Draggin_Quest

Hey I am in need of the plugs for the stock stereo, my wiring harness got hacked behind the stereo and I want to put the stock stereo back in but don't have the plugs. How much would you want for the plugs and 10" of wire left on them? Thanks

Pics of the wheels? Any damage to them?

Still have the 3" exhaust? If so what would your price be shipped to 83686? Thanks

This is a perfect look in my book. Those Do Lucks are about the only after market wheel I think I would consider and as they are no longer available I will be sticking with stock. This height and stance are perfect IMO, thanks for the post and specs. Where did the spacers come from?

Got any pics of the interior with the new LED's?

I am looking for the plugs for the radio wiring harness. Mine got cut off and misplaced. I need the plugs with 6-10 inches of wire still attached so I can splice them into my harness. PM me with a price if you have them. Thanks!

Sorry to hear. Does that mean the 2 you had left for sale are bad as well? I am in need of one of these when you have one available. Thanks.

I am interested in one as well. Please PM me when available.

Any interest in shipping the exhaust to 83686?

What is the current price on the hard pipes and IC? Is the IC modded or stock?

No I have not, how does one go about doing that?

How did you go about fixing it? Replace or is there a way to repair it? Also where in the heck is it?

Hey Guys, Long time member here, haven't been active for the past few years but I still have my car tucked nicely in the garage. Anyway I am having an issue with WOT runs that I can't seem to figure out. If I stomp on the gas everything goes fine until I get to full boost, then the car starts to stumble and buck wildly. It goes from full power to no power and then back to full in a second or so. Makes the whole car buck like crazy and I know it can't be good for it. If I ease into the gas and let the turbo spool slowly it doesn't seem to do it, but if the turbo spools in a hurry, once it gets to max pressure it seems to happen everytime. Not too big a deal for normal driving but I would like to figure out what is wrong with it and fix it if I can. The car gets driven less than 5 times per year for the past few years. Has less than 30k on the clock and everything is in good shape. Any ideas on what is causing my issue? Thanks!

Can I see a pic of the tires? Are these for the 8 inch rims?

Do you have the fusible link box? I'm in Caldwell I could come pick it up.

I used paint stripper from wal mart. I couldn't find the aircraft stripper that everyone uses so I just bought paint stripper. It's called stripper and it comes in an orange can. The chrome paint is actual rim paint that I found at Autozone, it is made specifically for rims so it should hold up just fine. I haven't driven with it yet cause I have been too busy to get the car out of the garage. But I am going to an autocross competition tomorrow so we'll see how the paint holds up. Draggin_Quest

That wheel probably took three to four hours of straight work. The others shouldn't take quite as long since I know what I'm doing now. The biggest pain in the butt was masking the wheel for painting. The sanding really wasn't as bad as I thought. I didn't sand the actual spokes except for where there were blemishes. I mainly just sanded the lip. I polished the spokes and they look just as good as the polished lip without sanding the spokes. The more I look at the wheel the more glad I am that I did this. It looks really good in lots of different lights. Also the polished lip is great! I think I am going to leave the caps chrome. Optimus bought little mitsu tirangles to put on all of his caps and that looks really good, but I don't want to completly copy him. Anyway, thanks for looking and for the comments! Draggin_Quest

Well I got started on my rims yesterday and I got the first one finished today. It turned out really good. It looks a lot better than it does in this pic but this gives an idea of what I did. I got this idea from Optimusprime. Before http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wOTcyOTM3NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg After http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wOTcyOTM4NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg On the Car http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wOTcyOTM5NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg New Rear Original Front http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wOTcyOTQwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg Basically I stripped the entire wheel then painted in between the spokes black, painted the middle of the spokes chrome and then polished the whole wheel. It turned out really nice and I like it a lot better than stock. The polished lip is beautiful! I am thinking I might paint the center cap black instead of chrome but I'm not sure yet. So what do you guys think? Draggin_Quest

