Joel

You have to make sure with whatever system you go with, it'll support your choice in ignition system. If you want stock power, the stock dist will work fine. If you want a ton more, you will likely buy an MSD box later if you stay with the dist. DIS, if the management you chose supports it, would not require a CDI ignition upgrade until much later (and possibly never if your goals aren't set higher than the sky). It's still a choice thats up to you, more or less personal preference. You can certainly make more than 300hp on a stock dist. Joel

You just descriped COP (Coil over plug), and until recently (last 5 years) you would hardly ever see that on any car at all, unless it was worth six figures. Generally this type of ignition wouldn't be needed unless you require 13k rpms or so (due to lack of time availible to charge a larger coil pack assembly). The only other reason is if you had the ability to run fully sequential ignition and could actually phase the ignition per cylinder, retard the timing on a single cylinder, etc. Quiet an expensive deal to take advantage of such a thing. You will now see more and more COP designs (s2000, WRX etc) because they can actually use sensor data and known variables from testing to setup individual cylinder trims for the ignition (as well as the fully sequential injection). The term DIS/Coil Pack usually describes wasted spark. You have 2 "coil packs" which fire 2 plugs at a time (and since half the time the spark did nothing as that cylinder is not on the power stroke, hense the term wasted-spark). Generally a setup on DIS is good up to about 11-12k RPM using CDI (like an MSD box). Using the standard inductive type ignition, 600hp isn't unheard of, and 9000RPM to 10,000RPM is not uncommon. On a distributed ignition system, 7000RPM is topping it out. It only has one coil, and the charge times only get lower and lower as RPM increases. I would say to get max power out of a distributed ignition, you would likely need CDI (Capacitive discharge ignition, like an MSD box). Pretty good explanation. However, Distibuted ignition is a little less powerful than a COP or DIS design. You can't build up the charge in the single coil fast enough that a deisng like this permits. If you go to compare other vehicles (like 8 cylinders) pumping out high HP from a distributed engine, You'll see far less HP numbers on a high output 4cylinder than you can with an 8 cylinder with simialr HP. This is due to peak cylinder pressures being higher on a 4cylinder to meet the same power requirements as the 8 cylinder. Don't get me wrong, the V8's did fine on Distributed ignition, but on a 4 cylinder that same power can't be had. As cylinder pressure increases, the likelyhood of a spark misfire (since air makes a nice insolulator) goes up. The DSMs have no issues with their stock setup up to 500-600hp when the car is placed in the right hands. I went with DIS for a few reasons. First, I didn't have to tear up a stock distributor (and I could likely donate it to an unfortunate party later). The second, I had cheap access to RX7 TII coils (I'm sure anyone can find similar coils on ebay), which are known to allow for higher output then even a stock DSM coil/ignitor. That sets me way beyond needing to spend any money on an MSD. I saved money. The third reason was the output that could be had. I use 2 coil packs (twin tower) and two seperate ignitors which toggle back and forth. This helps distribute the charging duties between 2 seperate ignitors and coil packs, instead of having 2 coil packs and 1 ignitor. Charge times are generally int he 5ms ballpark up to 8000RPM, although some have had success with as high as 6.5ms. Another thing to keep in mind, CDI is short duration. Mulitple spark technology that all the big ignition systems claim... it goes away after 4kRPM or so, as there isn't enough time to spark more than once. So peak power claims can't come from there. Inductive is high voltage long duration. The spark is there much longer than on CDI. There are pro's and cons to both, but theres nothing that'll work as cheap and effective as an inductive DIS setup, especially if your not revving to 10k+. Joel

Ford Explorer 65mm TB - Ebay for $15 Joel

Nobody knows. Thats half the fun of owning a starquest. Endless pits of money into something that will someday run fast, mostly spent on items that will be sold agian. Only %1 of the population has gone 12s or lower... And thats not that fast. So now, the question becomes, as it worth it to you to take the chance? Not I, and I'm on MPI. (whoah, that rhymed). Joel

