psu_Crash
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Posts posted by psu_Crash
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That definitely sounds rich, I would expect a little puff of black though. Especially at idle they do like to be a bit rich. As for the MAF, it seems to be hit or miss on an 86. Some are fine without it, others not.
You can test the IAT. I believe the specs are in the service manual or they are definitely buried here somewhere. Same for the blaster coil. I'm sure you can find primary and secondary specs from MSD. In my experience if the coil is bad it wouldn't rev well, especially under load. My money is on something around the TB. 99% of the time the problem stems from where you worked on it last. Usually late night and not 100% sober has caused me some grief once or twice 😄 If you cleaned the ground and reinstalled then I can't imagine that is the issue. You can always take a resistance reading from the ground connection to the top hat on the TB just to be sure there is a good connection. Also from that connection to another spot on the body just to make sure you have a solid ground. Might be a stretch, at least you can be sure then.
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Gotcha, I couldn't remember if the stock system primed or not. Yes, I believe 38psi is correct for the stock injectors. Southbay advertises their injectors as a "direct fit, compatible with the stock ECU" I wonder if that means they are designed to work at the lower pressure? Easy enough to try.
On my 86 unplugging the MAF actually made it idle better, so I left it that way for years. 86 are a breed of their own. The IAT being unplugged should have caused a rich condition, but if you are already rich...
Is the ground to the intake manifold still there and in good shape? I've seen grounding cause all sorts of weird issues. Probably not the likely culprit in your case, just something I thought about since a lot of sensors use that for a ground reference.
You mentioned it smells rich. Have you pulled a plug to verify? Or noticed black smoke when you stab the throttle?
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42psi is too high for the factory injectors. Sounds like you already know that though. Are you setting the FPR without a vacuum connected? Otherwise it will be too high. I don't remember if it will prime the pump when you turn on the key. Mine has been far from stock for a LONG time. That's one way to see pressure without starting the car if it will. Might require 2 people since even though pressure shouldn't bleed off quickly it will still drop.
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Intake to the MAP should be fine. I ran my 86 like that for years because, like most, I broke a nipple off that solenoid.
I don't remember what other line comes off that. Should be a diagram under your hood to chase it down, then decide if it needs a vac reference.
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On 6/30/2025 at 9:41 AM, techboy said:
I'll definitely post up with what I find out, but it might be a little bit - like fall or winter. Other than that the initial puff of burnt oil the car is running really well and I'm in the middle of a building a garage at the new house, restoring a Galant VR-4 with my son and I bought a new turbo for the Eclipse almost 2 years ago I'd like to get installed and tuned, so barring anything crazy the Starion is kinda on the back burner for now.
Honestly, I don't think I would ever build another G54B at this point. If something were to happen to my current motor, I'd swap - just not sure to what. I'm kinda between 4G63, 5.0 and 1JZ. I'm still kicking myself for not buying all the 4G63 stuff from you when you moved.
Good deal. Sounds like you have plenty to keep you busy! Congrats on the new house and garage!
Man ... I kick myself for selling all that stuff off too. I should have stuck with the plan and 63/64 swapped the Valencia car. It would probably be running now if I had. Still have the LS on the stand waiting for a home though.
My problem is I bought an 86 944 that took a lot of time and $$ to get on par. Driving the wheels off it now though!
Not to mention it's been hot as Hades lately!! That makes garage work slow
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On 6/27/2025 at 4:41 PM, OrdinalGradient said:
Here's some more pictures. These were kindly taken by my friend who offered me the car. Very excited to get in and do some deep cleaning but, just looking at everything, it really appears to be in fine condition compared to the few I've found around Texas that I could get within my budget and repair-tolerance. Gas tank is definitely first on the list in terms of things. Undercarriage looked great too. He did a wonderful job of keeping this in good of shape as one could for 40 years old when it was his occasional driver. I've scoped out a reasonable budget to make it run, and some overflow to "make it OEM+" (as my mechanic friend puts it). But, first things first is just hitting those common problems as discussed. Thanks for the warm welcome, guys.
Here's a picture where you can see the rust on the rear panel wheel well a little more clearly. I'm not too worried about that, all things can be fixed in time.
Sounds like you have a good plan. Just FYI, I used a gas tank kit from KBS coatings many years ago and it has been great! There are lots of solutions there though.
Image links aren't working for me
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Congrats and Welcome aboard! 🥳
Let's see some interior pics. I agree that year digital dash and all the sounds it makes are pretty cool! We are here to help you on this journey!
