently. This is being offered as a performance modification, but there is no performace to be gained. You can't get enough fuel to flow throguh two inejctors to exceed the limits of the stock fuel lines, just look at the openings of the injector nozzel tips and tell me a bigger supply hose and elimination of the bango bolt is really needed. there are banjo bolts on the bottom of the fuel filter, and at the fuel pump too. It's a vanity modification. Keep at it, don't get discouraged.