tux

anyone have pics of the magna intake (modded) all the way around, top, back sides, front? thanks andy

pickup a cartech fmu :/

do you still need uppert strut bearings w/ camber plates? thanks

i got 6.5's in the front. a lot of work and a few rubber spacers on stock bolts so nothing touched and install looks stock (except my half --------------- job on the tweeters in panel behind mirrors but only way they fit) got 6.5's in rear but they suck...drowned out by sub anyways also use stock speakers in dash for CELL PHONE!

alright i talked briefly w/ shelby about this for a friend and actually i had a better idea and wanna use it myself but only have it "cooler" so we both want this circuit here's what i wanna do supply voltage is 12v (auto) i gotta drop voltage down to 5v for motorola absolute manifold pressure sensor sensor appears to output -4.9 to +4.9 depending on boost reading. now whats gotta happen is trigger a 12v lamp (for me .24amp) and LED for him so according to what i'm thinking i gotta use resistors to drop resistance down from 12v to 5v then go to map then from map increase the output to something between 0-12v (at least i think so the lamp/led would increase in brightness) or maybe i'm wrong and need it increase to +12v and ramp the amperage? but anyways i think it'd be voltage so ramp up to 12v and it appears to go from +/-4.9v i need to use an op amp to hop it up to 0.xx volt to +12 volt anyone have any idea how this circuit is done? thanks andy

sweet thanks

http://www.importexporthelp.com/eshield15.htm

i'm starting to get rust for the first time on my starion and it's been garaged for almost entire time i've owned it! anyone know where i can go to get that taken care of cheaply... and i'm prolly gonna (soon as i can) get electronic rust prevention system thanks andy

wow that's a pretty good idea. i decided actually that i'm gonna buy some pipes from shelby (he's a nice guy and everyone should give him money). But for i/c to mpi manifold i'm going the silicone route (no doubt)... it'll be a lot easier to snake that around a battery than trying to bend steel peace tux

ya, power feeds to signal flasher affect the volt meter. Hold an LED on the circuit board + and - by the volt meter, the LED will dim and brighten. Nothing wrong

i've noticed a new "revelation" in tuning and it comes as a pack of wires for a mere 120-150$ from hks or like 30$ from radio now i hear this makes moderate performance increases apparently all you do is run 8 or 10 gauge ground wires to all points on body where critical ecu sensors are located supposedly increasing response time hehe anyone wanna bother with it and see if it's true? i know they do on the EVO, WRX, STI, SRT-4, and i think hundahs i have no idea if it really works to the extent that everyone claims

it is an aic. I can start the car w/ it and the stock clips removed it's just a little difficult to get it started, gotta tap the "test" button to force more fuel out (but those inj are smaller than i'm gonna run for mpi) and it will hold a "rough" idle and rev up quite nicely tho.

I happen to have one, and there is one on ebay right now just wondering if it looks to anyone like it may be able to be used as a stand alone fuel controller. it has dials to adjust injector flow rate, rpm it starts work at, beginning boost and max boost and ratio to which the flow should change to boost (w/ simulator which i have) it has map sensor, and a tach input. it looks like it could do it (just fuel) otherwise i'd go for megasquirt. but since i have this s*** and just need to figure out how to find more harnesses it looks like a viable option to me i dunno anyone have any thoughts?

its ridiculous i have a pipe bender, but only crush bends so actually i could do that myself, but i'd prefer a smooth walled solution, and actually that silicone will make little tight bends w/o a problem. Only thing i'd see that i may have to do is put a sleeve on it where it's gonna run next to the radiator still haven't gotten to taking my grill off yet to see what i'll need :/ actually i haven't gotten near the car for longer than it took to remove the alternator and sway bar

4g63? thats blasphemous 4g54b all the way

actually the funny part about what you just said is that NO exhaust shop around here had any clue of what a mandrel bend was... would you want to take your vehicle to a place that you had to describe what a mandrel bend was and then being told that it's impossible to bend a pipe in such a way that it doesn't crush?

