1986ro4starion

last sq i owned http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/starion.jpg LOL http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/crash4.jpg

what ended up happening to this car anyways? just curious seeing it getting parted out? what did i miss

oh and its definitely oil burning

i have the stock oil separator system on it and hooked up, i figured it was the valve seals because it has outstanding compression but the timing chain is starting to rattle a tad so i figure its a high mileage motor

burns oil but only like if i pull 15lbs to 5k and then go to the next gear and just let off the gas and compression brake the smoke will trail behind my car bad and as soon as i give it gas again it immediately stops it will occasionally smoke at idle but at very low level you cant see it just smell it, rarely it will visibly smoke at idle thanks

i have a true 88 starion and was an auto...is that rare?,

http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/starion.jpg eibach lowering springs no rubbing issues

http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/starion.jpg the 88'

and canadian?..how about redneck.

well thats what happens when you say somthing stupid...the dash needs to be pulled for obvious reasons like the coolant hose..for the sake of doing a fatory like job on the vin plate, to clean up wiring, to get all the leafes out of your air ducting, the list goes on and on

it takes 30 mins to take the dash out... theres multiple reasons you should.........plus its easy as crap so if you opt to doin it by taking the windsheild out your a lazy idiot and i hope your windsheild leaks

LOL

i know from experiance that if you wedge a flathead that is slightly bigger than the screen assembly and twist it the whol screen assembly WILL come out with the screen intact and unharmed.

i drove my 86 starion to work a couple of days ago, it did good on the way there never went past 4k barly built any boost.. when i left work it did the same for a while then all the sudden it got to were i couldnt go past 2k and it would barly even pull a hill im talking 10-15mph tops the only way i could acellerate was to very slowly gain speed it would top out at like 2000- 2500 i dont know what the deal is can find nothing out of order

i tried to unplug it while it was running and it kept running!!! so whats this mean that the switch is good? where should i go from here?

pull the tilt stering out and bend the bar to the right a little with vise grips...problem solved, and 88 stearing wheels look pretty decent with the stiched cover cut off especially when its already tore

it dosnt drain the battery at all, could i possply use this defect as a turbo timer jus let it run out of gas after i turn the key off? that would be cool haha

i ran a extension cord under the car with zip ties to the fuel pump on a togle switch next to my seat for over 3 months on my first coquest never had a issue even forgot the pump on for a 8hr work day.......yea haha didnt hurt anything...optima wasnt dead i finally figured out why it wouldnt work.. it was cause the little black box the fuel pump wires come out of was corroded put a new one on wham perfect

i took a bearing such as that one out of a 84 starion turbo i rebuilt and converted to ic housing

were do i start on this?, i was thinking maybe the coil being hooked up wrong? everything else turns off... i havent let it keep running long enough to see if the fuel pump turns off when turning key off dont really want to run it out of gas or start it up again knowing i cant turn it off haha thanks

ah that makes since the because i used bothe wires to check it...i also put a know to be good resistor in and no change

well i went over everything you mention thouroghly and i got nothing i checked all the pin outs on the ecu and i even clean every ground i could find on the car still nothing...im geting pretty frustrated just because it baffles me to why it isnt working because everything appears perfect

thanks im going to check all this out and then ill get back to you

it runs on starting fluid, fuel gets to the rail....i know this because when i take the injectors out it sprays everywere....,injectors work when bench tested..i stuck my tunge and a multimeter to the injector wires while somone cranked it, i tried changing the injector resistor box and still nothong

why would the ijectors not get voltage?