NudeLobster

hahahahaha omg Frenchi http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff32/panic_james/rofl.png Anyways Bill, I'm excited to see how this one comes out -Justin

tech, it's $80 to fill a car up with anything now. Diesel is cheaper here anyway $4.24 for diesel...$4.54 for 87 -Justin

Why do you say that? Why not run the translator off the the ECU 12v source? the wiring diagrams for "popular cars" that came with the translator all take 12v from the ECU source thanks, -Justin

This is sweeeet. I want to see a stack straight out the hood -Justin

Ok will do SQR! one last question, in the 88 FSM 14-11, ECU pin 57 has a hand written note next to it that says "fuel pump relay". Is this the pin I would wire a toggle switch into for an on/off switch for the fuel pump? Pin 51 is also noted as fuel pump relay but that's the pin I'll be using for 12v power to the MAF-T so I'd rather switch the other fuel pump relay pin. That is, if those hand written notes are correct. thanks, -Justin

right off the MSD site.... "Even in the harshest conditions, the 6T Ignition Controls deliver race winning performance!To withstand severe jolts and vibrations of harsh racing, the 6T's capacitor and transformer receive additional bracing for a solid mount. All of the circuits and components then receive an extra thick coating of Humi-Seal adding even more vibration protection. Top it all off with a set of sturdy vibration mounts and you have one of the toughest ignitions offered!"

after cross referencing, Boosted was counting the first row the same as the FSM, but he counted the second rows backwards compared to the FSM. Now I have everything figured out There are small shreds of hope with us, I promise! -Justin

SQR, I completely forgot about that out put. That makes things so easy! Ironside, the output he's talking about is a male spade connector on the top of the 6AL box. It is a tach output that you can run tachometers, shift lights, ect off of. As for boosted's write up, that is what I'm following. I just can't seem to get a mental picture of how he is counting the pins, so I'm just going to cross reference his write up with the ECU diagram in the FSM Also, no wonder why I couldn't find the diagrams earlier; they are under fuel, not electrical lol -Justin

sweet you're the best SQR! Always giving me a helping hand by tach wire from the MSD, would you be referring to the orange wire going from the 6al to the coil? or the red wire from the 8910 tach adapter? -Justin

Pipes sold, BOV added! -Justin

car is an 87 with an 88/89 ECU. I'll search over the FSM again now that I'm rested and not stressed lol. -Justin edit: nvm that project zero page is perfect, thanks!

So Indiana, from your explanation, the way I interpret the problem is that the turbo spools faster than the FPR can reference so when it does reference, the raised fuel pressure and resulting increase in fuel is too sudden of a change which causes the wash out/misfire, and then it repeats itself because the misfire causes the BOV to dump all the boost causing the whole process to repeat? Then, by increasing the primary injector size, there is more fuel flowing from the primary before the FPR catches up so when the FPR catches up and the primary starts to really flow, the change in fuel volume is less thus causing a smoother transition, no rich washout, and thus no misfires? I hope I got it right thanks, you are so helpful! -Justin

my cuts/bucks where much more violent. Almost like a brake check. I know the 10 AFRs were bad but I had no adjustment with my 1G MAF. I just got my GM MAF installed in the piping today so I will wire the translator over the next few days. Hope to have it driving in a few weeks. (stupid 2 week wait for IC pipes to be powder coated) -Justin

I just spent more than 20 mins searching the FSM and all i found where like 20 pages that had the ECU plugs in the bottom right hand corner of the page with all the pins numbered but no table of what pin number was what color or function. I need this to find the wires I need to cut and or tap into for my MAF translator gen 2. I hope it isn't really easy to find and I just missed it, but I searched over the whole thing once by eye and once using the search page function with no luck. Though, I just spent 10 hours getting my new IC, IC pipes, and GM MAF fit in the stupid car. hah. thanks, -Justin

yes I just have a new HP kit and IC guys, sorry, no MPI I've had no problems with the RFL leaking once I adjusted it. To adjust it, you screw the body apart and inside the body is the piston and a spring...you add/remove washers to change the tension on the spring. I have a ton of washers in there to stiffen it up, though now with my new cam there is not enough vacuum to open it. Just add washers until the BOV does NOT open and you get compressor surge. Then slowly remove washers one by one until the compressor surge is gone and the BOV opens under vacuum. it's kind of time consuming but very simple. No dents in the pipes! The couplers have some surface damage from the hose clamps digging in when tight but the nothing past that surface ply. The other two layers are perfect and I have no leaks from any of them. PM me if you for sure want them and I'll give you my paypal thanks! -Justin

