chicagoslick

gary...

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removed!!!

If there are alternate fans that fit without modification from the parts store let me know. thanks

Sorry for terminology confusion. Â Also do a search on "battery regulator / isolator". This will give more information and possible way's of doing what you want. Still look at upgrading the electrical system. good luck, gary

E-Mann is right the battery regulator / isolator is the best way to go if you are going to run 2 batteries. An upgraded alternator and / or electrical system is still recommended. Good luck, gary

MSD 2222 Summit Racing online catalog. gary

Starquestpilot is right sounds like antenna turn on instead of amp turn on. gary

Kurt, I have tried this and unfortunately in the Starquest it does not work well. There is too much distortion and feedback. I suspect it is from the electrical system being marginal from the factory. I would upgrade the head unit and the sky is the limit. You have already upgraded the alternator so power should not be an issue as long as the rest of the electrical system and the car is functioning properly. good luck gary

This is tough becouse great sound systems are weight. Also by removing most of your interior you've affected how well your system will sound. If your trying to create a race car then delete the stereo system all together. Another alternative would be to create a mobile sound system that can be removed easily when you race. Talk more about what your intentions are as far as the car and how it is driven. Good luck. gary

5.25 doors 6.5 rear Run seperates they will give you the best sound if driven with the right amount of power from a good amp. Place the tweeters facing your listening position. Tweeters are directional and will need to be placed for your listening environment. Do not waste your time if you do not plan on addressing your electrical system! This is in no way to discourage you. My opinion is that the electrical system is inadequate and should be looked at if you are upgrading your sound system or not. Search through previous postings on electrical system if you need more help or let me know. gary

"A cap is just as hard on the electrical system as an amp. Something to consider, a cap is capable of instantaneous power discharge, but it's also capable of instantaneous power draw. So, in all reality, the alternator has to work just as hard if not harder, to run a system utilizing caps." A cap charges like a battery. It is not instantaneous. I will say it is faster than a battery while charging, though. As far as a cap causing an alternator to work harder, it actually will help it work easier. Once the cap is charged it will help absorb spikes in power draw that the battery / alternator can not keep up with. good luck, gary "Nope, actually the reason for the resistor to charge a cap is because of it's ability to instantly charge. If it were a slow charge device, it would be defeating it's purpose of storing peak on demand current, as after it sustained an amp through a transient burst, it wouldn't have the ability to charge back up for the next transient. A large cap's initial charge rate is fast enough to possibly blow most inline fuses. And as far as it not being a burden on an battery or alternator, think of it this way. Any electrical device poses a load potential. A cap is not a 'free' load device, it requires current to put out current. That would be like saying adding a second battery to an alternator won't hinder the alternator's performance. The alternator would have to work to charge are secondary storage devices. If the alternator has a tough time keeping the voltage of the car at 14.4volts, the cap isn't going to help. The cap will merely 'attempt' to sustain a steady 14.4volts to the amp, not the rest of the car. " Do a search on the internet on capacitors and there charge rate. You will better understand a capacitor and its characteristics. I'm not here to make anyone look ignorant or stupid. I just want people to be better educated about the information they receive. I agree as far as the electrical system. It should be upgraded anytime you attempt to run high power amps. gary

"A cap is just as hard on the electrical system as an amp. Something to consider, a cap is capable of instantaneous power discharge, but it's also capable of instantaneous power draw. So, in all reality, the alternator has to work just as hard if not harder, to run a system utilizing caps." A cap charges like a battery. It is not instantaneous. I will say it is faster than a battery while charging, though. As far as a cap causing an alternator to work harder, it actually will help it work easier. Once the cap is charged it will help absorb spikes in power draw that the battery / alternator can not keep up with. good luck, gary

