89onaquest

Right now joe is making an adapter/spacer. it has the regular bolt holes to bolt to housing, and a second set of holes to angle the stock outlet more appropriately. tools required to make... drill press drill bit hole bit Die (8X1.25) and 1/2" plate aluminum 2 outlet gaskets very quick, very easy, and all stock.

sorry, but most states now have laws against undercar lighting. And automatically the states that do allow it no, red, blue, orange, and possibly yellow. just dead weight in many minds here... we are more for go... no R I C E please... we no likie uncle bens here...

No, they already have the 2.6-W58 adapter... Us 2.0 guys are looking for a break ;D

a summit catalog has rim size suggestions with the drag tires...

the 2.0 and 2.6 have 2 different bolt patterns. Hell the 2.0 has two bolt patterns. Narrow and Wide. Most USDM 2.0 are narrow pattern. So a wide 2.0/2.6 pattern is useless. I asked them specifically for a plate that would bolt to a 2.0 mitsu. They said they do not have one.

We (Joe and I) have everything on our end figured out the way they are going to get done already. The last real part to be done is the new waterneck outlet, it needs a 30* bend aluminum tube welded on. That will but the thermostat back in factory position, stock placed sensors, just a modded water neck outlet. Joe is waiting on the last parts to come in now. The turbo rebuild kit, wire loom, and header wrap (going to run some harness wires through a tube) and put the header wrap as a heat barrier to protect them. The "drop" placement of the turbo is for simple installation, nothing more nothing less. It is a modded DSM manifold.

they will have suggested rim widths on the tire description. www.tirerack.com if no one else will have it.

Personally I could care less about your "Talon" it's not a quest, and is not a part of this solution process. I will pay attention when you have somthing worth listening too. If you think bending up tubing, going through a routing nightmare is fun, hell go for it. I will not feel sorry for you when you need to work on that part of the cooling system, or on that side of the engine. Imagine a hose connector goes out behind the head... I feel no pity because of the extreme angles your going to have to do to get to those hose clamps. I never said this was the only way. But it sure seems a whole lot easier, and definately easier to service. No remote thermostat needed, 4 hose clamps in the wide open. A very cheap upper radiator hose that is availible everywhere. But hell, what do I know right? :

No need for the attitude. The same engineering can and does go into both cars, thay are afterall both made by Mitsubishi. If I recall correctly, the Aussie/Japan version with the 2.0, did have this configuration. Kinda where I got the idea. Why reinvent the wheel? And I simply do not see how or why someone would go through the hastle of bending multiple pieces of tubing to do something that is very visibly much easier to do/solve. And we are not talking about a DSM engine compartment, we are talking about the Quest's. And yes, in the DSM compartment, it is actually very roomy under the intake. Not nearly so with the engine facing N-S. in a Quest compartment. And even with moving the engine forward 2" there is still minimal room at best behind the head, so why make things more complicated? I did not say that this was/is the only way to do it, but it seems, looks and sounds much easier then yours. And if someone DID put in A/C that idea goes right out the window. Just off hand I see no less then at least 7 90* bends (or equall that equivilent for direction) that have to be dealt with to route it under the intake, plus it being a !@#$% to do anything with the starter if it goes out, (that includes replacing the clutch) replacing the knock sensor, basically dealing with anything on that side of the engine below the intake manifold. So if you plan on doing the complete swap, and having EVERYTHING functional, do it once, and not worry about it. Yes, A/C will be installed on this vehicle eventually. So no, your way was never even considered. So, I again say, is the suggestion I made the only way to do it? By all means no it is not, I never said it was. But is it the easiest, least restrictive and more "ease of repair/service" in the future way... at least I think so. You have 1 90* rubber hose bend, 1 upper radiator hose (from another vehicle) that fits perfect, and a length of cheap ($8) metal tube. Your done.