No offense, but I do not see this as a good idea. You guys are gonna burn yourselves to the ground. As much as I find many of your projects estranged and off the beaten path, I'd hate to see anyone get hurt. Weld it or don't run it. At VERY least, have it pressure tested at no less than 50psi AT A MACHINE SHOP, not your 5psi duct tape thing you told me the other night. Joel

K works good. Joel

I believe the reason why newer cars don't do this is probably because the designed the gauge with a low-pass filter. Just Guessing... Joel

Everyone already knows I've been running the E6K for some time now Joel

The technica 2.6 is the same motor as any other. Depending on year, it would have the solid valve train vs the hydraulic. Solid valvetrains are usually more noisy. With balance shafts, this motor is pretty quiet. I'm doing plenty fine without using a knock controlled ECU. I certainly do use a knock monitor box as a "tuning tool". I just don't have anything to retard the timing, and I'm perfectly happy with that. Joel

The 1g DSM ecu is very intuitive with knock counts, and can be used as a tuning tool. However that is NOT the same as a knock retard when knocking. Those guys use knock counts to tell if that portion of the map is ok to run in under that amount of boost on the octane they are using. I would never tune a street map (lower octane) with a knock sensor. Keep it real. And load the car up with good quality fuel and the damn thing will never knock unless you mess the map up in some obvious way. The problem is, none of these after market ecu's use the same method as the 1g dsm ecu, and none of them have quite the digital way to remove the excess noise. You don't really hear my valve train, but at 4000RPMs or so the engine gets noisy. Not much you can do about it unless you run back to balance shaft land or destroke this thing. Joel

Most aftermarket systems doen't have a knock retard. Some of the newer ones do, and obviously the SDS does. I hate this, tuning to knock and relaying on a retard IMO is a bad idea. However, it could perhaps save a motor... More often though, even a 5 degree retard after a good slap of detonation won't help much. I'm using a stock rebuild motor on purpose with my forged built motor on the shelf for educational purposes. My idea was to take the stock motor, not bust it open at all including the stock head, and start from there. Only thing that will stop my "education" will be if the motor lets go. Moving strong since February. Not bad. What I have done about "knock sensing" is instead using a Knock link (you can also use the MSD Knock detector w/ audible warning, but that one drives me insane). Knock sensors are NOT accurate anyway, as they pick up noise. You have to "tune" the knock sensor to your eye with these display boxes, noticing when under a circumstance where knock is next to impossible seeing when the lights go off. I've noticed that 4000-4500 RPM on my HLA head that theres tons of noise, no matter what you do the knock box will detect knock at 4000-4500 unless you turn the sensitivity down (not something I suggest). What you really care about is randomness. If the knock box lights up like a christmas tree when its not supposed to (or out of the norm) get the hell of it. Carry a wideband with you while tuning. If you decide that your smarter than the average bear, and use a narrowband for fuel ratio estimates, I won't bother with the "I told you so's". Put in a wideband for temporary use while tuning and use that. The AFR gauge your using is only wasting gauge pod space, not really providing you with any data. On my 4-wire narrowband o2 sensor it usually read 10:1 at ~ 940mv (or .94v), and reads 12:1 at about 930mv (or .93v). This is according to my wideband and comparing to the NB sensor. There is a big opportunity for error there. I chose NOT to error on the fuel side. If you DO use a narrowband, the only suggestion I have is to adjust the fuel map so that the narrowband sensor wont read any higher, and only lean it out enough to make the car run decent. If you attempt any farther optimizations of your fuel or ign timing curves from there, your only going to spend alot more money. I am running upwards of 24-28 deg of timing at my altitide at 15psi throughout the power band and the car wants more. Been running it like this for weeks without any signs of knock. This motor will like timing a little more than your average turbo car, as TDC dwell time is longer and compression is lower (even the 8:1 setups). I'm not to the point of dyno'ing my car yet (and even if I did its a pile of crap DynoJet). I may hit the track soon, and I'll just look at the MPH for a good power estimate. Joel

A crappy tune would usually build boost until the wastegate swings open no matter what. I can do 18psi at 15deg timing, or 28deg. One takes longer than the other, but peak boost is hit. The wastegate shouldn't be a problem. If it won't hold boost past a certain level I would look at things that could leak boost when alot of force is behind it. BOV's, Bypass valves, Couplers, hoses, pipes and gaskets. Porting the wastegate will not solve your problem. If it does, its because you found the leak and inadvertantly fixed it. If its a 1G bypass your using, throw it out or crush it so it doesn't pop off at 15+. Joel

I'm running the Delphi 75lb injectors since February without any issues. $250 for the set. Joel

A/C + Magna installed on my car, No real issues with the A/C bracket. Clearance for the wires to the coolant temp sensor can get tight if you use the hole on the bottom of the manifold. But certainly no reason you can't make something work. Joel

The mental picture I have come up with on this MPI intake design is a nice thought, but the execution will be lacking. Perhaps I have the wrong idea, Can you send pics joel@tristarion.com Joel

Well, I just put a 90amp alternator in, and before and after I have the same problem. I have the luxury of having a haltech w/ laptop in the car, and it will tell me the system voltage (and I can datalog it). While the voltmeter is oscillating, the haltech is reporting stable voltage. The same deal with just leaving your car running in the driveway, pop the hood, throw in a voltmeter on the battery terminals. Kick your signal on, and watch the gauge oscillate, and notice how the voltage readout on the voltmeter is stable. I think the "general" consensus is that the voltmeter gets its reading from the same harness as the rest of the gauge cluster, such as, but not limited to, the turn signal dash lights. As the turn signal light blinks, the voltmeter reads a voltage drop each time. You can see some of this theory by studying the diagram from the 88 electrical manual: http://www.tristarion.com/88htmlmanual/Ele...trical-172.html Joel

thats why I was trying. So far with it slightly raised and no weather stripping there is NO difference in operating temps as far as coolant or air temp... At least according to my haltech. I've noticed no other differences either. Joel

Mine's shimmed with three washers for each bolt on each side. about 1/4" up without problems. Joel

yeah, just the sensor price will piss ya off a bit. I won't be driving around with a wideband in the pipe all the time. Joel

You'd get used to it, i fyou wanted to. I'd just buy the westach one. Joel

Never cheapS#1t yourself out of a good running car. Save your pennies, even 3000 is NOTHING in todays economy. If I can get a Haltech ($1300 ECU) + Magna + Injectors up and running on a 1 incoming 3 (almost 4) person income, you can do it too. Joel

Half this is talk out the rear side anyhow. No point in doing "reflective sensors" when the dist has a perfectly good signal that works similarly. The box idea, sure, sounds good... but go build one first. Then, when you come back down to earth, you will realize that no matter what you do, you still have the stock ECU and the stock ignitorbox controlling your timing, and your "pot" tuning will shine you into the low 15's high 14's on leaded race gas. Now, before you argue that you could do better in this scenerio, document all your work, and prove me wrong. On the other hand, if you are talking for a purely experimental point of view, and aren't attempting to pipedream your way into landspeed records, then I can pretty much garuntee your success. It CAN be done. Will it work well enough to run high traps and low ETs... Likely not. Would it be good for autocross or road racing... definately not. Joel

What MikeK said works the same way. Just adjust the piston stop from a said 20 degrees on both sides (doesn't matter the "actual" position as long as the piston stop is a constant). Then take the 2 average 10-20 deg readings to meet the TDC mark. Basically the same thing you are doing, just a slight change in precedure. Joel

No, you dont! hehe Just hook up the tach the same as stock (off the -VE side of the coil). Joel

The Autometer EGT is to slow. It doesn't react fast enough. You can hit 1700F and the gauge is still climbing up from 1400F. You have to sit at a constant temp for a few seconds, which pretty much negates the use of the gauge. Joel