jaybrew

ttt

1992 Dodge dakota with a built 318 engine. Forged crank and ross blower pistons. 14K on the motor and Transmission rebuild. Trans is an auto that has been race built with a hughes 2800 stall. The truck has a msd ignition system with accel coil (new), and boost retard in cab. Upgraded injectors and reflashed computer round out the fuel upgrades. The supercharger is a vortech s-trim. The rearend is 3.73 geared with a mopar posi. The exterior of the truck has a billet grill, custom lower airdam, flush mount tonneau cover, a bedrug, rear rollpan, and billet speciallty wheels. The pait is newer but not great. The truck also has a race weight cowl hood. It is a well built truck but could use some tlc. Lots was left out, and you should see it in person. I would consider trades of equal value, trades for a DD plus cash. Asking $5800 obo

Have built a d50 that is a one wheel wonder. Through the research i have done, the lsd rearend from montero will interchange with the truck parts. I know the ring and pinion from the montero will go in our conquest rears, so i want to know, will the starion chunk go into the d50 housings?

my first statement was directed towards the guy who wants to hunt mustangs. Most (95%) of stangs are bone a** stock and they will race anybody who pulls up on them. They are usually the ultimate ricer. But all cars have a fast version. I have seen a 7 second chevette. The ratio of fast to slow mustangs is the same as other cars. There are millions of mustangs so of course there will be fast ones. The point is not to poke my finger in the chest of people who know how to make cars fast, but the other 5 million owners who think they know what fast is. Just like calling civics slow. Yes there are 9 second civics, but for the most part those cars wont run a 18 in the quarter.

Possible the knock sensor is kicking in and going to limp home mode?

I mostly agree with indiana. If you have dealt with this problem since the motor was built i would lean towards rings not seating. I have ran cars with and without stock oil seperators. Neither way seemed to keep an engine running longer or stronger. I have tried in tuning programs to make a car smoke by making it too rick, it takes a poo load of fuel. The fuel you are smelling is from your bov. You must realize that your car's injectors are controlled by sensors and mainly the mas. When in boost, and you let off the pedal, you BOV opens up and lets out the metered air that went through your mas and your injectors will still fire because the air was already accounted for. That is the smell most of the time. The air will escape until your BOV sees vacuum. The smoke is likely oil, even if you dont see it on the dipstick. If your a/f gauge reads lean replace your oxygen sensor. Sorry for the bad news.

Car is located in lubbock,tx

It could be a couple simple things but, I need money to go back to school. May have to part with more projects than just this one. This one is just the first to go. Thanks for your input

I have up for sale my 1986 omni... I got this car a year ago from a local car guy who thought he had a bad bottom end. I did some wireing work and fixed up some vacuum lines as well as a head gasket. All and all the car is in good shape for the age. I would like to get $2900 for the car. It is a GLHS clone. It is pretty quick and that is why i had to put drag radials on the front just to keep it from spinning through the first three gears. I am going back to school and need the money worse than the car. Recently the car started smoking under high boost, so i replaced the head. Now the car smokes all the time so i assume the head i put on is no good. I am open to all offers. I can send interested parties any pics they need. http://img35.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=cimg0091v.jpg T2 motor 3" Mandrel Bent Exhaust with Polished Truck tip (Great Non-rice Sound) Mopar Performance head gasket (200 miles) new head bolts new gaskets on top side 52mm throttle body boost controller (15 lbs) BFG drag radials (700 miles... flame pattern) 4 point roll bar (not installed) Autometer tach with shift light oil pressure, water temp, boost gauge Air to water intercooler setup with ford cobra pump air to water heat exchanger (not installed) A/c delete, new map, new o2 sensors, oil pan gasket Aftermarket fan controller and fan +40 injectors (not installed) new cap, rotor, wires, plugs Rear mount battery Toyota Celica Seats (late model) Dark tint windows 555 Trans (Shift Very nice) Late model Dodge Radio w/cd (volume knob a little slow)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170417854565

Pics to brewer_82@yahoo.com Surely you know if this is a rare option they are worth more. If you dont care... i call dibs pending seeing pics

a civic kill... nice job... if you drove a mustang...

Mustangs are slow... There is no secret to going fast... add power and lose weight. A 300hp quest is a fast car.

LMAO...Turbo Turbo Turbo!!! This one only... and only every other one built!!! This comes with the not so SOUGHT AFTER leather seats! AND WHO COULD FORGET non- INTERCOOLED! The super rare options that your car came with... but THEY ARE THE SAME IN MY CAR. Seriously though, Someone buy this before he embarrass himself anymore!

I was building a 4g63/a904 conquest. When i traded off the project I had just had the trans done. I did 727 manual valve body with trans brake, and a 5000 stall. The baby case 904 is the only one i know of the will bolt to the 4g. I research all my options at the time and elected to run that trans instead of doing an adapter plate. I was shooting for 1000hp. The turbo was a 372BW and has proven to be streetable to some people If you are interest in the a904, I may be able to supply you with a useable unit. PM me if you are interested. Good luck with your build.