theastronaut

I parted out a rusty '66 C10 a few years ago and it was unbelievable the amount of people that called, wanted a part, then would call back and say that they couldn't go through since the wife had other plans for the money. So that's my usual way to end a post now lol. It's definitely a car that could get away with rolling the odometer back 100k, nobody would suspect it. Supposedly it was single-family owned until January of this year but I've been unable to make contact with a previous owner to confirm that. Was told that the son of the original owner traded it in. I did find the name of the previous owner and found him on Facebook but can't get him to reply to my messages to learn more about its history. I didn't think to take frame pics, it is 100% solid underneath. One rail does have some dents from a poorly placed floor jack, nothing major though. Fenderwells are solid as is the trunk pan under the spare. The engine compartment could stand to be cleaned up but I didn't want to spray it down and get the connectors/wiring wet. Thanks! Yeah I've only had it about 6 months. It was a spur of the moment purchase... I'd seen the car on Craigslist and thought that I couldn't afford it, and his pictures were terrible so the car didnt look like it was worth his asking price so I forgot about it. A few weeks later I'm driving and pass a red Conquest and did a double take and wanted to chase it down but it was a divided highway. I mentioned it to a friend and we thought that it could be the same car and decide to go look at it, just to look. Turned out to be the same car that I'd passed and he was really ready to sell, his wife was pressuring him hard. I try to think of how much I had in my savings/checking and made an offer which I wasn't expecting him to accept. So I had to go to the bank and pay up the next day. I didn't need it and probably shouldn't have bought it because I have a few other project cars. I've had fun with it but its time to do the responsible thing and sell it and a few others so I can buy or build a house. I did buy a $400 buck project Conquest a couple weeks ago to replace it that I may keep and eventually build when I get the time and a place to work.

I've decided to sell my '87 Conquest since I'm looking to buy or build a house soon. I have too many cars so I need to thin the herd! Super clean car, great paint and interior. Wheels have been refinished. It's been my daily driver since April and I've put over 18,000 miles on it. Currently has 179k miles. Has gutted downtube cat and 2.5" exhaust, stainless muffler. Headlights upgraded to Cibie H4's with a 12g relay harness and 80/100 watt Hella bulbs. The factory harness was not cut or modified and it can be put back 100% stock if desired. Details of the lights/harness are here: http://www.starquest...owtopic=143752 AC/heat works, foot/face actuator needs to be repaired. Cruise control works but loses speed. I installed a perfect condition '87 steering wheel with Netallica's overlays for the radio controls. Front air dam is in good shape, no cracks/splits. GA/SC car so it has absolutely zero rust. Has been reliable over the last 18K miles, never once left me stranded or needed to be towed. Tires and brakes replaces less than 1000 miles ago. Asking $6500 but open to reasonable offers. Would like to see it go to a forum member or someone who knows the cars and won't abuse it or rice it out... More pics and details of my ownership here: http://www.starquest...howtopic=142399 Recent parts/maintenance (since last April). Injectors replaces with good used OEM pieces. Both passed ohm test. New injector clips (soldered, not crimped). Throttle body cleaned/resealed. TPS upgraded to Mazda unit. Plugs/wires/cap/rotor. Advance mechanism cleaned and lubricated. Vac advance replaced. Coolant temp sensor replaced. Vacuum hoses replaces as needed. Coil replace/upgraded. New underhood fuel filter. New slave cylinder. New drilled/slotted/zinc plated rotors. New brake pads. New rear calipers. New tires- Cooper Zeon RS3-A in original sizes. New A/C idler pulley bearing and A/C belt. Inspected in tank sock filter (sock and inside of tank is spotless) Oil/filter every 1500 miles. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/theastronaut/Random/5B5B264C-B3D8-4739-8037-728EC0C5E047.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/theastronaut/Random/B3C5E7D7-301F-42C0-A906-1C598708DCCE_1.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/theastronaut/Random/B8D23B4A-5027-4D7B-9080-0588C9DEB418_1.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/theastronaut/Random/A63E0A70-081D-4D73-ADCB-F5BDA52A6896.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/theastronaut/Random/08C202ED-49A4-44D6-ADCD-C83A02D95244.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/theastronaut/Random/9A18B027-9514-43B6-9647-A19758800081.jpg

Swapped the secondary injector out again for another and it's running great again. No stumbling or cutting out. The original secondary must have been clogged or on its way out. The idle is slightly pulsing now, not all the time though. It did it at maybe half of the redlights I stopped at on my way home, idled normally at the other half. Was idling fine once I got home.

Checked the fuel pressure gauge against the gauge on our air compressor... it's accurate. I have another used FPR and secondary injector that I will try tomorrow.

I'm at the Greenville Cars and Coffee every month, have taken the Quest a few times. Might be a good time to meet.

Could be, I haven't checked the accuracy of the gauge. Will do that. Haven't checked the ECU temp sensor.

Both were stock, the one I took off hasn't been crushed at all. I swapped to another (untested) secondary injector and it completely cuts off over about half throttle, same as if it is unplugged.

Stuck a used fuel pressure regulator on since I had an extra. Fuel pressure isn't dropping like it was, can't really tell if it's rising with boost since it won't boost more than 1-2 psi. FP is still too high, 50 at idle/driving. I checked and the current pump is an Airtex E8000. Still cutting out in boost, I will swap the secondary injector out next.

