The Rabbit1

when I tried the local rad shops they said they don't do that stuff anymore, they would just replace or do the prestone flush like I did in the end anyway. They make one you leave in the car for a day or two, again.. don't leave plain water in and let the temp drop below freezing!!

And so the time has come, PM coming your way sir..

I want a spare timing cover, just sent an email for shaft seals, it's conejomotorwerx.

6 this way, email enroute, look for conejomotorwerx, thanks again sir.

this is just the tube? or comes with the flex shaft?

it looks great, although I can't help but be intrigued by Funky Phil's method, would be easier to install, and probably stiffen the hell out of the frame. Let me toss the idea around, I appreciate your help as always.

and this is good for roadworthy? how about autocross? I was contemplating doing this or going tubular actually, but I'm a mechanical engineer, not structural. Anything I can google to help me envision this idea, sounds good so far.. This man is awesome, if I ever have anything he needs I cannot deny him after all he helps the community out with.. myself included.

Anyone ever have to cut and weld in a new lower radiator support? I'm talking about the frame between the main frame rails. Mine is cracked pretty bad and I'm looking into fixing it. Looking online I'm supposed to drill out the spot welds, knock it off and replace with a whole piece. Due to the layers of metal I don't think it's feasible to attempt to fix the pieces in there know because as far as I can tell the layers are all cracked and would take forever to ensure I got all the layers correctly. Tried looking through the forum and didn't see a thread showing this, anyone know where there might be a good descriptive thread on how to do it? Either on this car or on a similar style framed car would work. I would like to do this once and efficiently. Also I am kind of in the market for the lower frame piece, cheaper the better as long as it's solid, thanks.

pmd

still have the car? I'm interested in quite a few things. center console, fan shrouds, dash cluster/gauges/hood, radiator, and a few more depending what's still left.

well, I would care enough to post it.. except: 1) any auto parts store should have it in stock 2) I actually care to put quality automotive parts in my quest, not taiwanese rubber o-rings that can cause me headaches. I have the kit you speak of, don't use it in my quest. 3) (and this is the best part!!...) it was $1.50 plus tax at autozone.

Also the stock fan shrouds, don't need the fans, to save on shipping and a stock/aluminum radiator if it looks good

Does it have the original water pump? If it is newer or you can verify good, How much shipped to 23456?

this was an old thread, i just wanted to add the part number for future reference, it was a pain finding it the first time.

Felpro # 70799 I'm posting it so it can be found in searches. Thanks.

If he doesn't have it the Felpro # is 70799. Posted for future reference.

got the majority of it down, although: is there a centerline a stock hydraulic cam is proven to run better at? what number is most desired on most engines/cams? Is it on the cam card? or is that a trial an error thing?

Did I miss something? His post said he was tearing down a set of fronts

Part number on those tokico blues for future reference?

so when I turn the ignition on my pump isn't priming, but when I crank the engine the pump starts and car starts quickly, any ideas?

ok, I R confused, I have stock fronts and MK1 rears, so they all should have gland nuts, and I have to order two front gland nuts and 2 rears? do the replacements called out in the walkthru and this thread screw right into the housings? or do I need MR2 upper sections that will accept the gland nuts?

center console to 23456?

center console? floor pan plugs, driver door hinges.. is it auto?

I'm in for the next run! Put me in for the Engine Funk, also interested in the Trans one, price?

in for the update