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psu_Crash

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Posts posted by psu_Crash

  3. Boosted Diamonds

    in Feedback Forum

    Posted · Edited by psu_Crash

    11 hours ago, 1SICDSM said:

    love his parts got hood,front panel,head lights,door sills,interior handle bezel,and radio bezel.that wing is the longer version or factory ?

    This is the extended "Waddington Wing" in memory of our buddy Graham. Currently this is the only version they offer, although I'm told a factory spec version is coming. 

    I forgot he sold the sill plates. May have to ask about those now. Custom CF hood will be my next part. Not soon though 

    How was fitment of your parts? Mounting points line up and body lines match? I'm not concerned, just curious. 

  4. Boosted Diamonds

    in Feedback Forum

    Posted

    While doing paint I was dead set on not reinstalling my severely beat up 3 piece rear wing. Boosted Diamonds to the rescue! I haven't unpacked the 3rd piece yet because it's packed so well! Very soon. You won't find a better guy to deal with, thanks Janner! 

    nGTW3T.jpg

  5. 4g63 cas

    in Engine Swappers

    Posted

    9 hours ago, tux said:

    Yes, I’m planning to do the kiggly crank trigger and figure out a solution for cam home.  That’s why I’m looking for options like that Kia sensor (uses a g4cp engine based on 4g6x).  It’s super slim, but I’m not sure how it’s triggered.  I found the FSM for he kia, and it completely ignores that sensor

    And I hear you.  I wish i didn’t already start down this road.  4g6x parts are harder than I thought would be to come by and more expensive than i thought, given how popular this darn engine was.

    For my 4g54, i went with a modified distributor shafted mated to an AEM EPM, which allowed me to do sequential.

     

     

    Kia sensor looks to the be the same as the Kiggly, but like you said, it still needs to trigger off something. It's always more expensive and take 10x as long as you think! I also use a modified distributor with the yoshifab hi res wheel. 

  6. 4g63 cas

    in Engine Swappers

    Posted

    5 hours ago, tux said:

    Ya I’m wondering about solutions that don’t involve a custom drive shaft.

     

    i think a 2gb cas may work or some other solution.

     

    im going to be cutting off the throttle body flange to clear the booster

    Fair enough. Custom driveshaft can be a chore. A lot easier than the swap you're doing though 😄

    I had all the parts to do the 4G64/63 at one time and sold them off dirt cheap when I moved. Serious mistake. This is the route I planned to keep the engine on the factory mounts and drivetrain. No one wants to move the weight forward on a RWD. This one requires a stand alone, which I was using anyways, but I think they sell a kit to work with the factory ECU too. Not sure what your plan is there. 

    https://www.kigglyracing.com/product-page/billet-12-tooth-crank-trigger-sensor-kit-v3

     

  9. B Pillar Vent Gasket

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted · Edited by psu_Crash

    On 1/5/2026 at 4:15 PM, kev said:

     

    Going around the corners is a little tricky.  I had to slice the back side of the U-channel of the edge trim with a razor blade to get it to fold around nice.    Used a few dabs of 3M trim adhesive to hold it in position on the back side.

    Edge trim was sourced from McMaster-Carr.   

    Leave the little gap on the bottom for moisture to run out...just like it was stock.  

     

     

    YES!!!!! I was looking at all the options and sizes there, but couldn't decide. 

    I almost messaged you directly since I knew you had done it. Thank you Kev!!

  10. B Pillar Vent Gasket

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted

    Has anyone found a replacement for the B pillar vent gasket? I was thinking maybe some thin rubber edge trim from McMaster, but if one of you has a solution, I'm all ears! 

    This plastic gasket around the edge, in case you're wondering what i'm talking about 😉

    UIT3E9.jpg

  13. Head gasket

    in Newbie Introduction

    Posted · Edited by psu_Crash

    There is a metal pipe that goes from the water pump around the exhaust side of the block and the back to the heater core hoses. The rubber hoses at the heater core end is where I would focus. 

    Look here on page 12. https://mksmotorsport.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/cooling.pdf

    110 psi on all cyclinders doesn't sound like a blown head gasket. It is a little low, but if it's even you are probably ok. 

  19. Crank no start.. Stumped

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted · Edited by psu_Crash
    Adding pics from mobile fail..

    Well, I thought I'd stop over and get this car running in no time. Nope. 

    I measured injector signals with the o-scope and injector connected. Revealing some odd things on the first injector. Took a resistance measurement and it showed open. I thought, injector clips. 

    Second injector gave a good scope reading, although I'm not sure what to think of the noise. Maybe feedback from the starter, maybe not. 

    Scope Signal

    Either way at this point I'm sure the ECU and most wiring is ok. Meter on the injectors measured 2.7-2.8 ohms on both.

    After this I bypassed the clips al together using some alligator clips. Had him crank it while I watched in the throttle body. Nothing. Checked fuel flow and pressure as best I could without a gauge. Feed line definitely has pressure. At this point I decide it must be the injectors.

    Took his injectors back to my shop to test fire and back flow them. The connections were pretty corroded. They got cleaned up and the clips started to read correct resistance. Using the 9V battery trick, small tube on the injector, carb cleaner in it and 30psi air connected. No spray... no click from the injector either. $#@! Second injector acted the same way. Forward or reverse flow. 

    I'm not sure how and I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't witnessed first hand. Both at the same time seems highly unlikely, but here we are. 

    I recommended sending them for cleaning. I'm not sure if they can be saved or not. One way to find out

     

  22. Crank no start.. Stumped

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted

    He forgot to mention it will run on spray. He has checked for cranking signal to the ECU also. I'm not far. One of these days I should just grab my electrical diagnostic supplies and go check it out. Having a scope on a few signals will tell me a lot.

    The fusible links were also cleaned/changed. After that it did fire on its own, very briefly. As if it was just a prime pulse burning off. 

  24. 1986 Conquest bucking past ~3500rpms

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted

    You're very welcome, really glad to hear it helped!! 

    I run a Walbro 255lph in the stock location and it is also loud at times. I attribute it to getting warm after hard runs. As long as it has pressure, I'll continue to run it. I'm sure the MKS in tank is a great setup. I don't know anyone personally that is running it, but I will probably go that route when mine dies. 

    What does the AFR look like when it's acting up? If it still looks good under load I can't imagine it's the pump. Double check the vacuum line to the FPR. Maybe test it for vacuum/pressure leaks just to be sure. I run my idle speed a little closer to 1k. Mainly because I fear that my cam and semi solid engine mounts will rattle the car apart at lower RPM. Turn the idle stop in a hair to see if it helps. Does it stumble off idle when it's running poorly or will it rev free?

     

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