vilification

Its from Dawes Devices.

I put up instructions on my site finally. ECU Temperature sensor MOD. http://home.rochester.rr.com/vilification/main.htm Hope this helps all of you willing to try it.

Hey this is a cut and paste from my website !! At least credit me. : ) I changed my 10k pot for my fuel cut to an adjuster for my temp sensor as well. It allows me to run it richer if I choose but a side effect is that the car idles higher (like its cold) The values you want are not 10k to 0, you really want 3000 to 300. I've put some resistors on on it and it seems to work good. I need to make a schematic for it and put it on my site. Right now my low value is 330 ohms. I was thinking of trying to lower it with a file (filing the resistor) to see if a "hot" car will lean it out a little.

Andy, you’re right. I was thinking about it a while back as well, but seeing your setup at the meet prompted me to get off my butt and put it together. I forget where it was the first time I heard of it, probably somewhere on the forum. But yours was truly the first I've seen. Yours was definitely my inspiration and you do deserve the credit.

Works great so far. I imagine you could use the stock ones for sure. Should be same thing really. All I did was try blowing through it to see if it was on or off without voltage applied. The one I bought was normally closed up. I guess thats good. In case of an electrical problem I wouldnt be stuck at stock boost.

I took a trip to my local salvage yard and got a 12V Solenoid valve out of a 92 Eclipse. Heres what I did with it... http://home.rochester.rr.com/vilification/dualmode.htm I can now run stock PSI or flip a switch for High PSI.

This whole setup is very similar to my setup, but I used a pipe that didnt require alot of cutting. I am still using my Stock Mas with a 1G K&N filter setup. http://home.rochester.rr.com/vilification/1genair.htm

I have an 86. I gathered all the info I could scrape together and could not get the 1G MAS to work on an 86. It was hooked up correctly but it ran horribly. I wasnt receiving an error code either. Without having a 1G DSM manual to double check my connections, I still cant verify it was 100% correct. But the fact I wasnt getting a MAS error leads me to beleive it was as best as it could be. I just put the old MAS on the 1G lid with the 1G K&N filter. It still gets way more air than stock, but now I am exploring another avenue to get a tad more unmetered air into the intake. I will document this later once the snow melts off my car. Cant wait for summer already and its not even past Xmas. Uhhg.

Here is the package that I found in my local auto store. Its a simple clamshell package usually found hanging with all the other light sockets and similar stuff. http://home.rochester.rr.com/vilification/Pictures/85850.jpg

DoomID, Its probably in the FAQ. Hey tmendeol, good to see someone dug my page. Glad you put the info to good use. Its nice to know its worth my while to document my trials and tribulations. Did you use the Civic reducer or did you find a good silicone one that actually fits? I'm still waiting for mine in the mail. Send me a pic if you got it, I'd love to see how it turned out. : )

I cover that here. http://home.rochester.rr.com/vilification/wiring.htm You'll need to place the pot inline to the wire going to the ECU. I cover this for an 86 only. Not sure on the 87. The 88, 89 years had a higher cut anyway. The pot alone will only allow you to run 13 to 14 psi. A resistor along with the pot should allow you to achive higher values. At that point you better have a bigger turbo and should probably get an 88-89 ECU. 13 psi on a stock turbo is fine for me. I spent $2.50 to go from 7psi to 13 psi. Thats a good deal.

Actually, I thought of it a few weeks back when I was asking about the benefits of hard pipes over the stock hoses. The only answer I really got was that hard pipes dont blow up like balloons. I thought to myself, how can I keep these from blowing up like a balloon? Tywraps. Perfect. Thats how the idea was born. No idea what to call it. Maybe something like, the anti-hose expansion mod, or the over-inflated rubber hose containment mod. In any case, this should keep them from blowing up and stretching out. Not that its making all that much difference, but it sure looks spiffy. I beleive the real difference between the hard pipes and rubber hoses is the diameter. You'd get much better airflow from a larger diameter tube. Maybe someday I'll make a kit with mandrel bent tubing and couplers, but for now, tywraps keep the expansion at bay. BTW, I like your intake tube. Very cool. Glad to see I wasnt the first person to put the Honda pipe to good use. I am waiting for a 3 inch "T" coupler that I am going to use for an additional air filter. This will increase the unmetered air quite a bit. I'll need to keep an eye on the A/F meter though. Who knows if I'll be able to fit it all in the engine compartment anyway. We'll see.