P.S. Also an Electrical Engineer here with a title of Controls Engineer. Lots of PLC and Robotic coding for me, among MANY other tasks
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If it's just once after sitting like that, I might never have noticed. I feel your pain about going into a fresh build though. After one of my rebuilds it would let a puff of smoke when I spiked the go pedal or let off abruptly. Then after it drove for a bit the symptoms seemed to go away. Upon investigating I found that I did not have one of the valve stem seals properly seated and it made contact. The damage was not obvious without really looking. I only found it when advice from others (may have been Shelby) said to just change the seals. Low and behold, operator error on my end.
Definitely interested to see what you find out.
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On 6/22/2025 at 3:34 AM, cowdough said:
I can make vinyl stickers decals etc. I have a plotter and software
He is talking about the paper sticker that shows all the vehicle specs, options, MPG ... etc.
Good to know you have a vinyl printer though. Never know what I may want printed 😉
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On 6/16/2025 at 8:02 AM, kev said:
Regular floor jack is sufficient or even muscle it out by hand.
I did that the first time thinking, it can't be that heavy, I have room. Then I was stuck with a trans on my chest and no room to slide myself out with the trans.
I did NOT have room and it was heavy enough to be difficult. Lessons were learned 🙂Floor jack is 100% the way to go. Even easier if you have a low profile jack.
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Just do it. Then report back 😃
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On 6/13/2025 at 9:16 AM, Rev383 said:
Is there a way to lube the throw out bearing without taking the transmission out?
Nope. Time to pull it apart and replace some parts
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Pretty sure I have good front inserts and a set of rear struts I'd be willing to part with if you're interested. I believe the fronts are KYB and the rear are Mookeeh
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"This listing was ended by the seller on Mon, May 26 at 12:52 PM because the item is no longer available."
Well, that's interesting
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If I was closer I'd come fill the truck!
Edit: I didn't know you sold the car, quitter! 😁
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Let's hope they show off at least one SQ!
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Impressive work Kev!
I played hell trying to get mine straight and get the passenger headlight to open/close smoothly and line up close. I can't believe you were able to pull that rail and get it so close without cutting and welding it up. Factory fenders were not made equal. Putting new to me fenders on mine did not line up well at all compared to the beat up stock fenders, which I later found out had been cut and rewelded to fit the terrible frame repair done way before me. I got rid of the hard lines for the oil cooler years ago and went with -an fittings. No regrets.
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Will it free rev in neutral past 3500?
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I wouldn't put a lot of faith in the stock temp gauge. They have been known to be inconsistant over the years. Grounds are likely a good place to start though. If you haven't already found them starquestgarage.com has all the wiring diagrams and the manual shows all ground points. Cluster and engine grounds would be my first go to, then start to clean body grounds. Any weird misfire or hesitations?
When it high idles while warm, are you running the AC? That can kick things up a bit.
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Sounds like your coil may be getting weak.
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The stock gauge is just a guide line. But if it isn't going high, you're probably fine. There are 2 thermoswitches on the bottom of the radiator for the fans. You can ground the wire there to test the fan operation. The sensor can be tested with a meter and boiling water if you want to take it out and make sure it works.
At 7psi boost should not be an issue. Have you verified the vacuum and mechanical timing advance is working?
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Welcome Aboard! I know Hellrazr well. He went TN to PA and 5 years back I went PA to TN. Nashville is about 3 hours off for me, but I'm local ish. As for parts, I don't have a lot of extra stuff. Good luck with the project! If/when you need some help let us know 😃
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On 4/20/2025 at 7:01 PM, TexasQuest said:
Power automatic seatbelts were only on U.S. spec cars. It was part of the passive restraint rule if you didn't want to fit the vehicle with airbags at that time.
I suppose that makes sense. Thanks for the info!
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I lost that ball when changing out a trans before. After a while I said I was going to put in a toggle switch. Then I actually investigated and found the issue. It could be as simple as the connector just isn't connected anymore. Have you been under the car to take a look at the wiring to that switch? That's where I'd place my bet.
I assume you have never had reverse lights?
86 idle problems
in Newbie Question and Answers
Posted · Edited by psu_Crash
I'm not really sure what to tell you. It "shouldn't" have anything to do with the ISC though. Possibly triple check the voltage and connections at the injector clips. Although I would think that would cause a lean condition there if that was the problem. They generally aren't polarity sensitive either. It just affects opening time IIRC.
Strange that the coil doesn't test in spec. What did it measure compared to what it should be? Can you take a video of the car running/attempting to run? I'm curious. Happen to pull the plugs yet and see if they all look sooty?
If you were closer I'd come over and go through it with you! A second set of eyes is sometimes all you need, or then at least someone can share in the confusion. Maybe someone local with knowledge of these can help out?