I don't really have an idea on a double 12 inch box, but I just thought I would let you know... I have one twelve inch in my car and I have found it sounds the best aimed at the back of the car, not up at the hach glass. So you might want to consider that route too. Just my .02 Draggin_Quest

I have a 10 inch in the back of my Quest and I didn't opt to go with the RCA. I have the stock radio too. I'm pretty sure they just spliced into the output from the back of the radio and then they just ran speaker wire to the box and hooked up the wires. Works pretty well. Draggin_Quest

Yeah I thought about a capacitor, but I already spent too much money on the setup and the clock really doesn't bother me. The headlights are a little dim for my taste but that just gives me an excuse to buy the hyper white lights I have been wanting. I thought about going with a twelve instead of the ten, but I decided on the ten because it would be a smaller box and I wanted some trunk space, and the ten responds a little faster and punchier on the type of music I listen to, I'm not that into hip-hop. I will take some pics tomorrow, I don't have anywhere to host them so I'll just e-mail them to you. Draggin_Quest

Hey RobM, I wanted the same thing. The ability to play cd's and still have my steering wheel controls. I tried the older eclipse cd player route but I never found a decent one for a very good price. If that is the way you want to go then it has to be a 90-92 Mitsu Eclipse, it actually comes in two pieces. I found a different way though. I bought a FM Modulated CD changer instead. It plugs in to the antenae and plays through and empty radio station of your choosing. Mine is a 12 disc and it has a little control panel that I mounted right below the stock radio, it also came with a remote. So now I can play cds through the stock radio and keep my radio controls. Hope this helps. Draggin_Quest

Hey guys, I just thought I would post this for anyone that is thinking about doing the same. I have wanted a sub for a long time but a few things were worrying me. I was concerned about how much power it would draw off the battery, and I was concerned about the sound I would get. Well I finally crakced and just bought one. I actually got the sub from a friend it is an MTX 10" Terminator sub, it's pretty old but it still works fine. I then bought a Kenwood 250 watt amp and a box for the sub and had it all installed. I had them put it in the trunk aimed up at the glass and angled slightly to the rear of the car. It sounds awesome!!! I didn't think a 10 would give me much thump, but it is pretty decent. It really depends on the music and the way it is mixed, but on songs where the bass is minimal it fills the sound out very nicely and on heavy bass songs like hip-hop stuff it thumps really well. Before I bought the sub I bought two 6x9 speaker boxes and some kenwood 6x9's and mounted them on the trunk cover aimed up at the glass. The 6x9's have amazing clarity but absoloutely no low end. As I was reading up on speakers I found that the origianal speakers in the car are called coaxial speakers and they are designed to respond to both high and low end. So when I installed the new speakers I lost the low end I used to have. So I got this sub and now I have the best of both worlds. The old speakers would distort when they bass was really loud but now I have gotten rid of that. I have noticed some extra draw from the battery. At night when everything is going the lights are a bit dim and the clock light flickers in time with the thump of the sub, but the only thing that has slightly bothered me is the headlights being dimmer, but it's not that bad. So anyway, this is just for anyone that is thinking about getting a sub but have some doubts or concerns. I hope this answers some of the doubts and if anybody has any questions feel free to ask. Draggin_Quest

Thanks for all the advice everbody. I just have one more question. How big of a box am I going to need for a 12? How big for a 10? I have a guitar that I caryy in my trunk a lot so I have to be able to fit that in the trunk. I mounted the cd changer on the back of the rear pass seat, so I can just flip the seat down to change cds. So I am going to put the sub on the drivers side of the trunk. So how big does it need to be? Thanks Draggin_Quest

How much does a 10" put out? I don't want to rattle the windows or anything just a really good low end and maybe enough to thump when I want it to. But I only have enough room for 1 sub. So will a 10" put out enough or do I need a 12"? How much is Tim C's alternator? how hard is it to install? Thanks Draggin_Quest