DClark3one3

They say welding on frame rails is bad because the metal your frame rails is composed of is a special alloy and has strength and crumple qualities engineered to protect you the most in a crash, when you go and weld in some regular ol' cold rolled mild steel, its like putting a chunk of metal in the middle of a 2x4 the rest will break except that piece and could cause undesirable results.

Im with him

Another popular performance mod on later 4.6L is to do a 5.4L Cylinder head swap. Being that your car is later model it already has the PI heads. To Dave, My 4.6 intake was alll aluminum.

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=2599&sid=2f183a5f137caeb1a86bf1c90e5f73d7 Everything you need to know.

Telegraph blows, I hate all the cops haha. It should be fine, But I would be concerned that you might be running on the lean side causing detonation. Also do you have a lime green in your driveway?

I have to pull mine off this weekend and depending on condition etc ill get back to you.

Willing to seperate the water pump from the front cover? All I need is a water pump. And man that gasket set is a helluva steal, where were you about a week ago haha.

Love it. Also if you can find a junked PI one you can swap the pcm and bang you have all the hp of the PI. 4.6's are tanks and last forever (with proper maintenence) I loved my Thunderbird. R.I.P Even though stupid MI winters rusted her out. http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w29/DClark3one3/img1237389220872.jpg

Great guy, Great Deals, Great Shipping. All thumbs here!!! D.Clark

Interested in the TB Rebuild kit and Fuel filter. Throw it in a flat rate box and give me a quote. Thanks, D.Clark

Yes, I used the original towers that came with the head, There line honed to match. The valves read G5 I believe.

Update: My original head was cracked on 2 and 3 (The cylinder with low compression) right between the valves, So I drove out to BFE and picked up a 3 angle, port and polished head for the DIRTIEST CHEAPEST price around. An old machinist passed away (R.I.P.) and he had literally hundreds and blocks and heads laying around and just so happend to have a g54 head(Saaaa-weeeet) So I've got my rocker assembly and cam swapped over, just have to swap the plate that covers some random hole, installed the new cam plug and torque it all to spec and im rocking.

If the prev fall through let me know, ill come pick em up.

Up here in MI, we havent even seen snow yet wt....? Im glad though being from North Carolina im not fond of snow.

May be interested in the injectors... pics?

How much for that alantic blue? Do you have a Balt Blue one?

Well, I have yet to get to my garage to work on it. Since the number 2 spark plug hole is tapped larger anyways, I was thinking about finding a caravan head and having it magnafluxed etc...

The exhaust valves are covered white, what could this be??

I finally removed the cylinder head and the headgasket between 2 and 3 looked fine, But at the front of the engine there was literally no headgasket material on the timing cover, could this cause my weak compression numbers on two and three? Ill get some pics up tomm hopefully, Im off to work now.

What gauges are left?

Do you have the steering wheel tilt lock mechanism?

yes, it was an impact socket only thing i had in 1/2" But im putting my money on this thinwall.

Its a 17mm i know this much, its just so tight against the cam cap the large 1/2" socket wouldnt fit. To me it almost seems as if the bolt is bent (wt....?) like the whole thread and all.

The trans is still in, Its the cam bearing cap. I bought a thinwall socket from mac at work today hopefully it works.

How do i get the rear most cylinder head bolt towards the firewall on the driver side out? i cannot fit a socket on it.