NudeLobster

Nope, I talked to a guy named Vashawn. The member zdms18 on here is a friend of the shops and helped with the first intake manifold they made, but he stayed TBI so that's not his car. Also, for 1k, I agree with you, it wouldn't be worth it, but with a group of 10, the price cuts by almost half (down to $550), and it would also give a good base for someone looking to make a good MPI intake. If someone was to use these for their MPI, All they need to do intake wise is tap the runners for the injectors, make a TB adapter (or contact fastline assembly for one), get a non-TBI throttle body, and work the IC piping. Then they just need the ECU part of it and the fuel part of it (injectors and fuel rail). It would also give the ability to run the stock head instead of finding a magna head needed to run with a magna based MPI. It would also give the bump one would need to actually break the 350 mark with TBI. BlueCook for example got to 342 with an equal length exhaust manifold like this one already, so this would easily put him into the 350's, and also make a TBI system run a lot smoother, by helping deliver the fuel more evenly to each cylinder. Otherwise each cylinder is getting a different amounts of fuel at different times. It still wouldn't be as consistent as an MPI, but still way better than stock TBI. Now if you didn't have an equal length exhaust manifold like bluecook, the combination of this intake manifold and exhaust manifold would free up over 50 hp together, without changing anything else. with the increased amount of air being able to flow through the IM, it would also allow higher boost (given your set up can handle it). add a ported head and ported 52mm TB with these two manifolds, and there is A LOT more air moving both in and out, no matter how big or small your turbo is. An engine is just a big air pump, so the more air you can get in and out, the more power you make, and the intake manifold is one area that is always over looked with TBI SQ's. Like they say, your only as good as your weak point, and with the stock IM, it doesnt matter how big your turbo is or how ported your head is. If all that air can't make it from the turbo to the head, and can't make it through the IM, then your big turbo or big head port isn't doing you the justice it should be. -Justin

Hey guys. I have been in contact with a somewhat local race shop (Fastline Assembly about custom sheet metal intake manifolds and equal length headers for the G54. The intakes include: Manifold, Vacuum port connections, Water port connections, Thermostat housing, Sensor connections, and are Professionally ported(customer must give port dimensions to match head). It can easily be upgraded for an MPI set up simply by tapping the intake runners for the injectors. For a TBI set up, they are measured to fit a stock set up perfectly. They will line up with the OVCP perfectly, and use stock TB's. flow a lot more air and flow the air and fuel a lot more evenly (making big TBI set ups smoother, helping even out the amount of fuel to each runner/cylinder). I got a price qouted for 1k for a single unit for myself, but I asked if a group purchase would help, and I was told that if we can get 5 orders they will be $725 each, and if we can get 10 orders they will be $550 each. here are pictures of the intake: http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/fast%20line%20productions%20products/starquest-tbi.jpg http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/fast%20line%20productions%20products/starquest-tbi-intake-1.jpg http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/fast%20line%20productions%20products/starquest-tbi-intake-2.jpg http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/fast%20line%20productions%20products/starquest-tbi-intake-3.jpg For the exhaust manifolds, they gave me a PDF file with the sketches and drawings, but I can't get that on here. If you want to email me (biznatchz54@aol.com), I can attach the file for you to see. here is what I was told about the exhaust manifolds: These are 321 stainless steel tubing 16GA. 304 stainless steel flanges. We can put any turbo flange on them that you want TD05,T3,T4....etc.. There are two options for the collector on our turbo headers. There is the standard 15 degree 4-1 merge collector and the 15 degree 4-1 billet merge collector. The advantage of the billet collector is that there are less welds to fail and it also allows us to completely weld the header tube to the inside of the collector for a complete seal and strength. The headers are equal tuned length and have long gradual bends, no tight turns. These headers are custom hand made so if you have a none standard setup we will require some help on your part in taking measurements to ensure fitup. We do have a test vehicle here so we can come very close on most applications with no problem. We can also supply downpipes and full exhaust systems. We also build a boost actuated muffler for those that want something quieter while driving around, but once you come up on boost it is like having a cutout. The actuator is automatic just like a wastegate and it can be turned on or off and adjusted to whatever boost level you choose.It is 304 stainless steel construction as well. Pricing is not firm on these items but I'll give you some ranges. 321 SS Starquest header with merge collector $900-$1250/ea 304 SS Boost Actuated Muffler 3" inlet $200-$350/ea Now, my question is, Is there enough interest around here for me to start a group buy for them? They made me a deal for me to deal with all the questions, info, and group purchase's of these items on the forums here. If there is enough interest in a GB, the deal will be that after all 5 (or 10, if we can make it) slots are filled, a down payment of half is required. It would take 2-5 weeks for the manifolds to me made, and then once they are done the remaining price (the other half) would be payed before shipping it. For the exhaust manifolds, Since they will be custom made for each customers set up, there will be no set group purchase discount. For those the final price wouldn't be set until all group purchase slots are filled, and the measurements, flange styles, ect are all set for each order. The above price of 900-1250 per exhaust manifold is for a single unit, so I'm GUESSING the group purchase discount rates would be similar to those of the intake manifold, so 10 units would probably be around $500-850 each and 5 would probably be $700-1000 each Who would be interested? Is it worth it to start GP's? I can start a GP for: exhaust systems exhaust manifolds intake manifolds boost actuated mufflers If enough interest is shown for the mufflers, exhaust systems, and exhaust manifolds, I can contact them with more info on numbers and specifications to get a more accurate GP price/required number. The pricing on the intake manifolds are already set. thanks, -Justin

