wasabii

Put me down for a 3 hole design. I'll pick it up at our next meet in Monterrey. Mitchell.

I've craving to try that out - you're talking about HPDE right? Can't afford it right now though, so I'm going to do some Autocrossing for now and start getting used to pushing the car to its limits etc... That way, hopefully I can take full advantage of the HPDE when I finally do go there. Let me know how it went and take lots of pictures. By the way, the same Autocross is also happening this weekend and I might be going there myself... Later, Mitchell.

Hey JP, You gonna make it to the autocross meet with your BMW? It should provide some stiff competition to our cars given it's suspension mods. Mitchell.

Looking good. Keep up the good work . 8) Mitchell.

There are a couple of guides here already. Here's a good one I used when I first started. http://www.antimpower.com/Modification%20Guide/index.htm Good luck. Mitchell.

Just take it easy man and your hard work will pay off, shoot, it's paying off already ! Feel free to stop by even if your car is not working and get to meet and hang out with other Starquesters in the area. Later, Mitchell.

Congrats on getting the car running! Must feel good to see all your hard work finally paying off 8) . We're having a NorCal SQ meet on Oct 15th (check the StarQuest Meet Planner) and we would love to checkout your car there and hang out. Think you might be able to swing over? Later, Mitchell.

Hey Oscar, Can you confirm that the plates allow to adjust both camber and caster? I know that it looks like it has a 45 degree angle, but if you look at the installation bolt pattern, the rails are actually perpendicular. Let us know. Thanks. Mitchell.

Lolol. Someone got owned lol.

Who made the short shifter? Mitchell.

What kind of bends will the exhaust and hard pipes have? Crushed or Mandrel? If the bends are mandrel bends, count me in for a set of hard pipes. Mitchell

Damn, for 3 grand I'd be all over this. Too bad I'm in Cali. Someone, grab this deal while it's hot. You can make an easy $1500+ buy parting it out or even better yet, finish building it and you'll have one sweet ride. Mitchell.

Do you have the intake boot? If yes, how much shipped to 94577. Mitchell.

Let me give you a step by step on how I did it. Hardware used: 2 2"x1/2"x1/8" flat aluminum or steel (to make bracket) 1 4"x3/8" bolt (for new alternator) 12 3/8" washers (for new alternator bolt) 12 5/16" washers (for old alternator bolt) Old alternator bolt Prepare Brackets: Drill a 3/8" hole on one end of each bracket Drill a 5/16" hole on the other end of each bracket One end will receive the new alternator bolt, the other end will receive the old alternator bolt. Remove the old alternator: Disconnect Negative cable from battery Loosen alternator belt tensioner Remote belt Remove top and bottom alternator bolts Turn alternator around and remove positive cable and connector Remove Alternator Install the new alternator: Wire up the pigtail connector (see Art's instructions). -S (RED) -> connect to the factory THICK white wire -F -L (Brown with red line) -> connect to the factory THIN white wire -P Bolt down factory positive cable. Place the alternator in position and install the top bolt only. Assemble one bracket and the two bolts. Get under the car and slide the bracket into position on the front of the alternator. You will notice that there is a gap between the bracket and the timing cover. You need to fill in that gap with the 5/16" washers. Once the bracket is squared up on both the alternator and the timing cover, slide on the 2nd bracket to the back of the alternator. Here, there will be a gap between the bracket and the alternator that you fill in with the 3/8" washers. Once the rear bracket is squared up, install the nuts on each bolt and tighten them down lightly. Install the alternator belt. Adjust the belt tensioner. Tighten all 3 alternator bolts. Reconnect battery. Start her up. Let me know if I am missing anything Mitchell.

Just installed the GM 110v alternator. The install is not difficult at all. Art's pictures and instructions are all that you need. Thanks. Took me a bit longer than 10min though :wink: , more like a few hours. The guy that sells the alternator is familiar with our cars and knows what we need. Give him a call and he'll hook you up. Going to install my amp and speakers now and see what this alt can do . Later, Mitchell.

Thanks for the replies guys. So, I definitely need camber plates with Eibach springs. Now, I've been doing some initial research on suspension mods and read somewhere that lowering a car too much might mess up the suspension geometry which cancels out the advantages of lowering the car in the first place. In your experience, especially if you're into road racing / auto cross, do the Eiback springs lower the car too much? If so, what alternatives do I have? Can I find stiffer springs that maintain the same car height? Or will I have to go with a fully adustable coil-over setup, which I want to avoid because of cost and since I will only be racing the car occasionally and will use it mostly as a daily driver. Thanks for the feedback. Mitchell.

Hey man, keep the car if you can. All that hard work and money - you deserve to see and enjoy the car when it's done. Mitchell.

How much for the Stebandi front strut brace and camber plates. Also, do you also have the ST sway bar set? Mitchell.

Just as the subject states, do I need front camber plates with Eibach Springs? I am planning on installing ST sway bars, front and rear strut tower bars and Eibach springs and I wanted to know if I also needed to install front and rear camber plates in order to keep the suspension within reasonable specs and avoid uneven tire wear. I noticed that some are using a similar setup with just rear camber plates and I just wanted to confirm that this did not create any problems. Thanks. Mitchell.

SOLD

By the core i meant the part where the cooling fins are. That part is only 21in and that's where the fans need to be. You are right about fitting a 12 and a 10 though. That might just work. I don't think that you're too paranoid, I don't think that our cars should be getting to 210 at any time. Mitchell.

So even with the shrouded 16in, that's not enough... I looked at dual fan setups from Flex-a-lite, but the ones they had would not fit the tight space between the rad and the pump. I guess that i could buy 2 x 12in fans and build a custom shroud... Actually, I would have to use 2 x 10in fans, my radiator's core is only 21in wide. That seems that the best option... hum... Thanks for the feedback. Mitchell.

Ok, here an update. I got my griffin radiator in, (same on as Art's) and ordered a 16in ProComp fan from Ebay. That fan was a few mm away from the water pump and I was concerned that it might get damaged by the engine movement. So, I returned the 16in fan and bought a 14in instead. The fan fit nicely, but Art was right, it was not enough to cool down the car as the temps rose to about 200 degrees driving normally. Since I needed to get the car going for MOD06, I bought another 14in pusher fan from a local performance store and installed it on the radiator diagonally from the puller fan. That kept my temps around 190. On my way to LA, on a hot hot day, I pushed the car uphill full boost and kept the temps under 210 degrees (that's about 1/2 way in the stock gauges). I just replaced my coolant for some water wetter and will test the car out again this weekend. I hope to keep the temps under 190 on full boost on a hot day. May need to upgrade to a Flex-a-lite Trimline 16in puller fan and hope that it fits. What do you guys think? Do these temps seem normal to you? Mitchell.

I got mine from Shawn. http://mysite.verizon.net/Bsfrederick/stru.../strut_bars.htm Very happy with it. wasabii

I'll have a quote for you today. Mitchell.