Raider 2.6

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So would there be a valid reason to ever mess with the box adjustment? I understand the majority of slop comes from other, more typical components, but is the general consensus that a box that would even need adjustment should just be rebuilt/replaced?

You know I almost started a thread about a non-functioning dome light. Then I read some things and did some work on my own Hey Ken, my Starion runs like crap, how do I fix it? Ok, hijacking over......carry on.

If you look at the steering components from underneath, you will get a better idea of what all is bad. I saw that when the steering wheel was moved, there was a bit of play before the coupler engaged then there was some more play before the box engaged. I haven't torn into it, but I'm guessing that means the coupler needs replaced and the box may need adjustment in my case.

lol I like this messageboard I started doing the same thing on a Mustang board I frequent, I understand Ken

TPS voltage at idle?

The guys over at 4x4wire will always tell you to go turbo before "modding" a carb'ed 4cyl. Thats how I ended up with a Starion, but I'm still thinking about keeping it together

This ^

When I replaced my o2, the one blink code would go away after just replacing the sensor and not disconnecting the battery. I read in the FSM that the o2 code is always present until it begins responding, however. I do know I disconnected the ISC and it has thrown the 6 blink code ever since and I still have yet to disconnect the battery. The o2 still shows up and goes away along with that code. While we're talking about codes, whats the deal with the other codes? I thought I had read that ETACS and HVAC codes were available somewhere?

Just an FYI for someone who comes across this thread with the same issue

I wanted to elaborate on what I went through trying to fix the cold startup deal. Short story is that the injectors were hooked up backwards. Now how I found out, pulled the plugs and although one was worse than the others, they were all blacker than they should've been. I went ahead and replaced all the plugs which helped, but it didn't actually fix it. Pulled plugs again, they were already blackened after a few startups and a matter of a few miles. I've read a lot about people hitting walls at 2500 and whatnot which turned out to be the injectors and just decided to unplug the secondary. It started and ran for a few seconds, died and wouldn't restart. I haven't really beat on this thing since I got it and only put something like 350 miles on it so maybe I just didn't notice other symptoms, but it started up fine in 30* weather this morning and seems to run the same as before, but without the smoke and shaking. Geez.........

I haven't looked at mine yet, but is it fairly obvious what needs to be cleaned once the MAF is out of the car? I've read that there isn't a wire like newer cars so my can of cleaner may be useless for that.

Which fuel filter? Were your plugs black?

On the o2 thing, I recently purchased a Denso from RockAuto for $26 shipped. It came with a new gasket and looked exactly like the one that came off, which I'm guessing was original. Has the flange on it and the wire/connector is correct, part number 2341052.

I'm definately a SQ newb, but I have to say the search function on this site isn't as intuitive as others I've used. My first technical post was about the fuel gauge and if you type that in the search bar, the results aren't what I'd expect them to be. There probably are some special features to increase search accuracy as there are with other forums, but I would expect most people to just stop there and start the 833rd thread about any given topic. I guess it is too much to expect someone to do some research/homework, however. I've learned quite a bit and have a good collection of "favorites" going just by thumbing through old VM threads. So far I'm down to page 130-something I do have to say the FAQ is well organized and FSM's are readily available to those who will take the 5 minutes to read a few things and download it. Again, the FSM doesn't specify every problem/symptom ever experienced and evidently the reading that ensues is just too much to handle for some people. Also, the SOS site has some insanely detailed instructions and how-to's for these cars. I was impressed by how much time someone put into maintaining and repairing a non-mainstream car. Kudos to those who put all that together, unless is really is just PQ. Having never heard of a SQ a few years ago, I have found that there is a very dedicated crowd connected to these cars, probably more than what I've seen with the typical muscle/sports car.

Mine may have been a spark plug. I had time to check it out today and with the car dead cold after sitting for about a week, I started it up and pulled one of the plug wires, it still idled the same. The wire arched at the cap so I pulled the plug and it was black as night. Got a new one and fired it back up. Won't say its resolved yet, but it looks promising. I'll have to wait for a 30 degree or colder day to start it and see how it goes. You'd think I would've checked that by now considering my carb'd 2.6 did the same thing last winter

Thats funny, we just found ourselves in the same predicament with the wifes car. Might throw that in there before we trade it in. I didn't think a dealership would perform a compression check if it seemed to run fine though .....and for the Chevy haters, its an '06 Impala

Are all of those pieces mounted to the same plate? Disconnect them, remove some screws and it all comes off the TB? Also, one of the SOS threads shows a ground strap from the motor ground point to the intake, is this wise to ensure a solid ground to those components?

Subscribed, this sounds exactly like what I'm experiencing. I haven't gone through everything you have at this point, but it would be nice to know how it turns out. I read about the 3-wire before replacing mine with a factory piece. Having so many other things to tend to I wasn't too interested in adding wiring to the car just yet. There is a strong gas smell (in a garage anyway) and the black stuff you're talking about on a dead cold startup. Idles rough and doesn't want to rev until warmed up. There have been a couple times where it fired up just fine in cold temps though. I'll continue my own troubleshooting and let you know if I come up with anything first.

Is 28 the generally accepted gap for a stock car?

I can't speak for its accuracy, but the gauge in mine seemed to read low unless you were moving and rpm's were up. I removed the connector and cleaned both sides, now it reads higher at any given rpm than before. Either way, a mechanical would always be preferential if you need solid numbers to go from. Also, as long as the car is not running there shouldn't be oil that far up the dipstick. Shut it off, pull out the dispstick, wipe it off, reinsert, check level.

Yeah I sniffed, but it didn't have a strong odor and wasn't obvious. The TB shows signs of leakage at some point so that would make sense. I guess the good thing is that the injectors aren't leaking. Bad news is they have to come out anyway The stuff on the starter was still liquid, but it did see some boost today so I'm guessing thats why. Will any of the kits I come across work? Advance is the closest so I usually go there for things they have in stock.

I finally got a good, well-lit peek at the underside of the car. There is something all over the bottom of the intake (the square/rectangular shaped area) that is a deep maroonish color. It is leaking down onto the starter and some of the steering linkage. Any idea what that could be? Some of the fluid on the linkage is probably from the steering box, but I'm not sure what could be that color that high up. I didn't have my camera with me at the time, but I can get one next weekend if necessary. Also found my oil leak(s), but that shouldn't require a thread

I'm guessing the entire distributor needs to be removed for this procedure? Will there be a list of tools, parts and whatever lube/grease we need? Sounds like this will be useful

There are probably more of us with a similiar issue waiting to see how it turns out Mine seems to do something like that, but it'll fire right up in 30* weather and doesn't seem so rich that I need to change the oil. I understand the roughness until warm although that issue is about number 37 on my list