It was xXNudeLobsterXx but after 3 years it got banned, so now mine is "MW Army Sucks" When nudelobster got banned I decided to screw with my friend whose name is "MW Army" So when we played together it was halarious. Eventually I will get it banned and make another good one lol. Add me, I play COD:MW2 and forza 3

drivetrain sounds sick, but I've never been a fan of the 1G DSM's...They don't look anything like sports cars, just a sad attempt at a 90's 2 door coupe. Don't get me wrong though, full respect for a clean, lowered, built 1G...Or any clean 1G for that matter.

Oh I remember! I figured a loud muscle car resonator like that would sound terrible with the tractor like RPM band of the SQ, and I remember tanabe making some beautiful sounding exhausts for supras, silvias, WRX's, RX's, ect. Really smooth sound. I want to explore and see if it will smooth out the sound of the G54 and give a nice sound to it. If it doesnt sound very good Ill go to the true tested magnaflow/flowmaster

wow, some idiots will believe anything. Just look closely at the picture. those are gonna disappoint some poor fool when they open the box.

it makes it look like an angry eye brow. lol

is your bumper and fog light on the driver side there bent? or is that an illusion of the camera?

is 3.909 stock ratio? if not, what is stock for a the 5 speed?

when I get my car, and add an exhaust, I want to get jolyrgr's system and experiment with a tanabe muffler. They make awesome sounding stuff for other cars (expecially the WRX), so I want to see how it turns out on the g54b. Speaking of which, they are available in 60mm or 80mm inlets (2.3 inches or 3.1), so which would be better with a 2.5 exhaust, stepping up to the 3.1 inch? No means to thread jack, I just wanted to ask while the topic active. I think the HKS is also an amazing sounding muffer to +1 brazilboy.

haha, thanks scooter Oh, Also, those numbers would be at standard air pressure (14.7psi) at sea level. So, if you where running 14lb of boost, the air pressure in the piping would be 28.7 PSI, so the amount of heat absorbed by the water would be much less, and even less above sea level.

if you already have a 4" intercooler and still want it colder, Just get a water spray system. You could get the nitrous variant also, but N20 is way more expensive than water, and im pretty sure you'd be put in a nitrous class at competitions with the N20 based system. here is a really good video showing a mister on an STI: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKlke3fNJ_c Water would be better than N20 also, because it has a higher specific heat. It takes 4.18 joules to raise the temp of 1 gram(ml) of water by 1 degree celcious, so it will take a lot of engergy (heat from air/intercooler) to raise the temps. Then, if it reaches 100 degrees C, it 40.6 kilojoules of enegery (heat) vaporize it from water to water vapors. so, if you spray 100ml water (100g) at 70 degrees F, it will take a lot of energy, in the form of heat from the intercooler, to evaporate that water, causing A LOT of that heat transfer from the intercooler into the water to vaporize it. To vaporize that 100ml of 70F water, it would take 258 kilojoules of energy from the intercooler. If the intercooler consisted of 10 pounds of aluminum, it would drop the temp of the intercooler 55C, or 131F. Now of coarse you wont see massive numbers like that unless unless it was 100% efficent, but you SHOULD see some good drops in temps.

look's like a dub'd batmobile.

www.starionpartsfactory.com only thing working/listed is his strut/shock sets right now, but it should be great once its fully working. prices are 5-20% less than his ebay store prices

doh, that was a bad typo hahahah, I should have known, I just said hungarian to my friend a few seconds before I typed that up hahaha. Whoops but yeah, thats my other hobby. Airsofting and AS gun-smithing, It gives me something engineering based when I'm not working on cars at the shop. keeps me occupied, I love it.

one of the very popular OPs I travel too. Massive. vehicles, hundredes of guys, usually on a military training area, with the military phyro's engaged, so there are large, loud, chest pounding explosions when running through the streets, or clearing houses. So big, the first few explosions, grown men stop dead in there tracks in shock.

