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I think the 4.22 rear and an auto would be great. Kevincar1 is working on a stronger auto for his quest and he will post results. The stock auto is just not strong enough even for a stock quest. I bought my quest from the 2nd owner, both females. The auto had to be rebuilt at 61K I bought it at 71k and burned it up in 5k. Admittedly I ran it hard. I will foreward Kevins email to anyone who wants to see his plans and contact him if you like. A strong auto with 4.22s would be very quick not lose boost between shifts and still cruise at less rpms than a 5speed with 3.54s. Mark

The rule of thumb is 1 HP for every extra 10 degrees. A quest ccan run 100 to 150 degrees or more than ambient temps. That's 10-15HP.

I have done some reading concerning open elements and heat. Every 10 degrees is 1HP. Enclosing the element can be worth 10-15 HP! Getting it before the radiator is a good mod!

Interesting post! The 3.90 rear would cruise less rpm's than the 3.54 in 4th gear as the OD with the 3.90 yields a 3.31. Mike I believe you will have NO trouble running mid 12's except for the street tires, though with practice launching you could do it. Slicks/11's! Back when I was younger I was a Buick driver, GS models. Skylarks with big blocks. Most had 2.92's or 3.08 rears and a Chevelle rear wit 3.55's made an impressive difference. These cars really need more of a drop from 4th to 5th or an automatic that will hold up. Gears have been the way to go fast all long. Having them streetable was the problem. New vettes have a .50 drop in 6th gear. That would drop our 4.22's to a 2.11!!! That's how those vettes can make nearly 30mpg cruising. Shelby has had his share of big block mopars. The Hemi of those days really needed the 4.11's to really move the 4000lb. cars they were in. I rode in a 3.54 equipped R/T Hemi and it was not as impressive as I expected. Looking foreward to your thoughts UL when you get the 3.9's. Personally due to my 6'2" frame and a multi surguried back I will try to find an automatic that will last. 4.22's would bce just fine with an auto/OD with their big drop in OD, usually just 68% of the rear gears. 4.22's bececome 2.86's!! in OD. The possible drawback at the track would be dropping into OD before the finish!! Certainly gearing has been overlooked with our cars and UL may get us going in that direction. Mike are you going to 3.90's also?

Earlier in this post I said not to modify the unmetered section of the 1 G mas as it allows too muck air in and the stock injector becomes too small to keep up with the added air. I have since found an 850cc injector that worked fine as a primary injector. It would idle in the stoich range of my halmeter a/f gauge. I believe that a 2nd generation mas might also work with te 850cc injector. This 850-900cc injector can be fond as the secondary injrctor on '88 & '89 turbo colts. I have two injetors thatI am sending to RC Engineering today for a c;lean and flow to find out if indeed I do have 2 of these 850cc injctors. The 1 Gmas is a nice inceae and I believe tht the 2nd generation with proper fuel would prsent quite a HP jump! Mark

I sold Will a 20G turbo and we set up an arrangement for payments due to the cost involved. Will kept in contact and sent payments on time and added a few bucks to each because I used a friends paypal account and Will did not want me to have to cover the paypal fee. Nice to deal with a thoughtful guy. One other thing was that the turbo sat on my damp garage floor for a month and had some corrosion. I told Will the situation and again he was cool and understanding. Good luck with your "Quest" Will and thanks. Mark

I have a pair of hood louvers from a mid '80's chrysler turbo car. They are the ones I would use. They will fit flush and would require professional installation but will sit flush, look good and properly positioned help keep underhood temp's down and HP up. Mark

I have sold Dave many parts over the last year and never a problem. Sometimes he kakes a couple payments to cover the more expensive items and he always keeps me informe as to the payments. On a personal note Dave knows I am currently disabled and he offered to loan me some cash if i needed it! Dave is a family man with another on the way. Not only am I pleased with our business relationship but also consider him a friend. Thanks, Dave

Stariongirl neeed some parts and we agreed on a price. The money order was in the mail promptly and it was a smooth, quick transaction. Definetly a positive addition to the club. Marksweet

I started this post to make aware the possibility of a significant HP increase for less that $150. Probably in the 30+HP fange with minimal effort. Think of it his way. Back in the 60'syou could buy a smllblock with a 2barrel carb. The same ca could be had with a four barrel carb with the only sdditio being a dual exhaust system if that.

Tim you should be running lean. My 1G mas had the K&N cone filter also. Imagine how much more lean your motor would run if you had a modded mas flowing perhaps75% more unmetered air? I sold my RRFPR. They are only good for idle purposes. I ran 2940cc's of fuel with a Bosch350HP fuel pump an a good stock regultor. Besises if you're bumping the fuel pressure to compensate for a lean condition doesn't it make sense to use a larger injector? Maybe not a 1080cc or even a 900cc but perhaps a 750 if it is available. You are correct in that when guys tried 2 secondaries with stock mas' they had no chance to get them to work. My modded 1 G mas and 900cc injector idled in the stoich for the most part which is a little richer than stock. I'll pace my untouched 1 G mas for sale in the proper forum for the one who wants to try this exercise. Mark

Well Tim you have shed some light on this topic. You have confirmed that an opened unmetered side of a 1 G mas lets in enough more air to cause a lean condition. I don't know about the 85.5 injector's flow rate. Please let us know how th car responds with more fuel when you find a proper injector. Thanks, Mark

