Rexkrazy

Are you selling the torque tube?

got good pics? will you sell just the SHP set?

Got a good Torque Tube?

bought the rockauto kit. looks pretty good. i'll post here when i know if it worked.

Trying to get this all straight. RockAuto has a "Idler repair kit" but it says non-intercooled only. My car is an ESI-R, but it looks like my steering system would benefit from this kit.... what am I missing? Can I just buy the RockAuto kit? Will the Nolathane kit be any different (besides materials)? Thanks guys. Tony

ever get this straight?

unplugged my driver's side and i love it that way... but when i get out of another car i'll toss the belt over my head and be stuck in it.

I'll take the struts for $175 shipped to VA 23606 if you still have em

the GM MAF with no screen is not really round anymore either, lol. Can the stock computer be tricked to use a gm MAF?

will you do $50 + paypal fees and shipping to 23606?

Can I sneak in late? I want everything minus shifter!! I kinda want shifter too.... maybe a complete combo discount?

I want oooone

pics are all dead... what did i miss?

might try their control arm bushings... look nice. anyone had any experience with them?

very interested... send a few pics? rexkrazy at gmail dot com

interested... does someone already make an adapter bracket for these? What size rotors do they use? sorry for my ignorace

Amazon has the Bosch pump that doesn't need a dampener (69400) for $100 so I just ordered one. I don't mind spending for the piece of mind. Pumps just not running at all when hot, so I'm gunna point my finger :-). I cleaned the fusible link etc etc, and got noting, so I believe electronics are OK. Thanks again Indiana, Tony

Ya, it's fine. I watched the pressure when I finally got he car to start. I thought i read something like this somewhere, looks like mine is bad... I probably won't bother with it. Thanks, I think this is the problem. so the test connector is tied directly to the fuel pump power and not the relay input? I was going to test fuel pump power directly before I replaced it, but maybe I did inadvertently. Guess I'll just drop the tank like a big boy. haha! I was trying to avoid it for fear of rusty bolts, etc. I've dropped my share and you're right, not as bad as everyone acts like. I'm just lazy. Thanks for the input Mike! Tony

well now I think the drip was just the injector firing with next to no fuel pressure. I bench tested and back flowed both injectors and they are both great. I took off the uhh... fuel manifold?? can I call it that? anyway I had to drill/easy out the plug to put in a pressure gauge. Reinstalled everything and powered the fuel pump with the test connector. It ran and I got proper pressure at the gauge. then I turned off the pump and the pressure started dropping, but the injectors weren't leaking. The FPR doesn't leak through the vacuum port. Can it still be the problem? Is there another pressure valve at the pump that could be failing? Also, after I ran the pump the first time, it wouldn't run again by powering the connector (or cranking). Also, the test connector only gets about 10 volts when cranking. I assume this is because the starter is running. Now I crank the car and there is no fuel pressure fluctuation whatsoever. I'm sure if I let the car cool the pump will run again. Ideas? Is the ECI relay possibly bad? What else could be heat sensitive and keep the pump from running. EDIT: seems obvious now. it's the pump itself. I'll check to make sure it's getting power before i go droppin the tank (can I get to the pump without droppin the tank?) Tony

I use a ball valve w/ spring, + a needle valve to adjust vent pressure. Spools quick to 14 and sits on it. I made mine, but you can buy them too. Most use a vent hole instead of a needle valve. The vent is there to relieve the pressure built up behind the ball valve connected to the wastegate actuator. w/o it the wastegate will hang open between shifts. Though if your ball doesn't seal perfectly (most don't or won't soon) you also need the vent to meter the flow to keep from building excess pressure causing a boost drop (this is why it's good to have a needle valve, so you can tune high rpm boost). Anyway, you're just using a vent hole (boost leak) and it's not adjustable. Right now, if you want more boost you need to lower the pressure on the actuator line. Easiest way is to drill out the open port in the tee to vent more. BUT, you need to use a very accurate drill set and go up in the smallest increments possible. Good luck

Thx... I see a drip.

Mind if I add a small Hijack? I've been having a similar issue with warm starts. Car always starts strong when cold (though I usually (edit:THINK I) let the pump prime for a couple secs by habit) Car exhibits the warm start issues like a leaky injector. if it rests for over a minute it will start and then die. Might start again and but just sputter alot and die until it gets to rest for at least 10 mins. Then it will start slowly. Only, one hot day (100 deg plus) after sitting over night, the car exhibited the same issues on a cold start. It also never had this problem during colder weather in general. Warm starts would typically take longer with lower idle. I replaced a broken vacuum temp sensor in the winter but it didn't seem to have any effect. The coolant temp sensor reads 2-kOhms cold and under 300-Ohms hot. Is the one wire coolant sensor an over-heating kill switch type thing? Maybe that's messed up. Is there an intake air temp sensor I can chase? Could this still be a leaky injector? any other ideas? Thanks, Tony

Sigh, yea I guess I need to suck it up and deal. I won't be upset either way as I love the car . even if she's falling apart. Thanks for all the input. Some of you were helpful, and some really need to lighten up

You guys are right, my initial inspection was a bit lazy, and maybe the buy was impulsive. I didn't have any experience with these cars, and didn't do enough research to really know what to look for. So I put a bit of trust in a guy who had a collection of these cars. I knew it was going to need work, but not so much so soon. The car was worth a bit more given how nice the interior and exterior were, so I thought the price was fair. I'm not trying to sound like a punk, but you guys don't think I deserve compensation for being deceived?

nope. not a joke. You're right that all the things are not worth complaining about. The point of this thread was to judge if the combination of all the things is worth complaining about. but uhh, thanks for the input.