BIL

I know this is kind of basic and maybe a little dumb, but what is the spark plug gap? I had to move to an 8 series NGK and gap them at .030-.032.

Sold! Send me a PM with your address so I can send you a money order.

Frank, money order is going out tommow after work for the trans. Will send it out per your email to me. Any questions call me.

If Scotty doesn't get it, I'll take it for the asking price of $225 shipped, if it will fit my '89 widebory. I know some of the earlier narrow body doesn' fit.

3" exhaust with a magnaflow and a 4" tip. I guess I'm going to have to change though state cop stopped me and told me Fl changed the law and the tip was now illegal. My daughter in law got stopped for the same violation on her car. Have to see about a dual tip. PSU, any info on your tip?

My car likes Royale Purple, but most of the synthetics are considerably more expensive than conventional oils. You say you are losing oil over 3000 miles..what interval do you normally change your oil at? I hope that you aren't going too long in between changes.

Any chance it could be a bent rim? My hum is from a bent rim.

Guess I'm going to pass...just found out I need a digital 6 for my son's project car.

Interested. Can you tell me any more? Any problems with it? How old and etc?

If that is a weekend I think we can have 2 cars there.

come on now...lighten up...you know us old folk from Tampa don't know where the caps key is on the keyboard.

If that is the problem and the FPR is out of warranty you can get a rebuild kit. My local speed shop carries them so I'm sure you could find one in Hot'Lanta easily.

I agree, you missed the point. The guage should be cool or it will be less than accurate. That is why I suggested the morning. Set it cold and check it on several separate days. Once you have established the right fuel pressure you do the tuning with the motor warm. If you do it with the guage hot it could be 5 lbs or so off. I'm sure you can do a better tune than I can, but I do understand the physics behind the guage problem. Yes an in cabin guage will be more accurate over the whole temperature range. I mounted mine in the bay just for ease of setting it up initially.

Jahjah, you have seen mine..it's attached to the FPR under the hood. I have to set pressure when the motor is cold. When it is hot or when it is hot outside here the guage reads higher. This is not unusual in anyway. I believe there was another thread about this a few months ago. The problem that can happen is inaccurate readins when hot and even damage to the guage that will cause it to not zero out. You might also see this in oil pressure guages. You indeed might have a different problem. I was just offering a possible cause. Try checking fuel pressure when "cold" several mornings in a row and see what your pressure is.

Where is the pressure guage, and is it always connected. If it is under the hood the pressure may vary due to temperature. If the ambient (air) temperature was higher on the day it was "set" or if the motor was hot when it was "set" and the guage is permanently attached under the hood it could cause the different reradings.

The point of having the *DM intercooler vs another brand is 1. It is a direct replacement (just barely fits) that needs no cutting of supports or changing mounts. 2. It has a much greater cooling surface than stock. I agree with the comments on the hardpipes.

I bought 2 idler arms from separate companies and neither was correct. Where did you get the bushings and how much "customizing" did you need to do?

PM your MSQ to some of the members that are helping others. It will be a starting point. The megasquirt manual is a mess...but i say that because it has way too many options that are not explained in simple terms. It is written for people with a good understanding of how a mechanical, fuel, and electrical system actually work. It hits every little detail of all these areas. I spoke to the DIY guys and told them what was needed to make Megasquirt widely used is a "MegaSquirt for Dummies" book. Some of them agreed that it would be good but nobody seemed to have the time or knowlege to do it. It would be a huge undertaking, but could prove to be very profitable. As others have said every install is different. Different sensors, different wiring schemes, different injectors, pistons, electrical noise, fuel supply and etc make it impossible to make a one size fits all solution.

This ad says it's built for 1000 hp. I hope this isn't anyone on here, cause I think it is a bit overstated to say the least. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Engine-Mistubishi-2-6L-Turbo-Starion-Conquest_W0QQitemZ330364480724QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4ceb41ecd4&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

Tha might not be accurate. I know a number of racers that get tuned on they dyno and save 3 configurations to the hand tuners. They save daily tune, play tune, and track tune.

Hey Art, since i didn't get any of the other stuff... I'll take the sway bars. Shipping to 33611. Let me know the total and I'll get the money out to you.

I would have to disagree. If you push your car hard or sit for a long time in a hot climate it really helps. Zip tie it for now and fix or replace it when you can. If your cooling system is marginal in any way you will know why that plastic is there.

You need to let everyone know where you are (city, state).

I just wanted to say I have one of these and they are much larger than stock and they just fit in the stock position. They same can be said of *DM's aluminum radiator. It is also much larger and is a tight fit with very small clearance in the stock position, but it does cool very well using the stock fans. It is a direct bolt on too.