techboy

I picked this car up from Brain on Wed night. I'm mostly interested in the dash and will most likely be using it as a parts car. I have no intentions putting the car on the road. (right now, anyway ) If you had your heart set on something from this car, PM me, I might be willing to swing you a deal.

Thanks! The parts car has an aftermarket steering wheel. My car has an OEM wheel with the radio controls (although I don't think they work) - I imagine that one will be a bit more tricky. And, I do have a FSM, which I noticed they really don't show too many bolts holding the dash in place. Kinda surprising.

I don't want to highjack the thread ... but how complicated is it to pull the dash? Any tricks? I just bought a parts car and I'm gonna pull the dash and swap it into my car. I'm a little concerned about breaking tabs and clips and stuff since these cars are so old and the plastic is so brittle. Are there any "how to" threads on this?

Got everythings I need now. Thanks guys!

Lol ... yeah, I've been able to track down many of the parts already. I have to be honest though, other than StarquestJoe I haven't come across anyone yet whose paid me to take away their maroon parts. I've been shelling out quite a bit over the last month. It's coming along though. I'll have to post up some before and after pics of the interior.

If you saw my post a few weeks ago in the B.S. section some of you noticed that whoever had the car before me started painting the maroon interior tan w/ what I believe was just rattle can paint. I'm trying to restore the car to the original maroon. Anybody know of any tricks/solvents/whatever for removing paint? (esp. the fabric peices) I've repainted some of the plastic stuff black, and replaced some other things w/ maroon, it's starting to look much better, but I don't want to get 2 coats of paint on everything if there's a way to remove it. I can sand it lighty with 220-400 sandpaper and it comes right off, but it doesn't come out of the textured grooves of the fabric unfortunately. Thought I'd ask in case someone else dealt with this before.

Got the wastegate. Just need the selenoid. Anyone?

Ok, so I think I'm finally down to the last 2 things I need to get my car back to stock and running correctly. Thanks to you guys on the board, I've been able to find everything else. I need: an OEM 12a wastegate for an intercooled car (should have 3 vac nipples) and the wastegate selenoid. That's it. PM me, or post here.

Planning on coming up tomorrow. What's the (not so) "offical" start time ....

Thanks! Anybody know where I can get one of the upgraded ones starquestG54B is talking about? I went to Mitsu the other day and this parts is supposedly obselete.

I removed this thing for a car years ago in a yard (can't remember why) and had it laying in my basement-o-car parts. I think it might have been an evap system peice or something of the like. It seems to have a filter inside, but I don't think that will matter. I added the npt hose barb fitting so it somewhat resembled the pictures I've seen of the oil separator. I understand the oil separators had some baffles or something inside (??) Accepting your .02 .... http://a.imageshack.us/img825/8039/dscf0780x.jpg

Anybody have one ... ?? Went to Mitsu today and they are obsolete. I have an 88 - but I don't think it matters.

That's good to know. I actually have a catch can from my Eclipse in the basement I'm not using, so I guess I can rig that up to use as my separator. I guess I could probably also put a Y fitting in my turbo return line and run the separator to that. Not my favorite option b/c it's just another connection where things can leak, but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. Oil flow is downward, toward the pan in both cases, so it shouldn't be an issue.

I tracked one down already. Thanks though.

Ok, so based on this discussion, it looks like I can leave the return line to the pan and plug the hole with a fitting. Was there ever any year oil pans that didn't have the return nipple on them for the separator? I was under the car today and there's no nipple on the pan, just the return tapped into the side that was in the picture I posted previously. I'm not 100% sure that my motor is original, so I'm wondering if maybe it has a different pan than a normal 88 would have come with.

Like it says ... I need the OEM air can for the air filter. I don't need the MAF, clips or filter, just the can in decent shape. Anybody have a parts car with one?

I grabbed my service manual and looked at what Starfighter is saying ... and he's right. There isn't even an oil squirter shown in the timing case. So, why are some people in this thread claiming it's a better setup to have the turbo return directly to the pan? Let's hear that argument .... I'm actually surprised Mitsu chose to you use oil from the turbo to lube the chains b/c it's hot/thin, you would think they would use cooler oil w/ more viscosity.

Ok, well, the good news is, I haven't driven the car since I picked up a few weeks back, it's just been sitting while I've been working on it. So, I'm not doing any damage. Forgive me for being repetative, but I want to make sure I'm clear. I need to: -Leave the oil return from the turbo to the pan the way it is. -Plug the line in the timing case w/ the correct NPT fitting. -Find an oil separator and install it. To do that, I need to (according to the posted diagram): -Run a line from the intake to the separator -Run a 2nd line from the separator to the nipple on the back of the VC -Run a 3rd line from the bottom of the separator to a nipple I should find on my oil pan above the drain plug (which I'm assuming is probably capped by a previous owner - I'll have to check out the pan tomorrow) Last question .... where can I get a separator? TIA

Ok, so somebody before me changed the oil reture setup of the car, but you guys are saying this is better. So I should just get the proper NPT fitting, plug the hole in the block and move on with life. My car has no seperator like is shown in the picture above, so it's nothing to worry about ... I don't need it. Am I understanding correctly?

Here's a picture of the passenger side of my oil pan. The return line runs directly up the side of the block to the bottom of the turbo. http://a.imageshack.us/img831/9752/dscf0779y.jpg

Ok, wait. So you're telling me the oil return line from my turbo that is now tapped into the side of the pan is not stock/OEM?? ... that is should run to this plugged line. I just assumed it was OEM, b/c it's very similar to my Eclipse's turbo oil return. I have an 89 service manual, and my car is an 88, but even in the manual it looks like the return line runs to the pan. Did they ever run the return line to the pan? Maybe I have an 89 pan?

Yeah, agreed ... at the wet spot. It should either be leaving a puddle on the passenger side front, right behind the wheel where the pump is, or on the drivers side along the firewall where the rack is fed fluid. If you're losing it over 2 days you have a healthy leak and it should be easy to find.

I'm almost embarrassed to update this thread, but maybe it will help someone else. I turns out it was just fuse #1. I had seen that is was blown a while back, but I was ignoring it b/c it was labeled "room" and I noticed the dome lights were out. So I just figured that was why the dome lights were out and I'd replace the fuse later. In the meantime, I wanted to fix my seatbelts! Well, turns out when I replaced fuse #1 my dome lights starting working .... as well as my auto seatbelts and the auto locks. Duh! I'm still planning to clean all the contacts and lube everything up as suggested, but boy did I feel dumb. Thanks for the help guys.

So when I bought this car a few weeks ago, I intially thought this was the turbo oil return, b/c I recognized the tube as such, but when I looked at the turbo close I realized it had a return line running down to the pan like it should. Then I thought it was the feed line for the coolant for the turbo (the current turbo is not coolant cooled - which is being removed/corrected). But, when I looked in the service manual I saw that the coolant feed line is actually just below this right off the water pump. So ... what the heck is this plugged line I have coming out of the timing chain case? I've paged through the service manual, but all of the engine veiws are from the drivers side. Help? EDIT: The first picture gives you an idea of where it is on the car standing in front of it. The second is more of close up from the passsenger side. http://a.imageshack.us/img833/6264/dscf0778.jpg http://a.imageshack.us/img833/7444/dscf0777.jpg

The Starquest Gods are clearly shinning on you for saving one their kind. That's why the pop up and windows started working.