Joel

Unless you live in Rio Rancho, NM? Joel

Well, we need to get this car to make power over 4500rpm and you will make v8 like power. Not far off, already making v8 like torque! Joel

I'm interested in what your setup was? What kind/brand of pistons? did you have a turned crank? What Cam? Your turbo, does it have the 8cm2 exhaust housing? TD06H-20G? Are the pistons flat tops? Or a slight dish? Joel

I was saying that ACT told me a similar story that centerforce did... and that was low power ratings. That was their tech dept. If its true or not, I don't know. I'm relaying what I was told. You all are welcome to do your own research. I called them all. RPS was the only guys that cared to stay on the phone and answer ALL my questions. Why do you say ACT? Care to explain? (Quest4power, this is not for you, you already answered this). These 1 or 2 line answers are almost completely useless, IMO. Joel

Well, when the guy who bought chad's intake gets his stuff all together and ready to go, I've volunteered myself to help him put it together (since he lives about 3 miles away from me). Joel

I got an RPS Turbo clutch, they've got setups good all the way to 600hp or so. If you're going to run an Aluminum flywheel like me, you will want to buy more pressure plate than you need, as the flywheel has ~10% less surface area, and thus less ability to grab the surface. Centerforce doesn't offer anything that'll hold more than ~250hp, and ACT is similar (according to those techs I talked to). The guy over at RPS was VERY helpful. Joel

I don't believe there will be a huge performance difference between either one... not because chads doesn't have the potential to flow better/more.. but because the head is even a limitation on the magna, no less chad's intake. I bet there are some small gains from chads... but only time will tell. We all know the magna is good for unbelievable amounts of power, so why worry over it? I decided to buy the magna... looks like mine will be here next week. Joel

Looks like the Haltech E11 has hit the market as well. I have an E6k (and I've setup one before, im not done buying parts for my car yet), and I LOVE them. The E11 has halwin (looks like the E6k will too shortly after the E11 hits main stream). Joel

That depends on what your goals are. 550cc injectors will get you ~350hp max, but may require you to raise the fuel pressure. 770cc injectors can get you up to the 450hp range. Anything bigger than 850's and you may have trouble getting the car to idle at stock fuel pressures. Joel

I dont know if you baked it or not, but in order to get that paint to stay on under heat (the high heat paint) it seems it'll stay if you bake it in the oven @~500F or so. If it flakes off, try baking it if you didnt this time. Joel

http://www.tristarion.com Joel

I don't know, Torque doesn't seem to bother me when riding around in my neighbors 88 FC TurboII w/ 60-1 and 18psi ;D I don't even notice. Ran low 12's on pump (then it blew more apexi seals one day, thats the only suck part)... Joel

I do believe they *can* rev up to 7000RPM without damaging it (immediately). Remember that the more RPMs your turn, the more it wears, the faster it dies. If you want to be able to rev more with the least amount of wear, you'd need to destroke this motor to square it up more. That would reduce piston speed... and would reduce overall lowend torque as well. 4g63 isn't a bad choice in this case, I would have to agree with Jason. Joel

Be warned (as stated above) that those numbers are at 100% efficiency. I would say that you would MAX OUT at 80% efficiency on the stock intake/head w/ an exhaust system on it. Joel

Anyone play with that calculator? Joel

I still would get real cautious with the NB A/F gauge... Nice looking gauge, but I think the NB O2 sensor doesn't do it justice! As far as the CFM an engine takes in, the Turbo does NOT dictate that, against popular belief. The VERY thing that makes a motor consume more air than it could normally aspirated is boost (duh, right?). We often loose sight of that when purchasing big turbos. Take a stock motor, 2.6L, ~2600ccs, ~157Cuid (probably more like 158). My statement to you I did quick math at 150Cuid (rough conversion). Ok, to figure out CFM, you do some math at 100% efficiency (cause thats all the data I have). As a motor spins, on a 4 cycle engine, only half the cylinders will take in air per RPM as dictated by the cam (4 cycles are completed in 720 crank degrees). So, 158/2 = 79 Now we need to know frequency, how many times this occurs per unit of time (RPM), which if we RAP out to 6000RPM, we will do 79*6000(rpm) = 474,000, now convert to cubic inches 474,000/1728, you get 274.305~ ( we will round to 274). Thats normally aspirated... meaning at 100% efficiency (which is not likely), you will take in 274cfm. To figure out how much consumption you will have after you have applied boost, you need to multiply that number by the boost ratio. Boost ratio = (boost)+14.7/14.7, in your case 18. 18+14.7/14.7 = 2.224pr (You add 14.7 to your 18psi because this is NOT relative pressure, we are dealing with absolute, if you are at 1 mile up like me, to get exacts, you would need to know what atmospheric pressure is). Now, Take 274*2.224 = 609CFM. Theres your number. Remember the reason why this "works" is that this is based on what happens at atmospheric. HOWEVER, You WILL not get this number in even the best scenerios... this is 100% efficiency. You numbers will be more dictated by your cam, how well your head flows, and the like. You will likely be UNDER this number some. This prompted me to make a Web script calculator (took me about an hour to perfect somewhat). GOTO: Http://www.tristarion.com/boostcalc.php Joel

