psu_Crash
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Posts posted by psu_Crash
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If you do have them repair the dent in the spoiler I'd love to know what they use. Everything I have tried fails pretty quickly.
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It's been that long since your tree incident .. man we are getting old. I have a hatch with a good spoiler and bad glass that I'd love to swap over to the white car. Keep us posted on the removal process. Always been told it's near impossible so never tried myself.
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Getting close!
Anti-sieze on the LCA bolt is a good call. I lubed the snot out of mine too after the first nightmare removal.
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I'll be there at some point for some amount of time. See ya'll soon!
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I agree with the voltage. Many strange things have happened on mine when it dips below 10V. Give that a try and see if the logs look any better. Also take a trigger and a tooth log. That may show what's really going on.
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What version of MS are you using? There is a noise filter function in MS2 extra code (and newer) that can help with that. I had the same issue with my MS years ago, only slightly different. I would see batt V spikes that corresponded to the RPM spikes. I thought for sure it was caused by bad/incorrect grounding somewhere, but never did track it down. I also installed a filter capacitor on my MS board from advice in the forums. That may have been removed after I put a filter on the power lines though ... I can't really remember. Either way that's not an option with microsquirt.
Are you getting lost sync counts?
Seeing the cranking PW at 11.5ms max seems awful high to me too. What size injectors? Are you priming at power up? Maybe that is set too high also.
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That can be a leak at the back of the valve cover too. It will run down and make it appear the rear main, housing or the trans is leaking. I recommend getting some UV dye for the oil. Then clean the snot out of it. Wait till dark, start it up and shine the black light. Found many leaks this way that were not at all coming from where I thought.
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Any progress is still progress! I remember fighting with that LCA bolt years back and being shocked at how much new ones were!
I keep saying mine will be back on the road this year too. I never dreamed a "paint job" would take me 2+ years
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Not sure Ronnie at JDL is still willing to make them, but you can always hit him up to ask. I love my JDL manifold!
Chad is probably your best bet
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On 5/19/2022 at 6:36 AM, BlueCuda said:
I will do the gangsta lean for the first trip or two if I can, I would hate to do these changes then decide I didn't care to autocross.
I did that for my first autocross season and it JACKED my back up! I started out with intentions of drag racing then fell into autocross. It's a blast! I'm sure you will have a good time with it.
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2 minutes ago, Minagera said:
Copy. I honestly hope I have then gone sooner. But we will see.
I get that. Probably the only thing really holding me up right now is the 2 trips and cost of fuel. ... maybe the angry wifey ... maybe she'll get over it
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I ran into this with my car too. I'm 6'2" and didn't fit with my helmet on. I took the seat out and removed the sliders. Then made custom brackets to drop the seat 1-2" and also moved it back a few. Now it's in a fixed position, but I'm the only one driving it anyways. So all good
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1 minute ago, Minagera said:
?? Must not have seen it.
Basically just said the same thing as above. Hopefully I can take you up on the offer before the end of summer!
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22 minutes ago, madmanperez said:
I looked around, this seems to be a somewhat expensive piece of equipment, $200-$300 and higher. OUCH
But it is worth every penny! Then you know for sure what is going on with your air fuel mixture.
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22 hours ago, Minagera said:
The White car has a title, black car does not.
I just responded to your facebook post too
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Rear 8s have definitely been ran in the front before.
Sounds like our local SHP hoarders are holding out on you!
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I always intended on just replacing those links with a fuse box. I understand the links act different than a fuse, to an extent. A good CC class time delay fuse will definitely protect other wires from burning though without being a hassle.
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On 5/4/2022 at 2:27 PM, tux said:
air cups are cheaper than a new driveway apron! my suv scrapes coming into the driveway!
Ouch, I'm surprised it can even get in there with air cups! I just put $20k into fixing my my driveway so I feel your pain.
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Looks like progress!
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On 4/27/2022 at 3:41 PM, tux said:
That or get Bluetooth controlled relays and use an app on my phone or headunit to activate.
Easy there fancy boy!
Air cups and BT control? Sounds pretty freaking cool to me. Stand outside at the show and make her dance
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On 4/30/2022 at 4:52 PM, OnyxFox said:
I’m definitely grateful for it already, excited to really delve into working on it. I actually have to replace the hood release cable (currently using pliers to pop it) and can’t seem to find any luck finding it on Google. Do you have any recommendations for where to go for parts?
If the sleeve is still in decent shape you can run a new cable through and attach the end after
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Less than 3 hours from me ... if my workplace wasn't closing the doors in July I'd be on my way this weekend! I assume the white car does have a title?
Depending how things work out over the next few months, I may be back in touch.
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Seems the writeup is still there, but my links are broken. Link address does appear to still work if you copy/paste it into the browser. Maybe I'll find some time to fix that
Guess these coil springs
in Just plain ol' B.S.
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Those look like my old STs. I installed MK1 pillow ball camber plate in the rear to even things out. I liked those springs a lot. "upgraded" to the Eibach's 10+ years ago and I was able to dive the airdam into the pavement at autocross events. ST went back on with much better results. Then D2 entered the scene and I never looked back.
Eibach were a good spring for cruising the streeets, but calling them a performance spring is a stretch in my opinion.