Yeah there's room for a few hundred more starquests lol. Parents have 17 acres, about 10 are open fields.

Bought another '87 this week. Found it on Craigslist for $400. Turbo was off and the compressor wheel was really chewed up so I doubt that the engine is good, atleast not the top end. Lots of extra parts in the trunk. May see how well the interior cleans up and if its acceptable I'll keep it to LS swap in the future. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/theastronaut/Mobile%20Uploads/image-23.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/theastronaut/Mobile%20Uploads/image-24.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/theastronaut/Mobile%20Uploads/image-25.jpg

Filter in the engine compartment at the frame rail changed, still dropping pressure in boost. Should I change the pump next or the fuel pressure regulator? I have a Walbro and an older but unused new made in USA stock replacement pump. Edit- current pump is unknown aftermarket?. Previous owner cut an access panel to change the pump at some point.

In tank strainer was squeaky clean, inside of the tank looked new as well. Will check the other filters as I have time.

It did clear out at run fine over 3500 at full throttle like it used to when the problem first started... also idled smooth and ran fine out of boost while I was out testing the fuel pressure.

I'm leaning towards two problems as well. I checked the fuel pressure just now. Started out at about 50 psi at idle and drops to about 30 as soon as it boost any. Does the same thing when driving. Vid of the fuel pressure check:

Yesterday it started cutting off completely at zero psi at a certain throttle position. If I pushed the gas a little more it would stutter like its been doing. It also started idling uneven and was pulsing when driving out of boost. It's completely undriveable now. I did check the fuel line at the tank, there's no cone filter since it has an aftermarket pump. Still waiting on a TB rebuild kit so I can rebuild it and tap it to check the fuel pressure. Still seems like an ignition problem with it cutting out completely and stuttering? I guess the injectors could be shutting down though.

Swapped out the coil for a newer/known good coil. No change. I ordered the parts to rebuild the throttle body so I'll do that and tap it so I can check the fuel pressure.

Swapped the pick up coil out and cleaned/lubed the advance parts. No change.

Pick up coil in the distribution has more resistance than it should, and has a burnt spot on the harness coming out of the distributor. Going to swap out the one that's in my '89 to see what it does.

Just re-read the thread and I'll have to say again that its the nicest SQ I've ever seen and probably will ever see. Looking forward to updates.

Ok, just took the MBC off and drove home with it limited to 7 psi, made it easier to stay out of boost. I noticed that it's fine with up to 3 psi. It's also breaking up in or out of boost over 4500 rpm, like the timing is erratic. It does seem to be smoother and more responsive since I did the injector clips earlier today.

2 ohms at about 80-85 degrees, testing as the service manual instructs. I'll test it again to see if resistance goes down with added heat as it should.

No, how is it checked?

It seems like it has no vacuum retard, so it senses that there is too much advance for boost and it massively pulls timing out. Maybe with the extra advance the knock sensor kicks in?

I've had a problem to develop on my '87 TSi. It is all stock except for a gutted pre-cat, and full 2.5" exhaust from there back. I have a MBC adjusted to 11-12 psi (judging by the stock boost gauge). It ran fine with this combination for around 1500 miles before the problem started. Problem- it runs perfect except it won't tolerate boost under about 3500 rpm. It will idle and drive perfectly at any rpm as long as I stay below 1-2 psi. Over 3500 I can punch it and it bucks once as it builds boost quickly and pulls normally like it should. If I slowly roll into at any rpm it stumbles and sounds just like anti-lag. It feels like it's retarding the timing substantially. It will free-rev in neutral normally as long as I'm smoothly pressing the gas; if I press the gas hard enough to spool the turbo it'll stumble/buck and won't go over about 4500; again just like if it had anti-lag. I've replaced the cap, rotor, vacuum advance can, plug wires, and I bought new injector clips and soldered them on. The injector prongs were cleaned with sandpaper and I applied dielectric grease before plugging the new clips in. The TPS passed a sweep test, no dead spots. I also checked for error codes once it was up to full temp and the light was on steadily; no error codes present. I pulled the distributor out and checked to make sure the vacuum advance/retard assembly wasn't binding. It did have a groove worn in the body where the arm was riding; I smoothed that out with sandpaper, cleaned it, and applied grease. Also smoothed out the arm while it was out so it wouldn't cut a new groove. The ring that the arm attaches to seems to be rotating freely and I can suck on the vacuum line and it advances like it should. I do have another use distributor I can try out but haven't had a chance yet. What do I check next? I really feel like it is overly retarding the timing as it starts to build boost. Even after replacing the vacuum advance can and checking the advance/retard mechanism for free movement, I still don't think that it's retarding properly. It feels like the distributor never retards, and the knock sensor(?) is kicking in and over-retarding the timing- similar to how anti-lag works. It's still getting fuel as this happens; it'll continue to build boost as it's stumbling and it'll pop and blow flames out the exhaust just like anti-lag. I think if it was a fuel problem then it would just lean out, and wouldn't be able to build boost. I'm really at a loss on this one, I've tried everything I know to check but I'm not that familiar with these cars and could be overlooking something.

Price dropped.