Too Deep

#3 piston ring land is cracked. it either needs one cast piston and a hone, or a bore job and 4 good pistons. I learned my leason about cast pistons. the vacumn retard hose came off and just 2 runs cracked the piston. I got a deal on a TEP motor and just swapped it in. Other than that the engine was was right and tight. FYI this engine was in my black 86 mpi car. i just dropped it this car for some place to keep it.

This is my last car and all the parts i have, along with a tow dolly to haul it all away. Look through the pics and i will try to answer any questions the best i can. This car is at my parents place in Newport TN, i live in NH. The car is missing a few parts like trans, radiator, intake and a few other smaller things to make it complete. It is very, very clean underneth. I unbolted the original exhaust and took the bolts out by hand. The engine was the original from my MPI car. Head studs, rod studs, BSE, basic rebuild with cast pistons. Cracked a ring land with less than 5k on the rebuild. Some extra parts include 240mm flywheel, new TEP performance cam with HD springs, extra 6bolt diff and axles, 2 sets of roller rockers, 2 complete 12a's working but need rebuild. Clean FL title, $1000 I will be in TN the 3rd week in Oct, but my father has the title and can meet with anyone who is interested in buying sooner. http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/7694/0423091028a.jpghttp://img233.imageshack.us/img233/3116/0423091027.jpghttp://img199.imageshack.us/img199/4887/0423091028.jpg http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/5237/0423091028b.jpghttp://img299.imageshack.us/img299/9412/0423091029.jpghttp://img206.imageshack.us/img206/2076/0423091028c.jpg http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/4097/0423091028d.jpghttp://img220.imageshack.us/img220/6645/0423091028e.jpghttp://img206.imageshack.us/img206/2448/0423091029a.jpg http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/993/0423091029b.jpghttp://img220.imageshack.us/img220/7305/0423091029c.jpghttp://img523.imageshack.us/img523/2884/0423091030.jpg http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/4008/0423091030a.jpghttp://img10.imageshack.us/img10/420/0423091031.jpg

Inverness. 1/2 hr from Ocala.

The old paint on the wheels was faded and the clear coat was peeling. I sanded and polished the lips but the spokes would probably need repainting.

Bump for a really nice car, ready for a good home. PRICE REDUCED! $4000 for a quick sale

Heavy Duty 3/4 ton 4 wheel drive. 111,800 miles 6.0L 300hp gas engine 4spd HD automatic transmission 4.10 locker rear end Remote starter, Alarm Cd player, 115v power invertor Trailer brake controller. Very dependable. Fully serviced and ready to work or play. Recently replaced brakes, tires and shocks. Silverado 2500HD pics

I've owned this car since 2002 and its treated me good. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it cross country. As much as i have enjoyed it, my life is going in a direction that puts money ahead of this car. 89k miles when i bought it unmolested from a 2nd owner. Now has 118,300 miles. About 6k miles on new motor and clutch. Forged 8:1 Balanced Head/rod studs Cammed Ported exhaust Non jet head Magna Intake 550 injectors MSD 6 puck clutch Megasquirt Installed new FP 17cTD05h about 8 - 10k miles ago. GM 110 amp alt HKS SS BOV PLX wideband with digital display 3in DP Newer style 1 piece air dam Dual exhaust out the back with caddy STS tips Looks and sounds awesome DVD screen where OE radio was. Pioneer radio where A/C controls were. A/C controls where ash try was. Too many other things to list, I'm getting depressed just typing this much out. Pretty much any maintenance item you can think of has been done. I built it to be a daily driver and it has always been dependable. A/C had always been ice cold, never opened the system, never charged. It's fast, it's tuned great, it looks good. Last month i dropped a 2x4 on the rf fender, left a dent in the top of it :mad: LR fender has nickle size surface rust bubble. Under the car looks good, surface rust on passenger side frame from a/c dripping P/S pump has a small leak, top off the fluid at every 2k mile oil change. No cruise (Cruise switch activates boost control) No ABS Power antenna inop The only idle control is an on/off solenoid hooked to the A/C relay. This means it needs slight throttle input on cold start up. Sometimes it stalls once on the first try, but once warmed up it will idle smooth for as long as you want. 90% of the paint is a 9.5 on a 10 scale. The nose is flat black over rock chips and the 83 hood need a complete makeover. The front and hood look good from a distance but are very obviously flawed compared to the rest of the car. Also included is a brand new set of cross drilled/slotted rotors still in the box. I will drive this car with any interested party, but if you want to be a test pilot we need to come to an agreement and deposit first. Pictures I didnt wash it for the pics otherwise i probably would have changed my mind about selling her.

Are you useing EGO correction? Also i run 2 maps. One for summer and one for winter. That makes all the difference on mine. Also make sure the Baro correction is on.

I ran 225/50 up front with the 255/50 in the rear. It had a pretty good rake but i liked it. I think a 225/45 front would match up better with a 245/45 rear.

Count me in. Non Adj Ready to buy.

Can anyone add a link to both rear struts available. I've tried 7 online shops and found a total of 3 LR struts and 0 RR's Tire rack had a RR only listed so i ordered it. They called this morning to tell me it was a mistake. No RR's. Also Auto parts warehouse list them instock , but when i called they said try back in a week and they should have some in :confused0024: KYB Part # 235003 RR KYB Part # 235004 LR

WOW! You did WHAT! Come on now, that one's older than the internet itself

Thanks for the tips. When i get a free weekend i'll pull the ecu out and reflash. (it's been 2 years at least) I tried a little experiment today i tryed keeping the engine at close to 0 MAP when shutting off the key. When the timer started it still ran rich, but it was much smotther and between 12:1 and 11:1 unstead od 10:1 and RICH. I still need to add in some type of idle control. Any suggestions?

i bought my '02 4x4 2500hd for $8900 Cheapest comparable diesel i could find was $21000 It would probably take about 200k miles of towing to break even. Although the diesel pumps sure are alot eaiser to get in and out of at the truck stops. :emot-bandwagon:

Right, you need at least $25 before they cut you a check. We gotta by gas, might as well get some of my money back.

Then you sir, are a rare person indeed. One in a million i'd say.

That's a tough restriction to put on anyone. Every one's moral values are different. In your opinion, what are the moral obligations one has to be an American? Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of happiness comes to mind. Freedom of speech and religion seem like they would be right at the top also.

I asked your opinion because you say people are reading into your posts. Just trying to clear up where you are coming from. Are you happy with the current running of America? Do you believe that "change" is needed? Could you vote for a black man or woman if you agreed with their policies?

Where were you 5 years ago, Captain Obvious?!! :character0028:

When you say "hating America" do you think, hates the country, hates the people, or maybe hates the corrupt government and big business that controls it all. The latter would make the most sense unless you believe Obama is running for president with the sole intention of destroying this nation. I feel like the current administration has done quite well with that already.

I had much worse luck with the Walmart crap. Care to tell of you BP gas horror stories. I've burned $1000 worth in a month with no problems. I use 93 in the Quest and GTP 89 octane pulling 8500lbs with my Chevy 2500 87 in the 4runner

Ever since i got up and running on MS (over 3 yrs now) my turbo timer has given me fits. 90% of the time i use the after run i would get a RICH reading on the A/F guage and the car would barely run until it stalled. Even if i gave it WOT it would still read between 10:1 and rich not revving past 3k rpm. Also if it stalled and i restarted the engine without cycling the key off first the condition would continue. Once shutting the ign off then restarting everything would go back to normal after clearing the extra fuel out of the engine. I tried logging it and fooling with different settings trying to correct this weird condition, but it seemed so hard on the engine i just gave up and quit using the turbo timer. Yesterday i was browsing the MS forum and reading some similar posts. The most logical conclusion is that the MS takes an initial BARO reading from the map sensor before the engine starts. It uses this to base the fuel tables for atmospheric changes. The MS ECU must be momentarily losing ign power when the turbo timer switches on. This causes a BARO reading while the engine is still idling with a vac in the intake. This throws the whole map curve off. The weird thing is one out of every 10 or so times it works perfect and never misses a beat. Now my next issue, when i shut the car off on a hot day, if i restart in say 5 - 10 minutes my A/F is leaner and my idle is much less stable until the next cold or cooler restart. I'm still on the original MSI board with the MSII daughter card v2.2 using 10% A/F correction. I see an option in Megatune for a separate baro sensor, so i started think about how the stock system works. Mits put that vacuum valve/T above the brake booster that has a hose coming in from the intake, one side going to the map sensor (86 model ) and the other side go to the air box. IIRC at key on the valve opens from the map sensor to the air box for the initial BARO reading then switches to the intake for engine MAP readings. Anyone encounter this or have a good fix for it?

Well said :thumbsup:

BP is offering 10% back on all fuel purchases at their stations for the first 60 days after you open a new account for their gas card. Then 5% off all BP fuel purchases after that. You have to rack up $250 in fuel purchases before they will cut you a check, but 40 cents off a gallon seems worth the wait to me. One catch i found was it is 60 days from opening the account, not from when you actually receive the card. I lost out on 9 days, so i really am only getting 51 days at 10% off. 93 is $4.18 a gallon here today. BP was the cheapest in town. Memorial day weekend we made a trip to TN and back pulling a loaded 24ft trailer. 1200 miles at 8mpg. uuug. The end of this month we are off to NH. 1700 miles 1 way. 2 trucks fully loaded pulling trailers. I figure this deal will save me more than $250 in just over a month.