You cannot get a good estimate at all on what your A/F ratio is with a Narrow band O2. Your better off with an EGT, going to a dyno and finding out which side of the EGTs your on. If you can get her to chug, you're hitting the 9-10:1 area. You'll want to run that much fuel (between 10.5-11:1) if you on 24+psi of boost, but not before then. Fuel wash is no good of coarse. My suggestion to you would be to get that thing on a wideband before continuing. If you have an EGT gauge, use it. EGT's should not exceed 1450 or so on pump with an aluminum head. On leaded gas (104+ MON) you could get to the 1600-1640F mark. Beware of the cold EGTs when you know better. That means your gonna blow it if you don't get off it. Those A/F gauges are useless for any kind of tuning at all, unless you want to tune for Stioch, which means your to lean for your application. If you see Red LEDS on that thing with 18psi, you've probably already toasted the motor. I know Widebands are expensive, but thats not gonna help the fact that narrow bands don't help one tune real well. The Nb o2's will get you running, but for all out power an EGT will do you more justice. I would suggest perhaps a knock light, such as a KnockLink by Link or an MSD knock meter. I would not use it to tune with period (thats tuning to the absolute threshold, which is bad on a street car), but rather use that as a warning system... If you see it turn into a pretty Xmas tree, get off it and figure out whats wrong. I figured your maps were pretty linear, as your running awefully good 15psi and under, but you never know No offense intended. You're much farther along on your car than I am on mine, I think its wonderful how well your doing! How far does your Retard go? I would not go below 8BTDC, your EGT's will likely skyrocket, and things will start to get real warm below that. At 18psi if you revved to 6000RPM, your motor will consume only 577CFM. That would be on a 16G, 20G, 25G, To4e and so on. Your static compression ratio is around 16.5... so you would be correct in the assumption that perhaps 18psi is a tad much on pump. But, considering that fact, you've gotten rather far up there before requiring a "tad" higher octane. Joel Joel

Mike, I read your posts (as quoted above) and I'm confused. Octane doesn't increase richness or the likes, just resistance to knock. If you have plenty of pulse width left on those injectors (with 800cc's or so you should!), you should be able to tune it in right. What engine management are you running? SDS? Make sure your maps are smooth! Hills in the map are gonna make things run odd. I haven't seen your maps, but I know this is a common mistake. 18psi on 93pump should definately be doable, unless its knocking. What are you using to test your A/F ratio? if your using a narrow band O2 sensor, I can tell you that what your experiancing is MUCH different then the "reported" O2 readings. Narrowbands will not read accurately at all except for a narrow area (14.3-14.9:1 or so) and the farthar away it gets from that, the worse off the readings become. I can tell you from personal experiance with a NB A/F gauge/o2 sensor that I have gotten 13:1 or so on the gauge and 9:1 A/F on an external wideband at a dyno. Joel

Personally, I would not go with a TecII. Talk to SDS or Haltech, better for your buck. Never heard of a TecII going "easy" by a first time install (or second time)... Haltech/SDS setups are easier and are just as functional. As far as windows software... I would almost recommend against bothering. I'd much rather carry a pile of s*** laptop that runs DOS and the programming utility then a BSOD (Blue screen of death) Prone Windows box... Just what I want to happen while im burning to NVRAM a new map... a BSOD But, to each their own preferance. On the other hand, I do beleive the "trigger" wheels you are talking about are similar to a 60-2 (60x2-2, 60 teeth per rotation, 120 per engine revolution, -2 teeth for the home trigger). They can be a pain in the a**. You can get slightly (I do mean slightly) better resolution out of a trigger like this, however its a negligable difference in power (if any, depending on your state of tune vs someone elses on another standalone). I've also heard the TECII/III's are much more difficult to grasp (not as userfriendly as the windows software availiblity would portray). Joel

All the twin turbo Supras and Rx7's switch to a single turbo if they want to go fast. If you want proof, visit places like Rx7club.com and Supraforums.com. Personally, I would very much stay AWAY from the Rx7 TT setup.. they break easy. Joel

Now this is a good question! Joel

Copper has very little tensile strength. The taller it is, the less useful it becomes. Not to mention they are not great for street cars, the require maintenance ever few thousand miles, and will leak some (seems they like to leak coolant more so than oil?). Metal would be the only way to go IMO. However, I would not place bets on thicker gaskets, as after this punch over you will have real quench area. I would dish the pistons and deck the block a few thousanths to bring the head to piston clearances closer. That should be a good combo at 8:1 compression and some decent boost on pump. Joel

If you figure the new volume you would need to make it bore over to 3L you would need about a .31" bore-over (Proof: (1.95*1.95)(3.14159)(3.86) = 46.111 * 4 = 184Cuid = 3.02L) Now, when you increase the bore size, you increase the compression ratio (as your head volume stays the same while your displacement increases. If you use stock-type dished pistons (~20ccs dished IIRC), then you'll be in the 8:1 camp. If you use JE or Wiseco pistons that are flat tops (no dish or dome), you'll be in the 9.9:1 compression ratio camp. 9.9:1 and boost on a hemi-head is not gonna be fun, unless you like to run lower amounts of boost, or you could always spend some money on some stock in C16 VP Race fuel (~108 MON, ~106 RON). Yes, there ARE ways to solve this problem; Add material to the deck, head etc.. or open up the chamber in the head.... how useful these options would be to OUR motors/heads... I don't know, never heard of anyone doing it.... depends on if you like to guineapig yourself or not. Joel

Methonal (an Alcoholic beverage for your car) definately has MANY advantages. Methanal (amongst other alcohols) bring its own oxygen, cools the charge, burns faster (less time for detonation, more burn takes place faster requiring less timing for maximum power). The effects alcohol has can be somewhat similar to nitrous, but nitrous doesn't contain its own fuel. Methanol requires no fuel enrichment (since it IS fuel). Even NA cars running just methanol work wonders! Joel

On my 85.5 I have had no issue with holding 7.5psi or 15psi (or 20psi). With no wastegate actuator (just hanging open) I was able to acheive < 3psi. This was with both a 2" custom OVCP and a 2.5" OVCP made out of hard pipes. Joel