I have the old version of HKS cat back that was 65mm. These are probably getting hard to find. Question? Has anyone encountered problems with clearance at the rear near the axle? I have had my car in the exhaust shop twice to try and fix the rattle and rub. I've had the exhaust ovaled to help with clearance, no luck. I would imagine 3" has to be even tighter. A little of background info on my car might explain the lack of room. My car has the tokico struts installed and suspension techniques springs. Also using suspension techniques front and rear sway bars. Additional 150lbs of weight in the rear of car ( stereo equipment ). (Car lowered by almost 2" with suspension and weight additions) Any ideas and fit of the 3" on similiar suspension layouts. thanks in advance, gary

Jess, I believe you can get 6.5 up front in the door panels. I've heard of people getting them to fit. I used Orion HCCA 5.25 seperates up front and Orion HCCA 6.5 seperates in the rear in my install. Run alot of clean power to your speakers and keep the gains down and you should have a great system. As far as 10" and 12" speakers go I would go for the 12". It is a far better speaker for all around bass response. Hits much better in low frequency (30hz and lower) and flexes up to 80 hz as well as a 10". This is not to say 10" speakers are not great there just not as flexible as a 12"s. I'm also sure there are 10" speakers rated better than 12"s, but generally speaking 12"s are better. I have only entered a couple of sound off competitions and I am a sound quality person not a boom or loudness person. I've built 5 strong stereo systems and have been praised by my peers at local sound offs with my ingenuity. All my systems have focused on the seperates type idea long before there were seperates for sale. good luck again, gary

I hate to break up your guy's conversation, I just wanted to let you know you have plenty of room to put a 10" or 12" in the back and still have room. I have a 15" with an amp rack with 2 amps a capacitor and a cd changer mounted. I also have crossover networks and custom lighting. This all installed with the factory components intact. Spare tire, carpeting and the hatch cover inplace. You will however have to be very resourceful with the space. There really is not alot to waste if you want to squeeze alot back there. I still have full use of my back seats as well. When my hatch is closed and the rear seats are up you can not tell I have anything. When I'm done putting my car back together I will post pictures. A question I can answer for you about Tim's alternator is that it puts out 110 amps and cost about $220. It comes with a mounting bracket and wiring harness and directions. He also has a 140 amp upgrade ( which I have ) that mounts the same with the same components. I have been very impressed with the alternator. I have ran more than 2000 watts from my system and have had no problems. Good luck with how your system turns out. By the way its not how many speakers or amps you run but the quality and that sounds like the direction your headed. Good luck again, gary

Definetly dont go more than 50 shot and make sure its wet. Turbocharged cars do not like dry nitrous. good luck gary

Definitely install the sway bars they are a great addition. If you have the stock springs and struts they should be upgraded as well. A fine tuned suspension involves many components. I have probably covered most of them in previous post. good luck, gary

The Suspension Techniques sway bars are great. I have a set on my quest. Before I replaced my sway bars I tried a set of poly bushings. You can hardly notice much difference. I have replaced struts, springs, numerous assorted bushings, tie-rods and sway bars. I was just offering a cost effective upgrade to the original equipment. You can buy the poly bushings at Autozone for less than $20. I would not spend the money on new sway bars if I did not have the struts and springs replaced first. Good luck however things go! gary

heefner was right. Try the poly bushings with the stock bars. It will make a huge difference. Like I said the stock sway bars are pretty strong to start with they just have weak / soft rubber bushings. Age has not helped them I'm sure. good luck gary

Suspension Techniques components are top quality items. They do an excellent job manufacturing the parts they sell. Instead of changing sway bars try replacing the rubber bushings with poly bushings. This will make a huge difference. The sway bars on the starquest are actually pretty stout. The rubber bushings used were very soft and / or weak. good luck, gary

Tim C. can hook you up with a 140amp version of the cs130 alternator. I bought one and it works great. I also am running a red top optima battery. By the way I'm running a Rockford fosgate 600.4 and a bd1000a.1 amps, 2-sets of Orion hcca's seperates (5s and 6s) and a Rockford Fosgate 15 (just under 2000watts total system) no problems. gary

This may have been asked before, how about a video's section. Video's, pictures, hyperlinks, and any other multimedia pertaining to starquest and racing. thanks, gary