I started this post and the reason I did so was to help the guys who for one reason or another did not go with MPI. I hogged out the unmetered side of the 1 G mas because that is what I thought I ws supposed to do. My mechanic listened to the car idle(misfire) for less tan a minute andsaid it was running lean. I switched the injector leads('89) and gained 10" at idle and 500rpm's. Then a member said he was having trouble and he had 2 900cc injectors, both flowed. I got one and ran it as the primary. Yes the car had lots of mods but how many contributeto the idle and cruise. I have an untouched 1 G mas that I paid $40. for thinking maybe my modded mas was causing another problem. Turned out not to be so. $40. and I'll pay the shipping for someone who already has a 1 G mas so they can do it and see for them selves. It must add 30-40HP. Mark

I apologize for this old sticking keyboard. I have the flowsheet from this 900cc injector. I only offered the information forthose who do not chose to follow what has been done before. My 1G mas was modded on theunmetered side to one large oval. The only way to get thecarto run properly was to reverse the injectors with the secondary as the primary. Then I ran across a 900cc which I have the flow sheet from rc engineering. With the unmetered side opened upthe motor idled lean. The mas is a massive restriction to air flow. With the proper fuel control this can be overcome. The 900cc looks like any other quest injector. I am only offering this info for those who want the extra power available at a nominal cost. I was told some Colts had them as a secondary. I no longer drive a quest, just trying to help the guys without big bankrolls. Hopefull your Canadian brother will see this post and add some technical info that I do not posess.Mark

I have the flow sheet from RC Engineeringinering.900cc's. My 1 G mas is modded on the unmetered side to one large oval. The motor even idled lean. I came acrossthe900cc injector. The car had  lots ofmods. I was running 2940cc's of fuel per minutecc's/cc'swise. It did not run rich and made lotsof power. If a motor runs lean at idle itneeds fuel. Imagine what it requires at higher rpm's. It works and is for modded cars that the owners do not want or cannot afford MPI. I will be glad to discuss thidthis  with any members. Mark315-253-6088

I ran a green secondary until I came aross a 900cc. Then I got a phone call from a Canadanian member who told me that the Colts by Mitsubishi used a 900cc secondary that pops into our cars. It saves a little fuel over the green secondary. As has been ststed above this mod is for cars that have plenty of mods already and do not want to go to MPI for one reason or another. I also had an sds system with two 480cc injectors mounted in the intake. Mark

Tim I wish I could have been more specefic. I only repeated what the Canadian fellow told me on the phone. The fact is that you can run a 1000cc secondary as a primary just as well. I happened to have the paperwork with the 900cc (flowsheet) and it worked well so I felt anything bigger as overkill. I have friends that work in the dismantling business who may be able to help. I'll check it out.Mark

I never got to work with a 2nd generation mas but am confidant one woud work with the properinjector and add even more power.

Mark it's nice to see that I am not alone. I had heard that it couldn't be done so many times that I just enjoyed what I had. I went with the 900cc to save a bit as far as gas mileage went. Modding a 2nd generation mas is the next step. Since I had an SDS 2 injector setup with the additional injectors mounted in the intake at the y's I am sure the 2nd gen mas would work and supply even greater gains forthe MPI shy. Mark

By opening the unmetered side of a 1 G mas from two cylinders to one large oval the G54B will draw in lots more air allowing the use of a 900cc primary injector. These 900cc injectors were used on the Colts using throttle body's as their secondaries. With the extra air being drawn in you will NOT wash the cylinder walls with fuel. I ended up running a 900cc primary along with a 1080cc secondary and two 480cc additional injectors with the stock intake. The mods to this intake were that the TB and intake mouth were bored to 52mm though I do not believe this is necesary. I also bypassed all of the coolant I could to keep the intake carge as cool as possible. MPI is not possible for a great majority due to cost alone. I was running a total of 2940cc's of gas/minute whuch kept my 20G happy even at 25 psi. Mark

Cool Mike. The header is new this time around? Did you run a ported stock before or some other header?

I've run a 16G/19C and now a 20G all with Kelly's 3" pipes and the WalkerDynomax 3" in & out muffler and wouldn't do it differently. Mark

Nice car! Try www.sdsefi.com and consider additional injectors installed in the manifold.Inexpensive!

I cannot comment on something that I am not knowledgeable about. I will say that we should treat each other as brothers and as Jesus said to turn the other cheek. If you don't like what a fellow member says about you just forget it and do not respond about it.

I bought my Quest with 71k miles on it and I bought it from the second FEMALE owner. She showed me a receipt for a $1700. rebuild @ 61k miles. By 76k miles I had fried the tranny. A few 2500rpm hole shats was all it took. I would have loved to have an auto Quest. I just don't need to be shifting all the tima as I am a bit older that most here and I have a very bad back that shifting bothers. I tracked down the guy who rebuilt the tranny and he said it might handle a 100HP 2 liter car(no torque). After looking for a HP kit to rebuild the trannywhich I could not find I switched it to a 5-speed. Another nice feature with the auto is the 32% reduction in the final drive ratio in OD compared to the 5-speed @ 15%. An auto could have a 4.22 rear gear and still be lower in OD than a stick with the stock 3.53 in OD. Imagine brake torquing the built motor to 2500 with the 4.22's and dropping the gas pedal. WOW it would hook better than a stick and fly! Alas it was/is not to be. I have a 5-speed in there now.Mark