ya only reason i am thinking about the silicone is coz the ONE shop around here that does mandrel bending wants in excess of 400$ to do it all, and they are around 40 miles away. so silicone will be the way to go for me... i figure i can get it done easier that way (silicone will bend where as still will not. so i don't have to be as precise w/ all the bends anyways) that and i need it done very NOW'ish.... i figure on doing turbo to i/c in silicone first since my mpi isn't near finished yet and my rex is wrecked. then later do i/c to mpi i'd kinda rather do steel but at this point for myself silicone looks like the way to go for me. just offering the link for others to check out

link correction http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/viewcat.htm page 64

well it seems i may have found a solution for myself to bypass my issue of intercooler and intake plumbing maybe someone else might find this handy (i'm trying to get mpi done as fast and cheap as possible) i got some ridiculous quotes on hard pipes for my car. and it appears this will be just as good if not better many scca cars use these silicone pipes (samco sells similiar products for wrx :'( and lancer) pegasusauto.com i believe is the site and look at pdf page 64 anyways for now i need a car so i'm going to just do turbo to i/c and get extra later for when my mpi is completely finished (i need a car now since wrx is wrecked and i'm fighting to get 6-8k for repairs from the 's insurance) but ya it appears i can get 2.25"x1 meter of silicone hose for 79.99$ and 45 and 90 degree silicone elbows for 44.99 and 39.99$ respectively (elbows are approx 4" long) they also have spicing s for 18.99 a piece (to have a hard section in splices) and lines clamps for 1.99$ from them but i had issues w/ the stock lines blowing off so these connectors are probably what i'll end up getting when i finish the car - www.py-thon.com i believe they run somewhere from 30-40$ a connector but they look sick! also this pegasus place sells parts to make ss braided lines... not sure if their prices are cheaper than the hydraulic supply store around here... but in one of the pdf pages they show you how to connect the lines to the couplers and how to cut them properly and such. i have a question since i won't see my car til later today but i forgot my keys so i prolly won't see if for a week or 2 (no car to get to it anymore) but does anyone know approx length needed to do turbo to i/c? and also i/c to magna intake thanks andy

Has anyone gotten a magna intake straight from australia? i did for like under 100$ shipped but the gosh darn machinists are here was 600$ to block off the rear, move tb to front and relocate t-stat.. and they wouldn't even tap the vac holes for me... anyone know of a cheap machinist in NJ that'd do it for me for like under 100-200$ or so? thanks andy

ya true, i've read this so long ago i kinda forget.. been busy w/ trying to sue over my wrx hrm i know he has 24lb injectors in now and he's safe for 9lbs of boost looking around i saw i need like 60-70 something lb injectors :/ costs a little more than i have but ah well i'm off to drop off my manifold to machine shop to get it fixed up and facing the right way ;d

well i scored a free 65mm tb from a ford ranger (6 cyl 4 liter) while helping my friend clean his condo so i can live there w/ my woman otherwise we'd be homeless hehe ;D and i got a place to stay for relatively cheap and a throttlebody! w00t also met a guy around the corner w/ a sweet a** wrx anyways i also got 6 16 or 18 lb injectors from the car. (it's not stock tb or injectors) but the question here is does anyone know what throttle cable part number i can use w/ the FORD TB (it's really for mustang/ranger) and if the 16 lb injectors are good enough for 20g1a.. i know he had fuel issues w/ his vortech v2 sq also i scored a vortech rrfpr just have to buy the plate kit i need... not too sure what baseline/rate to get for plate tho... :/ if anyone can let me know if 16lb or 18 lb is big enough, what throttle cable to use, and what plate to stick in the rrfpr i'd be appreciative. thanks

i'm thinking of eliminating drag from water pump by using electric drive for my water pump. does anyone have any input on this. apparently these are used by 24 hours racers and such according to a few companies that make this, and they say it uses very little power so it can be run on a drag car w/ no alternator. my other thought was just to stick an electric inline water pump in. thus i am able to run water pumps after engine shutdown to reduce heat between runs and have it turn off after a while being on a timed relay. i'd rather do electric drive i think, but the idea of an inline pump intrigues me coz if lets something happened to my water pump (like belt snapping again) i'd still have some assurance that the water won't just sit there it'd still be moving along. actually i dunno it's more food for thought ;D

i'm gonna be using the megasquirt for fuel.. so i'm not too sure if the stock fpr on the aussie is good enough (since it's for non aspirated) ahh i duno ;D

ok thanks... but still was wondering about the fpr can i use the stock aussie one? or do i have to use a rrfpr or a bcfpr or one of them in combination w/ the stock aussie? thanks