xx_somguy_xx

I would like one of these.

If you still have them I will take it. PM me your paypal info.

Do you still have one of the short clutch lines? If so I will take it.

I'll take the intake accordion. PM me your paypal.

I'll take them. Pm me your PayPal info.

PM'd about cooling fans

I'd like the fogs. PM me your paypal.

Wound up being something in the clutch. Couldn't tell if it was the incorrect release bearing that was used, or the tranny bolts that were all finger tight, or the flywheel bolts that were finger tight and starting to back out..... Good thing I got in there when I did.

I have a brand new one still in the Mitsu packaging that I may be willing to part with. Make me an offer.

In my area EVO's are in that range.

No short throw or any modifications I am aware of to the clutch or tranny. I don't recall seeing wear marks on the heads of the transmission support bolts either, so it is possible it still has the factory clutch from 87. I'll have to take a second look to make sure.

I'll check, but the noise really doesn't seem to be coming from the engine. In addition I also feel the vibration in the shifter.

I am looking for an 88/89 240mm flywheel. Doesn't need to be resurfaced already, I can take care of that. It will be going to 97006.

So after working on her for 9 months I thought my car was ready for a decent drive. This was the first time I drove it more than 20 miles or so in a day. I drove about 80 miles of mostly twisty back country roads. About 2 miles from home a loud metal on metal sounding grind/vibration started to happen. It seems to kick in at around 2000 rpm and continues through the the rpm range. Seems to happen in all gears. When not in gear there is an on and off knocking sound. If I push in the clutch I feel some feedback and a gritty type feel. After a few seconds of the clutch being pressed in the noise stops, input shaft stopping maybe?... I initially thought it was the clutch or throwout bearing, but after reading through the forums I'm not sure. During my drive I was beating on her a bit. I thought I heard a similar sound doing a right turn power over, but it went away as soon as I let off the throttle and the car straightened out. This was also the last time I got her loose. I have not had the transmission off since I have owned the car so I do not know the condition of the clutch parts. Should have checked those I guess.... Also it looks like at some point the car probably sat for at least a year, maybe longer. The most recent work I did was the brakes (rotors, rebuilt calipers, steel braided lines, pads, and master cylinder). When doing the master cylinder I noticed it had been leaking quite a bit (no more paint down my left underside FTW). It is possible some brake fluid got into the bell housing/clutch I suppose. Any help would be appreciated. My HOA is a pain so I can't do any work at home. I have a buddy a few miles away with a shop and a lift that I do all my work at, but I can only have the car there for that day. So I have to have all the parts I need when I take the car. I'm a little short on cash right now so buying a tranny and clutch kit together are probably out of the cards. I can do one or the other. Thanks for reading.

I would be interested depending on price.

Thank you. I had thought I remembered reading the advance was higher on the 88 and 89's.

I searched, but could not find an answer. Will a 88 distributor work in a 87? My car is a 87 5sp widebody. The only engine mod is hard pipes with a bov.

I'll take the distributor. PM me your Paypal.

I just got mine fixed today, so it's all yours Project87.

How much to 97006?

How much for the fog lights? Also the side blinkers up front?

Thanks. Re-bleeding just the rear fixed it.

I'd prefer to keep the ABS if possible. The FSM said to bleed the ABS after doing the rears and before doing the fronts. It sounds like there is no reason to bleed the ABS?

Hello, I tried searching for anything related, but I can't seem to find anything that addresses my issue. My brake engagement was inconsistent so I decided to bleed the brakes. I bled the brakes in this order: PR, DR, ABS, PF, DF. All the calipers bled appeared to bleed normal and I kept going until I saw clean fluid from each. The ABS however never did stop shooting air. I went through an entire quart of fluid and after a bit the fluid coming out was clean, but always had air in it. I used the two person method to bleed the lines and made sure to close the bleeder before the other person let the brake pedal back up. When I drive the car the brake are more "consistent" but do not engage until the pedal is nearly to the floor, and I cannot come to a quick stop. If I let the brake pedal up mid braking and push on it again it seems to engage higher and more forcefully. Any ideas? Some history on the car: 1987 ESI-r I bought it in very rough condition and have spent the last 6 month or so trying to return it to stockish working condition. This has been the first work I have done on the brakes. The pads are a bit worn and I plan on replacing them, but have not got around to buying a set yet. Also the red brake light in the dash is always illuminated. It went away for a short time after bleeding the lines, but is now back on. I checked and the reservoir is still at the full line.

I'll take them. PM me your paypal info.