1G MAS in Cosmo intake filter. 7k-ish on filter? $125 shipped $115 Now $100 shipped http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/Mobile%20Uploads/1332906521.jpg 3 Piece chrome (?) hard pipe kit will all the couplers to install utilizing the stock hardpipes too. All you need is an intake pipe from the MAS to turbo. The OVCP has a TurboXS RFL $180 shipped SOLD! http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/Mobile%20Uploads/1332906566.jpg stock IC with mitsu logo painted on. 35 picked up or you pay shipping (probably 15-20? Now 25 plus shipping/pick up http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/Mobile%20Uploads/1332907058.jpg new addition: Type S BOV. Unsure of brand. not Authentic. Never ran- comes with gasket, bolts, and vacuum T. It is bright purple anodized in color, my phone just sucks haha. I'll take 50 shipped OBO 40 shipped http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/Mobile%20Uploads/1333054830.jpg thanks, -Justin

I'm gonna get my lawn cut by illegals, there will be an influx of hispanic voters in trucks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxch-yi14BE -Justin P.S. it's "mass debating"

I typed out a huge reply in detail and it got deleted. :mad: so I'm just going to say, I have the same buck/miss at the same 16-17psi. I too will run mid-high 10 AFRs at WOT, it will buck/cut/miss/whatever for an split second, the WB gauge will show 18+ lean for a split second after, and then back to 10's AFR. 15psi boosts fine. 1G MAS 89 ECU AEM truboost EBC stock FPR LSP 650/950 injectors bosch 044 pump BUR7ES11 plugs gapped to .032 42ish base fuel pressure 10 BTDC base timing rebuilt dizzy with new vac advance no FP reading at WOT...gauge is on TB. I know ya'll will tell me the same thing: tape a gauge to the windshield but the car isn't even running right now and when it is in a few weeks it will be on MAF-T gen 2 SAFC comparing our set ups, I'm leaning toward injectors? Even if so, how are we supose to use OEM injectors when we need higher output? with all my porting and higher boost this year, I'm sure I'll need to bump injector size after I get me an ARRFPR. until then it will stay at around 15-17 psi, but by summer I'd like to be at 20-22psi I noticed it went a way for a while when the weather turned cool in the fall. Then, it came back after about a month, though much it happened much less compared to the hot,humid summer months. I was convinced for a while that it was the stock MAF just giving whack signals from the higher-than-stock boost like SQR's data logging graphs showed (frequency going hay wire with higher boost and aftermarket intake pipe) but now that whole theory goes down the drain since lance has a GM MAF. -Justin

Well while I run LSP injectors and wish I had OEMs, They gave me no problems other than a reset on the ISC and TPS. Also, there are a metric crap ton of people who run the GM MAF in blow through style after the BOV with no problems in the DSM and supra world. It shouldn't meter air going backward out, the GM MAF is directional. -Justin

nah, keep the stock engine NA with 11:1 high compression, full exhaust, ported head, new intake mani with twin side draft carbs and velocity stacks. good ol' days style -Justin

Wow I really want this as a daily/cruiser. I'd keep the body JUST like that. Just a nice SS header, twin side drafts with stacks and alum radiator...Dang. I'll trade you an 01 expedition XLT good luck with the sell, this is an awesome car and awesome price guys -Justin

after a few seconds on FP's site, I was able to find the 18g for $1,015 with an option of housing porting $95 and wheel clipping for another $95 -Justin

I had no problems at all hooking mine up, I am kind of lost as to what you are having troubles with? Are all your wires hooked up? have you gone through your programming by pushing and holding the two buttons at once for over 5 seconds? -Justin

wow that is such a good price too. I almost want to buy them even though I don't have a flatty LOL -Justin

I did not ponder that up myself, Ulrichwolf informed me when I was having the bucking problem that 16ish psi is the same place his use to buck due to drops in FP (from in cabin gauge) before he got an aftermarket RRFPR and that he found from research that the OEM model (bosche made if I remember?) was designed to raise somewhere around 10-12psi. I'm sure it still rises FP past what it was designed to do, but I think the 16-17psi mark is where it really fizzles out. -Justin