GentlemanRogue

on my small 16g, i had to take the clamp off, and there was a little dowel pin that located the two housings together. i marked and drilled a new hole in it to have the oil drail point straight down.

i guess not...

ah- got ya. seems not as many people around here have the love for 4G63's as other people. but i understand- it's a lot easier to swap an engine into something that was designed for RWD from the get-go. the 4G63 is kindof a complain, but i love the DOHC engines. we'll just see how reliable mine stays(ugh).

i'm not sure how the SQ mounts mount to the frame, but i can tell you for sure that my stock 2.0L mounts from my truck bolted right up to the 4G63. if it comes down to it and you need to get new ones, a new pair of those should work.

what are you planning on for the MM swap?

frame and floors solid then? no holes? for whatever reason, i read you were from Waukon, and understood it, but somehow confused it with Waubeek. not a problem, but at over 2 hours away, i cant really swing out and look at it myself. feel like getting some closer pics of the car, rust, frame and floors with me next time youre home?

i've always heard you can use MM/D50 2.0 motor mounts and they'll work in starquests; cant remember for sure though.

i'm in Cedar Rapids- how's the underside of the car? is there bad rust anywhere?

you guys are lucky- the seal kit for a D50/MM steering box is around $100; i couldnt find it cheaper anywhere!

here's a video from earlier in the year with open downpipe, stock 5 speed and untuned in all its glory! it had s*** tires on it, and was still open diff, so don't let it fool you too much. it is a lot of fun though!

mocking up the slave cylinder for the T56 engine came out like this; i LOVE big open engine bays: i was hoping maybe i could just pound the hell out of the trans tunnel to fit the T56. that was NOT the case. time to get out the sawzall: fabbing up a trans crossmember. hacked the ends off the stock crossmember, spun the center part 180 degrees and it looks like i'll be able to weld up a pedistal to mount the trans mount to: new parts: fixing my cobbled exhaust. before: after: hopefully a lot of people will see this low-tail tailgate and tail lights once its up and running again

swapping to a Ford Explorer 8.8 rear end. 5x4.5" lug pattern, disc brakes, 31 spline axles, and the spring width is the same as the D50 rear. got a rebuilt Trak Lok differential for $200 shipped. TAB-fab modified the Jay Racing fitting, and now it clears the stock waterpump pulley: 4G37 Tstat housing outlet: scavenged terminals from a Conquest fusebox to add circuits to my stock fuseblock: chopped up the 4G63 waterpipe to get a coolant feed to the turbo

throttle cable stop: the wiring is done, and still gives me nightmares 5 lug swap on the front with Toyota 2wd hubs: winter rims: look right at home:

also made a powersteering pump mount. it worked fine, but my steering box leaked fluid like hell, so i just swapped to manual steering TAB-Fab came through again with a stainless O2 housing: Bill Hincher's Bellhousing kit for the 4G63 to T56 trans: shifter sits aproximatly 3" further back than the D50 trans(for you 4G63 swappers who move the engine forward a few inches. usually more of a problem in trucks) oil cooler sandwiched between the intercooler and radiator:

TAB-Fab modified my intake manifold problems with the Jay Racing front-ext T-stat housing fitting. it runs right into the stock waterpump. people raise concerns that when you go to front exit, the coolant goes stagnant in the back of the head since it was designed to flow out of that side of the head. you can punch holes in the headgasket to open an alternate path for the coolant; but my engine was already together, and i didnt want to pull it back apart. after some thought, i figured this bypass would probably do the trick. the idea was if coolant gets hotter at the back of the head, it will be under more pressure than at the front of the head, and will force coolant up to the front. so far, if anything, ive had trouble keeping the thing up to temp in cold weather. i think it worked too well! truck waterpump with clearenced for the timing belt tensioner homemade alternator relocation bracket. cost all of a few bucks in scrap steel and a few hours of work: