nvr-fast-nuf

thank you that is good information. The problem I have is somtimes, usually it the car is warm, the injectors do not squirt any fuel when I try to start the car. but if I squirt gas or starter fluid in the t/b it will start and run fine. I have replaced the injectors, clips, cts, and installed a maft with a 3 1/2 gm mass air,( mainly because the factory air sensor clip was broken all to crap and It did this before too), the o2 is new the computer is an 88, it has a new fuel pump, I have went over and over this thing and I am not going to throw anymore money at this setup. I have access to a junkyard and I am gonna 5.0 or 4.6 swap with twin turbos if i cannt get it fixed. so please point me in the right dirrection before I start to swap this out.

Sorry but I have more questions than answers. Can anyone tell me how or in what order does the fuel injection operates in? I mean when you hit the switch to start the car and the motor turns over what tells the injectors to open? Is it triggered by the O2 sensor, the distributor, the mass air, or what? What order does these t/b injection systems work. If I can get a better understanding of that then it will make it easer to determine what is not working correctly, or what I can do to the fuel system to make it more efficient. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be great or if someone has the time to type it out that is great as well. Thanks in advanced. Shannon :usa:

Ok I was wondering if it is possible to remove and/or bypass the knock box? I have a SAFC II installed and it has a knock sensor correction in it but I am not sure if I can replace or completely remove this from my system. I want to remove anything that can be removed. My car had many electrical problems that I have over come for the most part. The only problem that I am still working on is the knock box is giving me a fit. When it gets hot the car starts to run erratic. It starts to jump timing around and then it will completely die and not start till it cools off. I unplugged the knock sensor to make the knock box go to fail safe mode and it still acts the same. The car ran rich before and when I got it, I changed the oil but not soon enough. I have a bearing that is starting to rattle until the oil pressure builds. I am not driving the car now because of this but I want to try to get all the information I can while I have the motor out putting new bearings in. Here is a list of the mods. That have been done Before me: 1. MSd Blaster coil. 2. TD05H Turbo 17-18 #'s of boost 3. NKG plugs 4. EGR system removed 5. 1989 ECU 6. Cats. Removed 7. A/C removed 8. Caravan head 9. Aftermarket cam Things I have done 1. Injector plugs were trash replaced them 2. New oxygen sensor 3. The injectors were the wrong ones and it the wrong place 4. Vacuum line all out of place 5. New injectors ( Delphi 65lbs primary 95lbs secondary) (They are from here fuelinjectorconnection.com) 6. New Oxygen sensor 7. 3 ½ GM maft kit 8. SAFC II 9. Waste gate controller

pm sent

how much for the wideband? please PM me. Thank you Shannon

Does anyone have or can you point me in the direction of a engine build sheet/specs. What I am looking for more horsepower, but to keep it road worthy. I still want to be able to jump in and tack off anytime I want and not have to worry about it. I am not sure of how much h/p would rule out drivability. I would like to hear somewhere around 350 h/p. That may be to muck to drive everyday but it is just a rough guess. I would like for it to run with my Magnum (111 MPH in the ¼ mi.) So I need a starting point of the long block and head, along with the work I need to do to them. I think I have the F/I system and turbo worked out already. Any help and ideas would be great. This is my first adventure with the Mitsu. Motor, but not my first with a forced air motor. I just don’t want to wast money and time on a build that will not perform or last. Thank Shannon

I finnaly got a responce and this is what they said "ok first off I personally sent the setup out and know they were not used. I am sorry for not responding quick enough but I was in the hospital due to an accident. the kit we sent you were not helper springs. and guess what, we also run a performance shop and have personally installed this kit so that is why we know they work. honestly I dont care about our feedback anymore due to impatient and whinnie a** people. we have installed every kit that we offer for whatever the vehicles. send them back, I really dont care at this point. once we receive them I will glady give you a refund. - boosted_kreationz" Now I do understand if this person was in the hospital, but i am doubtfull. here are some of the reasons it took them over a week to ship 1." we are moveing shop and it just fell through the cracks " 2. "...someone hacked my ebay account adn we were locked out." 3. "we shipped them and I am not sure what happened, so we will ship out another set today." then they gave me a tracking no. ups web site said " billing information received." for 4 days before they were actally delivered to ups. so now I am not sure. But at least I got a responce and can now take the next step.

I have PM Jessica, now I want to hear from her some how some way Lets see how long it takes to get a responce. I have sent themmessages through e-bay and called them for a week i have the phone bill and a copy of my messages to prove it. I need this resolved and it is kind of hard to do when the other party does not respond

Yes I know how to install them. No they were not as listed the ones I got were already USED. They are the same helper spring that you can get through JC Whitney or at local auto parts stors. The ARE NOT MADE TO CARRY THE WEIGHT OG A VAR BY THEMSELVES. And how can you adjust them when the weight of the car compresses the springs flat. These springs have only 94 lbs. spring rate. That means that it takes 94 lbs to compress them 1 Inch. I checked them. I cannt even get these people to respond to me. I have e mailed them and called. I did get one email when I had to threaten to dispute the sale before when they didnt ship them or respond to me when I asked for shipping information. It took them 9 days to even get them to UPS. These people only seem to want you business until they get paid. Then they no longer care. I run a auto restoration shop. We mainly do body and paint work but I have worked in several suspension and machine shops over the years. Every where that I have worked take care of their customers before during and AFTER the sale. That is how you get return customers and good word of mouth advertisement. These low-lifes dont understand that. If these springs had worked I would recomend them to my customers, but i would die first. I also called shops here locally and they flat out refuse to install these springs because of this same problems in the past. I guss next time I will do more homework before I buy and I did blast them on their feed back but only told the truth

Can anyone point me in the direction of a supplier of new rear struts. Mine are shot, they both are compressed and when i pull them up they shoot bach down. Its like they are working backwards. I thing they have had all the good used out of them or they were used to much when they were new. :gun:

Please save yourself the trouble and stay far away from these. Ebay coilovers I tried these and they are not even strong enough tohold the weight of the car. They bottom out as soon as you let the car down off of the jack, if you can even jet the jack out from under the car. They also came out of the box looking like they have been used. And I would not buy from the seller, it took him almost two week to ship and does not respond to emails for days. All and all I got ripped off, screwed and burnt by this guy. I sent him an e mail about the quality and he has not responded. I guess that i am just out of luck.

Thank you you are now on my hero list.

Can someone tell me what knid of air flow sensor a 87 Starion has? I need to know if it is a hot wire or flap, or pressure, or a karman. I need to know so I can install the piggyback fuel system. Thank you Shannon

I need help once again. the turbo on my car has been changed and I have no idea what size. Is there a way to tell. All the marking that I can find on it are: TD05H S 49178-01 030 A 202015 There is A3 1L that is in a circle and 13 also in a circle

what is a good BOV?