I airsoft vividly. its an honor game. The people I play with use plate carriers, vests, BDUs, helmets, ect. Usually real gear, depending on how you set up your load out, it can range from a few pounds to 60+. full ghillie suits, bolt actions shooting 400 FPS with .3g bb's (most guns you see in the sports stores? their power is rated with .12g bb's... These guns shoot HARD). My old M4: http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/M4%20set%20up/M4with203forad.jpg http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/M4%20set%20up/M4forads.jpg http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/010.jpg MEU(SOC) http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/MEU%20SOC/008.jpg MAC11: http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/Mac11/003.jpg model 700 bolty: http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/JG%20BAR%2010%20no%20ghillie/DSCF0048.jpg classic 1911: http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/1911/003.jpg Sig 226: http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/001-1.jpg AKS-74UN: http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/001.jpg M4 based Ares defense Shrike LMG: http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/002.jpg http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/015.jpg I also Have a beretta 92FS with stainless barrel and recoil rod, and a mossberg 500 pump. The nice guns that we use are all nylon fiber, CNC'd aluminum, stamped steel (AKs), milled, ect. either electric for most rifles, or gas systems for pistols and small SMGs which give a fairly satisfying kick and blow back. my next gun I am going to purchase is going to be an AMD65: http://www.wgcshop.com/WGC_Shop/images/lct_aeg_amd65_l.jpg and I will be removing the electronic gearbox, and machine the barrel and reciever to fit a gas system by a place called daytona gun. The daytona system is the best gas blow back system for any rifle based gun. here is the system in action, on an AK74M: here are is me in one of my most recently built/designed load outs: http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/tt242/Raptor_870/Tactical/MultiCam_Edition/Cawmbat/_DSC3251.jpg I have since started a more Private military Contractor load out, which will be much lighter and more effective, and will also match the new AMD65, since the gun was deployed by hungry until the 80's, but is not in use by many PMC's including some blackwater contractors.

seems like a good idea, but it's probably different from paper to actual. Find a non biased review maybe? It sounds like a good idea, worst problem i find is that most hard piping for our IC's are 2 1/4", and they dont make the pre IC's like that, so then you'd need a set up coupler before and a step down coupler after, since the 4" ICs around, 26forums, and *DM use the matching 2.25 inlets on the IC.

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=327&phot_key=685 Looks good, anyone have experience, input, comments?

yeah actually your right, they are. you can tell because there's no depth to the weave, its just checkered.

he needs to do em in the glossy clear-coated finish to match the CF stuff from Mookeeh. Looks promising though

hahahahahaha, what did you do over there to get that? I think there was a group buy for a 4" IC here on SQC too, It looked like the same thing.

*DM has a 4" IC core that requires little to none mounting modification (to the stock points) depending on your car, and uses stock inlet and outlet positions so with his 2 1/4" piping, it will help a lot with any turbo. It doesn't matter how small or big your turbo is, A bigger, more efficient IC and piping will move more air and cooler air into the TB (with the bigger amount of air though, a 52mm bored TB from BrianPual98 is probably a good idea, or else that larger amount of air is gonna hit a new restriction of the TB instead of IC/piping). Even on 12A's it will increase the efficiency of the turbo, and most are able to safely and effectively raise their max boost for even more power. Even though at those high boosts the 12A is blowing hot air, it is cooled down by the IC making it useful. It helps even more with bigger turbos. Although, if you want to raise your boost with it, an aluminum radiator would probably be a good idea since your right there anyways, and then you don't run the risk of overheating, which from what I've read is quite common with bigger boost and turbo's. I have no actual on hand experience though, so take it for what it's worth

oh man, I Wonder if I could arrange a trip down there to pick it up, and assuming I dont get outbid. I have 4k to work with.... Car looks, AMAZING.

well the B.S s for pretty much everything, but theres a feedback forum for a reason too also, jszucs, thanks you very much and boosted, its ok, I didn't mean it in a mean way or anything, you seem like a cool guy and it sounds like both of you were at some fault, so no need to point fingers or blame someone. Thanks though, and I hope to meet you at a meet sometime too