nc_beagle

Oh, I just realized what I'd used for a prompt. Well, to better answer your question, there is a blown head gasket, but we're using the opportunity to also modify a few things. It's possible the word "rebuild" overstates what I'm actually doing, but we are do have some changes in mind too. Plus the body work, interior restoration, and repaint.

I just wanted to see what it would say. I'm working with a mechanic and am following his lead.

I asked it to design a modern day version of the Conquest. While what it created looked to me more like a Dodge version of a Mustang, the quality of the image was really good. At first it just did a text response and noted some of what needed to be included in a modern version. I thought it was interesting. I wish I could insert the picture but I've had trouble posting images of any size. I didn't really give it a very long prompt. 🧬 Core Philosophy Retro-inspired sports coupe Turbocharged rear-wheel-drive performance Driver-focused cockpit Lightweight with modern tech and materials Competes with the Toyota GR86, Nissan Z, and Ford Mustang EcoBoost 🚗 Exterior Design Design Language: Neo-retro with aggressive wedge styling Key Features: Wide, low stance with flared fenders (like the original) Pop-up-style LED headlights (modern reinterpretation with flush-fitting DRLs) Deep front air dam, hood vents, and rear ducktail spoiler Frameless windows and pillarless roofline Available in classic metallics (Graphite Silver, Turbo Red, Starfire White) Wheels: 19” forged alloys (optional 20”), with a deep dish rear 🔧 Performance & Drivetrain Engine: 2.4L Turbocharged Inline-4 (based on Stellantis Hurricane platform) Output: 330–375 hp / 340 lb-ft torque Drivetrain: Rear-wheel drive (optional AWD performance trim) Transmission: 6-speed manual (standard) 8-speed automatic (optional) 0–60 mph: 4.5–4.7 seconds Top Speed: ~165 mph Curb Weight: ~3,200 lbs Chassis: Lightweight aluminum architecture Fully independent suspension Optional adaptive dampers and track package 🛋️ Interior Design Cockpit-Style Interior: Digital gauge cluster with analog-inspired boost and RPM gauges Alcantara and leather bucket seats with red stitching Retro-style toggle switches with modern infotainment 10.1” center touchscreen with wireless CarPlay/Android Auto Manual handbrake and short-throw shifter Options: Lightweight performance interior (deletes rear seats) Premium audio (Harman/Kardon) HUD and track telemetry system 🔒 Safety & Tech Advanced Driver Assistance (ADAS) suite: Blind Spot Monitoring Lane Keep Assist Forward Collision Warning Reversing camera with surround-view option Over-the-air updates and drive mode tuning 💰 Pricing (Estimated) Base RWD Manual: $36,000 Performance Manual: $42,000 AWD or Premium Trim: $48,000+ 🏁 Special Editions Conquest TSi “Turbo Legacy” Matte black with retro decals Bronze wheels Lightweight carbon accents 400 hp performance tune Limited run: 500 units

I got curious what instructions ChatGPT would give me for rebuilding a G54B with a blown head gasket. I'm not experienced enough to know what it may have missed but it was pretty impressive how it laid out the steps (though I assume they would apply to most any engine.) It's answer is below -------------- Rebuilding a Mitsubishi G54B engine (2.6L inline-4, part of the Astron family) with a blown head gasket involves careful disassembly, inspection, machining, and reassembly. Here's a comprehensive step-by-step guide: 🔧 Tools & Equipment You'll Need: Socket and wrench set (metric) Torque wrench Engine hoist or crane (optional but ideal for full removal) Engine stand Gasket scraper and razor blades Plastigauge (for bearing clearance) Micrometer and dial bore gauge (for measuring tolerances) Service manual (for torque specs and procedures) Cleaning tools (solvent, rags, wire brush) Sealant (for specific gaskets if needed) Replacement parts (see list below) 🧰 Parts You'll Likely Need: Full engine gasket set (includes head gasket) New head bolts (recommended — often TTY) Piston rings Main and rod bearings Timing chain or belt (depending on year/version) Oil pump (inspect and replace if worn) Thermostat, hoses, and belts (replace if aged) Fluids: oil, coolant, assembly lube 🔩 Step-by-Step Engine Rebuild Process 1. Engine Removal (if rebuilding fully) Disconnect battery. Drain all fluids — oil and coolant. Label and disconnect all hoses, wiring, and sensors. Remove intake and exhaust manifolds. Detach engine from transmission. Remove engine mounts and lift engine using hoist. Mount engine on a stand. 2. Cylinder Head Removal Remove valve cover. Loosen head bolts in reverse sequence (to prevent warping). Remove cylinder head — inspect for warping or cracks. Inspect valves, valve seats, and guides. Check camshaft wear (if overhead cam). 3. Disassembly of Bottom End Remove oil pan. Unbolt connecting rod caps and remove pistons. Remove timing components. Unbolt and remove crankshaft. Remove old bearings. Clean all parts thoroughly. 4. Inspection and Machining Cylinder Head: Check for flatness (max ~0.002" warpage). Resurface if needed. Check valve guides/seals and do a valve job if needed. Block: Inspect cylinder walls for scoring. Measure bore size and taper. Hone or bore cylinders if needed (if so, use oversized pistons/rings). Crankshaft: Check for scoring and roundness. Polish or grind and use matching size bearings. 5. Reassembly 🧽 Preparation: Clean block and oil passages. Use assembly lube on bearings and cam lobes. Verify torque specs using the service manual. ➤ Bottom End: Install crankshaft with new main bearings. Torque main caps to spec. Install pistons with new rings (use ring compressor). Torque rod caps to spec. Check crank end play and rod side clearance. ➤ Top End: Install new head gasket. Install cylinder head, torque in sequence to spec. Install timing components (align marks carefully). Install rocker arms/lifters/camshaft (if removed). Adjust valve lash if applicable. 6. Final Assembly Install oil pump, oil pan, valve cover. Install intake and exhaust manifolds. Replace water pump and thermostat if old. Reconnect engine wiring and hoses. Reinstall engine into vehicle. Reconnect transmission, mounts, etc. 7. Initial Startup & Break-In Fill with fresh oil and coolant. Prime oil system (disable ignition and crank engine). Start and run at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes to break in cam and rings. Monitor for leaks, strange noises, or overheating. Change oil and filter after ~500 miles. ✅ Tips: Use OEM-quality gaskets and parts where possible. Keep your service manual nearby — torque specs and sequences are critical. Take photos during disassembly to help with reassembly. Label every wire and vacuum hose. If you need torque specs or diagrams for the G54B engine (e.g., head bolt torque or sequence), I can provide those too. Just let me know the specific year and model it's from.

