newquest86

yes looks like a 16g my car had that exact turbo on it when i bought it someone was building them and milling the 2 off of the 12 mine was actually lightly stamped with a 6 so look at it real close

anybody else use aftermarket electric fans ? let me know what works with ac and what size

thats what im looking for someone that did this i dont know if i should use two 12" fans that are rated 2000 cfm's or one 16" fan that is 2400 cfm's. i dont know if a 16" fan will even fit thats why im asking how did the 12" fans cool your car did you have ac ? i also have a gm cs 130 alternator 140 amps so voltage is not a problem i will be using an adjustable fan thermostat wired off of the battery to the fans with a radiator fin mounted thermostat so i can set turn on temp i just need to know what size fans fit and how they cool

i am looking to replace the factory electric fans with aftermarket i have the *DM aluminum radiator and would like to know if anybody has this radiator or stock and what kind of fans and what size they are that you are using the stock fans just arent cooling good anymore . and yes everything else is good its just a fan problem !

LOL ! thats embarrassing !

pmed about tires and pics

ill take the cruise control and sol

could i get a pic of this ? dkrippa@gmail.com im interested

your package was sent priority and i included a pigtail from an 88-89 . i took the knock box off my car this morning for you so i know its good ive been driving the car for a year and a half with no problems

i have a good black ignitor from an 87 35.00 shipped paypal is dkrippa@gmail.com i could ship tomorrow

yes looks sweet ! send shipping total please box it well

ill take it but ill need it shipped to 07735

lower shores performance brian paul

lowes and homedepo plumbing isle

Posted by: ryddler Jul 30 2002, 08:53 PM Credit goes to Metric-Man for sending this to me: 1. Engine must be at operating temperature. All accessories OFF, front wheels in forward position (Minimal RPM strain from power steering pump) 2. After engine is warmed-up, turn ignition off. 3. Loosen accelerator cable so it is completely slack 4. Loosen TPS screws and rotate TPS all the way clockwise and secure screws 5. Turn ignition switch ON for more than 15 seconds then turn OFF . (This sets ISC to it specified position.) 6. Disconnect ISC motor connector 7. Start engine 8. Set idle speed with adjustment screw. (850 RPM +/- 100 RPM) 9. Stop engine 10. Connect voltmeter to top terminals on TPS connector. (See page 14 -12 of Factory manual)( = Black & (GW=Green w/White stripe) Mike C likes to pull the rubber insulator out of the top of the connector to get a good connection on the wires. I like to use T-Pins to probe in through the top of the connector then attach with alligator adapter clips to the voltmeter 11. Ignition switch ON do not start engine 12. Loosen TPS screws and slowly turn TPS counterclockwise/clockwise to set correct voltage. 13. Set voltage to 0.45 - 0.51 ( optimal=0.48 ) 14. Tighten TPS screws without changing setting achieved in step 13. 15. Snap Throttle plate ( pull up on "throttle lever" vertically and let go ) (use throttle lever not cable incase cable kinks or binds) 16. Re-check and if needed re-adjust TPS to correct voltage 17. Re-connect ISC motor connector. 18. Start engine 19. Adjust idle to (850 RPM +/- 100 RPM) 20. Shut engine off. 21. Turn ignition to the ON position for 15 seconds then turn to OFF position 22. Tighten and adjust accelerator cable - 1+ mm free play 23. Make sure ISC control switch (just) touches stopper on throttle lever (lever accelerator cable is attached to) 24. Start engine 25. Confirm Correct Curb Idle Speed After doing all of that, it is good to pull the negative battery cable for 30 seconds to reset the ECU, so that no codes are in it.

dude what you are doing does work but its wayyy too much wiring ! you need the 88-89 computer harness pull out the 86 harness install the 88-89 harness give yourself half a day and youre done ! the knock box plugs in the computer plugs in so does the mass and the sol on the mass lid. you need the 87-89 injectors green and black the 3 port waste gate

yea ill take that complete intake with tb and injectors

sorry dude i took that too with the 1g mass

pm sent for steering box

pm sent

NLA good luck ! but if you want to buy an aftermarket tb rebuild kit brian paul lower shores performance has them they list them on ebay also dont forget the shaft seals they are important !

rockauto.com has the e brake cables look under 1987 1988 conquest and starion you should change both

never think always be sure !take the rad to a shop and have it cleaned and flow tested and 3 fans are better than 2 any day ! you should have kept it. and just because you got a 160 thermostat does not mean it is good it could have failed take it out carefuly and boil it to test it dont bang it you want to see if it is stuck closed i have a failsafe thermostat in mine it could only stick in open position

yes every moron has their opinion

well i am certified for mobile ac systems and r134 retrofits why would you not want to retrofit to 134 ? its available everywhere, it works very well when done right ,and colder than freeze 12 which is garbage read up about it , i retrofitted my conquest last summer to 134 and have done many retrofits over the years the problem is most people are afraid of change and listen to other peoples headaches and get discouraged and most of all most people dont know how to retrofit or use 134a my duct temps are colder than any r12 or freeze 12car out there . just my .02