iminhell

This was a project I undertook last summer to aid with stripping my Mustang. Works very well and well worth my time invested in building it. I'd assume any guy doing an automotive restore or just wanting to clean up a few parts now and again will find it quite useful. The parts will vary by what you use as the holding tank/pressure vessel so I won't get into the part numbers for fittings. I'm just going to run through the basics and hope you will be able to figure the rest out. First thing you'll need is a tank. Mine is built from an old air compressor tank, roughly 40 gallon tank: http://lh3.ggpht.com/_L4kEJfLxoIg/ShMod_VYI-I/AAAAAAAAAC8/Q5SpJNonzLE/s144/100_1379.jpg From Sandblaster Now you want a tank that has at least 3 holes in it. One to fill the tank with the media, 1 for the pressure fitting and one for the media to flow out of. If your tank does not have enough you can always drill a hole and weld or have someone weld a fitting on the tank. You will need some type of adjustable valve to regulate the media to air mixture. I choose a swing ball valve style but any type will do just fine. This needs to be T'd in line with the incoming pressure to the tank, you do not want media getting into the valve. So keeping it high on the tank is a wise move. http://lh3.ggpht.com/_L4kEJfLxoIg/ShMoe6FgefI/AAAAAAAAADE/-69cbW6fFUU/s144/100_1381.jpg From Sandblaster You will have to T the line from the valve into the output of the media side of the tank (bottom). It's easiest to think of this as a rudimentary mixing valve, because that is what will take place here. http://lh3.ggpht.com/_L4kEJfLxoIg/ShMoeaa2PcI/AAAAAAAAADA/IF9ujjpcvJk/s144/100_1380.jpg From Sandblaster So all we have left is something to control the flow of media to the atmosphere. For this the best choice is what is referred to as a deadman's valve. http://lh5.ggpht.com/_L4kEJfLxoIg/ShMofnOvmbI/AAAAAAAAADM/owtktujIG5k/s144/100_1383.jpg From Sandblaster I bought this one from Northern Tool and Supply for about $35 (unfortunately I cannot find it on their web site). A similar type can be found here for a conservative price (though I have no clue on the quality of the product). Everything on mine is 12" inner diameter, but like I said earlier this all depends on your choice of tank. You can get up to 1" nozzles, parts etc but I would say that is more for the industrial and not really a home based user size. The first hose I had purchased is the clear type pictured. It was cheap, roughly $0.65 per foot (I bought 20 feet). I am trying a Goodyear hose now that cost me $1.20 per foot (I bought 25 feet). I am trying to not spend the almost $6 per foot for the proper sand blasting hose, but my guess is I'll eventually have to. If you notice I have a jerry rigged way of pressurizing the tank, simple air fitting with a male to male adapter. I would advise against this. Reason being when the tank is pressurized the only way I have to depressurize it is by sticking the fitting in and letting all the air out. With a full tank at 120psi this is a lot that can go wrong and cause serious injury. I would advise using a pressure relief valve similar to what is found on an air compressor. This way all you have to do is pull up and let the pressure bleed out and there is no danger of a flying air fitting. Since we are on the safety subject. Never under any circumstance take any cap or fitting off the tank while it is pressurized. Most people do not realize how much force there can be behind air pressure. I can tell you this much, while playing with another tank that was pressurized to roughly 60psi I took a 3/8" cap off the tank and that cap embedded nearly a foot into the ground along with making a 8" diameter hole. Not something you want any body part to get in the way of. Always ware a breathing mask of some type, there will be lots of dust. I'd advise to ware a face shield over safety glasses because rocks to the face really sting. If you need any help just let me know. Hope you have fun with it. :thumbsup:

Gotcha covered (not my email either, it's one of the local radio DJ's) http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m128/omfgspecialed/drugdeal.jpg

Like this? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/frozenrice/vteccontainer-1.jpg

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=U...mp;t=k&z=14 Didn't see it mentioned yet. I found it quite amusing.

I seem to remember some else in this thread having that same flooding issue I sold mine, still like to fiddle with them though.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/DarkDB1/garbagelz5.jpg :rofl3:

I was lucky enough to ride in it and work a little on it Seriously nice machine. Power is unbelievably smooth.

When everyone has had their fill I'll come pick up the rest. I want the doors and parts of the rear 1/4's. But I don't want to see anything being wet so give it time, I'm in no hurry.

I see no pictures, :cry: :cry: :cry:

I didn't even know this section of SQC existed. Very nice work man. Keep it up.

A month and nothing.

I have been trying to get ahold of Tim, to no avail. I want a Franken Banshee, or at least a price on the thing . . .

Here is the 3390 from Grant: http://www.grantproducts.com/images/prod/3158-4599.jpg Here is what I have been using: http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d120/iminhell/100_0457.jpg I don't remember what the hell we did to get the Grant GT to work but looking at it now it seems very unsafe. Anyways, my question is - Does the 3390 install kit move the wheel far enough away from the turn and wiper levers? (so my fingers won't turn the blinkers on for every corner)

ya that thing. whatever it is called. the part that goes onto the block and the cooler lines go into it.

Oil cooler adapter/filter adapter for sale? If so dibs. Let me know and I'll pm an offer.

payment sent. ty for the pm, I would have forgot otherwise. If it does not go through let me know. With changing ISP's I have a bunch of stuff to update and things are going wrong daily. John Ruschmeyer

If there is room, please add me. I won't need anything until spring, no rush. John

Please don't call it "Members Only". I know our cars where produced during the '80's and so where the Members Only jackets, but c'mon. Which one do you really want to remember? And do we really what the 2 to be associated together? (oops I just ruined the second one :roll: ) John crap, sully's pic just loaded (damn dial-up)

I will take spot #1, for 1 set. Do I pay now . . . or wait untill everyone is in and get a discounted price? Please contact me through PM as I will not have as much computer time over the next couple weeks (that way I know what I have to do instead of meandering about the web, ty) John

I have a buddy who wants to put the SQ wheels on a '74 (I think) Dart. I don't know if they actually fit, but I said I'd look around for him. So . . . Leave an email where you can be contacted and what rim's you have available (full sets are probally best). I will relay the info to him and leave him to decide what to do (and hope he contacts you). Thanks John

Need to know if you've got any sets still? I also need an email address for you, I am looking for rims for a friend and really don't feel like being the "in between guy". John

I just had a guy from near the Branierd area call me the last few days. He says he has 4 cars he wants to get rid of. We have been playing phone tag over the last couple days. If he is a member of this site and has what your looking for I will throw his phone # your way and let him know I found someone else looking for cars. John

Another one: http://home.insightbb.com/~starion-conquest/gauge.htm

Huh, I didn't even know there was a stereo section on here, :roll: . I post this on any stereo board I find. I am looking for old Pioneer Premier ODR parts. Broke or not does not matter. I don't want the drivers, just the electronics and accompaning wireing. Probally the wrong place to post this but oh well. John

Injectors - are they (where they) working well and the stock ones from the '89? If so I'd like to deal on them. Maybe buy all 4, if I can get a deal on the lot. John