Anyone gotten a replica window sticker for their car? I was thinking about it and found this site: Print Automotive Window Stickers | MonroneyLabels.com. I didn't enter my VIN yet though as I wanted to be sure there wasn't any risk in doing so.

https://ebay.us/m/d6Ai5M

HURRICANE H/O-Powered Chrysler Conquest Unleashed - MoparInsiders It's just a rendering but it's an interesting concept. At $11-14K for the crate engine, though, I'll just have to be happy with fixing what it came with.

Has an 80s and 90s exhibit starting next month. Think they'll have a Conquest? Totally Awesome! Cars and Culture of the ’80s and ’90s — Petersen Automotive Museum If anyone goes, please report back here! It's a 2400 mile drive for me--one way--so I likely will not be there.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1986-plymouth-conquest-2/ It says 36K miles on a 1986.

Wow, that's cool. I ran across my old keychain from my 1987 LeBaron GTS that had the metal Pentastar logo and a leather flap with instructions on how to mail the keys to a box in Michigan if found.

I know this isn't a StarQuest, but this is blowing my mind. Must be an Element cult out there. No Reserve: 758-Mile 2004 Honda Element EX 4WD for sale on BaT Auctions - ending March 6 (Lot #182,723) | Bring a Trailer

Don't see these very often. No Reserve: 37k-Mile 1985 Plymouth Conquest 5-Speed for sale on BaT Auctions - ending February 25 (Lot #181,635) | Bring a Trailer

OK, I'll need to pick up a bleeder kit. Do you recommend one? The ones on the Autozone website haven't gotten very good reviews. That's the closest parts store to me.

OK, I checked the brake fluid reservoir. I could see fluid down in it (unless it was a bubble) but it was too low to reach the Min mark on the dipstick. Is that low enough to cause the light to come on? Regardless, I need to add some. The Autozone website says both DOT 3 and DOT 4 "fit" the car. Is there a preference and if I use a different number from what's already in there, is it a problem? I don't know what's in it right now.

Thanks everyone. As soon as I can swim out to my car, I'll check all of your suggestions and report back!

Recently, my in-dash parking brake light has decided to stay on, even when I fully release the parking brake. Where should I start? Is there a sensor that's gone bad? It doesn't seem that the brake is still engaged, though it's possible it is slightly? I don't notice anything when driving. But, I have noticed a bit of a moan when going in reverse that I think is new.

It was pretty small, compared to the tray. It wasn't holding a charge so I took it back. Their computer said Size 26, which I didn't even know existed. This one fit exactly. Haven't driven it yet.

I don't know if I picked this one out or if the Autozone Computer did, but here's what I have in the car. Duralast Battery BCI Group Size 51 500 CCA 51-DL

I feel like I asked this before but can't find my post, or anyone else who has asked the question. I want to be sure I have the right battery, because I think (after a year) I maybe didn't. What group size does everyone have? Also, what CCA? Thanks! Mark

Thanks. And that's good because I dont seem to be able to find the same tire in the correct size.

When getting new tires for my 1987 Conquest with SHP, I accidentally ordered and installed 245/50/VR16 on the rear even though I'd seen that 245/45/VR16 is how it came. I've had them for over a year (though not a ton of miles) and haven't necessarily noticed any problems, but am willing to reorder the correct size if I should. Am I ok as is? The car is on coilovers, if that factors into a recommendation. Thanks, Mark

https://www.ebay.com/itm/356344711302?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dzsfjcraqma&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=EheusCIJRmC&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/267088082269?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=mX-ZRgC0TGC&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=EheusCIJRmC&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Based on TexasQuest's response, I wonder if I have a slightly milder version of the same problem with the ETACS. I posted it elsewhere, but I've had the car die on the road then have zero power when the key is turned. But, I've also had issues with the alarm going off when I unlock the car with the key.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/305881816990?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=EYr1BCJsTGC&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=EheusCIJRmC&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Seems like eBay sellers don't put much effort into descriptions and photos.

Is it by special request with Boosted Diamonds? I don't see seats on their site. It's mostly carbon fiber stuff? Thanks, Mark