I did my "Cat Run" air intake system before seeing a 1G air filter from K&N. Now THATS what I've been looking for. So I decided to remove the ugly "Cat Run" system. I still kept the Civic intake tube and just updated to a 1G Air Can lid. This mod can also accomodate a 1G MAS (obviously). I kept my 86's MAS because of issues I encountered with wiring it up. Click "1st generation Eclipse air filter MOD" http://home.rochester.rr.com/vilification/main.htm

You should post this in the Virtual Machanic section. This section is more of a "look what I did", not "How do I ?" You'll have better luck there.

My small bit of the web... http://home.rochester.rr.com/vilification/

Whats the best way to get readings from your IC ? (digital readout ?) Did you guys install permanent gauges ? Do you check before and after the IC ? Do you ever check it right at the TB intake ?

Its kind of funny, because when I got the car, I couldnt rev over 3000rpm without it choking and sputtering. First thing I did was cut a hole in the air can. After that I could actually get it up to 4000rpm. (fuel cut was kicking in at that point) Helping it breathe was a HUGE help. I did however remove the tube that went to the top of the oil sperator. I just trimmed it and left it attached to the oil seperator with a peice of "breather fuzz" stuck in the end of it. Now I have it hooked back to the intake via that turbo intake tube. Thats the red hose you'll see in the pitures. I had to remount the oil sperator because my can is gone now. Right now all it does is vent the crank case because I put a breather filter on the valve cover. The other hose on the intake tube is going to the charcoal filter like you mentioned.

I had my MAS out of the car but didnt notice all that much improvement. Maybe it was because I did it a while back before the BOV and OVC pipe. As far as being able to disable it, I'm not sure. I didnt like my gas mileage with it out. It ran rich all the time. I know there are ways of opening up the MAS a little. I read about it someplace in the forums. If I were you I would probably just open up the air can as much as possible and leave the MAS in place. If you want to try disabling it, I bet a new(older) 86 ECU would do the trick. But youve probably already heard that before. Sorry Bro, I wish I knew how to do that for you. But I'm not really sure.

Whats the stock temp sensor activate at? 180 I think. I actually did something similar to what you did. I unplugged both wires from their respective sensors, and then spliced them together. After that I fed them into the center pole on a 2 position/3 pole switch. This way I have one of the outside poles connecting to ground. (so they can run when the car is on) And the other I have leading back to the 180 sensor (so it comes on when it hits 180 degrees) All it does is give me the ability to toggle between "on all the time", and "on at 180". I mounted the switch bracket on the grounding bolt for the fans right under the radiator cap. I guess I didnt feel the need to do this from inside the car.

I think we all have a "finish my car quicker" fund. Although I have yet to find anyone other than my credit card company to contribute. <grin>

I completely removed the Aircan from my car by using some old "Cat-run" cable. It breathes much better now. Click link for Pics http://home.rochester.rr.com/vilification/main.htm

OK, since nobody seems to have an ECU diagram for an 86 Starion, I went and purchased a manual. (I was going to anyhow, but the need for it got me off my butt) I used terminals A11 and A4 for the A/F meter.  It works perfectly. Only one light at a time lights up.  Not 2, not 4, just 1.   The only thing about looking at the diagram show is that you need to remember its a top down view of the ECU connector, NOT the plug you pulled out of it.  So when it refers to "Connector A", its not the connector on the harness.  Keep that in mind before you splice into the wrong wire.  For a "dime store" fuel cut fix (10k adjustable pot) I spliced into A9 That fixed my 4000+ RPM full boost sputtering problem. The fuel cut must have started to activate at that point. All I did was cut A9 in half and install a 10K adjustable POT that I bought a Radio Shack. I connected the wire coming from the sensor to the middle post on the pot, and one of the outer posts I connected to the ECU. Afterward I mounted it up front on my "control panel" so I could  adjust it if I needed to. (not that I ever would anyway) http://home.rochester.rr.com/vilification/Pictures/ECU.jpg