Ok... There is no room under the intake manifold. That is where the starter resides, as well as the Knock sensor, the motor mount plates, the steering box... get the idea? That is also there the outlets for the Quest heater core at located. The stock DSM had the metal piping going over/under the manifold, so thier engineers must have known something we do not. I suggested using metal tubing (such as 1.25" Conduit) because it can resist heat soak, and not be too terribly effected by the proximity of the exhaust manifold. You just have to use pieces of fexible hose to connect things up. Right now Joe and I are looking at making an adapter plate out of aluminum, that will be welded to the stock upper outlet, that will have relocated bolt holes to re-angle the pipe more straight out the side to the passanger firewall. We are also dealing with drilling 3" holes in the radiator core support to run the 2.5" zinc washed intercooler piping through as well. Joe got another part of the exhaust today, the resonator, so it is now welded to the center pipe of his "in fabrication" exhaust. Just in case anyone is interested, it is all 3" mandrel 304 stainless. And including the 3" resonator, and 3" Megan N1 muffler the entire system is under $250, including the 2.5" 304 stainless down pipe with flex section and 304 S/S exhaust hangers. Just add welding if you do not have a welder. Not to shabby... Pics to be taken once done.

emailed... no makie.

That's no big deal. The side outlet plug is removible. the wateroutlet neck on the back of the block is the trouble... though will have to go to junk yard now to look at that pipe too.... may just be a different thermostat outlet neck...

That is an option. But to Joe, that is the wrong way to do it.

That's a go to court and win... wrong description...

I would bet Bear brakes or Wilwood would have the upgrade...

Yeah the diagram is missing 3 needed measurements. two caliper bracket holes spacing, and locating info for the 2 bottom caliper bracket holes in relation to anything. The rest someone can figure out if they pursue doing the swap. If I were to guess, the adapter plates are 1/2" thick. The spacers (look like the kind/type avail in auto stores everywhere) 3/16".

worked for me...

an overly tighened spindle nut can do that as well. an overlay of possible problems that can cause that... bad bushings bad lower ball joints bad wheel bearings bad inner tie rod ends bad outer tie rod ends dragging brakes steering box out of adjustment (loose) uneven roads Just some things to look at...

Actually an ex member here did create a smooth cowl hood. He is going to mount 2 guages under the cowl on the drivers side. Practically invisible from outside the car, but as soon as you sit in it, they are in clear view and protected from the elements somewhat.

Yes the splitter looks nice but you also have to look at the functionality of the air dam. Physics says all objects take the path of least resistance (especially gasses- IE air). So you look at the stock bottom lip, and you can see it goes pretty much to the base of the intercooler. This helps ELMINATE an escape path for air to AVOID the intercooler. Unfourtunately, D's design OPENS that ENTIRE area up, removing all resistance, allowing air to hit the intercooler and flow down its face, under, or otherwise around in, not THROUGH it. This action completely negates the purpose of the intercooler. Yes air WILL STILL flow through, but not nearly as much if you remove its availible escape paths. Just some food for thought... Look cool, or funtionality...

Joe has a 1G DSM (90) GST Engine harness and ECU coming now. Got shipped today as a matter of fact. (Oct 22) from Ontario? so he is hoping 3-4 days at the most. Funny thing is, he just sold he Mega Squirt to a guy in Vancouver not 2 days ago... He has found a 92/93 GSX with a bad motor near him and is tring to get pics and negotiate a price. The seller has been tring to sell it for nearly a year, and nothing. So Joe is tring to get it for 7-800 bucks... Then not only would he have a DSM powered 'Quest, but a good GSX at his whim for an engine build up... I hate him... ;D

well hell even at 240 it was still cheaper then what that guy was selling them for! ;D Was never really all that good at math... ???

Uh hella good news for anyone wanting to do the MR2 AGX... Email these people here... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=7928020142 Because Joe did and asked about 4 rear struts... Price he was quoted... "How much for 4 rear struts. It sounds weird, but I only need 4 of the rears." Reply "will cost you $150.00 plus shipping" Yes 150! for 4 rears!... 30 S&H... complete ADJUSTABLE Strut Coil over for $430? Can you say DAMN! And give credit where it is due for sharing...

That was for the Conquest set up... not MR2.