87chrycon

Read my signature for details on what is on the car. Has some rust in front of both rear wheels and behind passenger rear wheel.. Rust free patch panels for the rust forward of rear wheels in my garage waiting to be welded in. I need surgery on my hand (14k), no insurance.....need this gone ASAP and will need to be towed.... Can here it run if your local. I am an enthusiast to keep these cars on the road, but if nobody wants the whole car, it's getting parted cause my hand is way more important than this car, sorry just being honest. pics coming soon when i get back to Omaha (Monday)... Leaving my # for serious inquiries only...402-980-2447. If your not wanting to buy it or parts do not call me!!!

thanks for the #'s jolyrogr, and thanks for ALL the insight from you Indiana--including vouching for the performance of the jet valves if someone takes maintenance seriously.....I known these were developed for a reason and lack of/neglect of regular maintenance makes them prone to failure.....My cousin bought a quest new in '88 and kept up with all the required maintenance and sold it with 179,000 miles back in '03 and never had any trouble with ANYTHING other than the power antenna! I think that after getting the head off and checked at a local/reputable machine shop I am in for more decisions than I was ready for! If the head is not cracked I'll keep it and will use JVE kit and go from there or buy a new one without the tapping provisions for JV's.....either way I will blend cc bowls, OS stainless valves, schneider HD springs, new valve seals, new stock cam/rockers, and "port matching" to manifolds.....hopefully this will give me some minimal power gains.....

Checked my oil today and found the "MILK" that everybody dreads--did not overheat, so it is very recent--have not driven it more than 15 miles at once in 4 months.....Engine has 82k on it and may be up for some lower end work as well--if so that will come later as my datsun is absorbing funds now. I will be doing the head gasket replacement myself and just wanted to ask a couple of questions about top end improvements before going forward with removal/replacement....I will have the block decked/head checked for cracks/warping when it is apart.... 1. will a port and polish/3 angle valve job yield any decent power gains with stock throttle body? Or should i buy a better casting and start there? 2. should i replace standard valves with the stainless 1mm o.s. ones? And what brand valve seals to use with these if I go with them? 3. surely i should use new/heavier valve springs required with o.s. valves? what brand as well...? 4. who makes a better than stock head gasket...? I've heard the ajusa was decent a couple years back but are they really any better? I figure this is enough questions for now, TIA for any replies....

I have a grill laying on a shelf in my garage somewhere....if you want it let me know what you'll pay. I don't need it so if i can make a $15 profit that works for me.....

PM'd ya on the Borla...

Most widebands will come with detailed instructions on WHERE TO mount and WHAT ANGLE to mount at.....follow the instructions and it will last a good amount of time. If you skimp on the installation it will foul quicker and will not give you accurate readings on your A/F ratios......

Sorry it's been so long but I've had family health issues to deal with and the winter weather has been CRAPPY......, to make a long story short it snowed about 5x (about 3 feet total) since I posted and I have not driven the car--sucks when I have to put it in storage.....but it is warming up this week and I will get the shroud off of it and see what happens when it gets cold out again.....I may put the clutch fan I have on, and reinstall the OEM t-stat as well but I will do these all seperately so I can seperate the feedback I get from each mod......sorry about the wait but I don't drive it in the salty s*** here in Omaha! I'll try to get an update on this over the next week or so...... The flex fan is loud but I have 3" turbo-back exhaust as well......and the exhaust is NOT quiet. To the guys that are constantly knocking the flex fans......My cooling system is a 10 out of 10 as the radiator/hoses/clamps/sensors etc. are all new or in perfect working order--they've all been bought by me or removed and checked by professionals or myself......I removed the electrics because I don't trust the (old) wiring on this car and someone on here wanted to swap me a shroud and clutch fan plus give me $50.00. The car never overheated to begin with I just made a change because I wanted to--and I wanted it to be quick. If I wanted a 300+HP conquest or starion I'd go the cheap route anyway and put a Chevy 350 4-bolt in it. I don't need an extra "race car" as my V-8 Datsun will outrun 95% of ANYTHING that I see on the road--I wish it had a flex-fan on it so I could talk some crap but it has dual electrics......I would be surprised if anyone could tell me how much HP on average an engine loses when replacing electric fans with a flex-fan anyway, anybody know the answer to that......?? Just my 2c.

ATTN: moderators... if you want to move this to advanced virtual mechanic please do....I thought I posted it there!!

OK, so i searched for an hour trying to find the topic that i followed a year ago when I installed my flex fan to replace stock electric fans. I wanted to add this information to that topic so people would have this info at their disposal but came up empty on the search. Here is a not so brief description of what I did and what I have found. I have removed and replaced the stock electric fans with a flex fan and spacer right on the water pump/pulley. I have a fan shroud from a conquest that ran a clutch fan installed on the radiator for "guiding" the air through. The flex fan is installed as a puller meaning it pulls air through the radiator. In hot summer temps I love the performance, stock temp guage never exceeds 1/3 on the guage. Runs very normal temps and my (AEM)wideband shows that the stock 88 ECU (car is an 87) that i use is recognizing warm loop and fuel mixtures are right on (14.0--15.3 and searching for stoich). Last year when I did the swap to the flex fan/shroud, I never drove the car in cold weather as I stored it for the winter (and I did not have a wideband operating for fuel information). Now that I have the wideband operating and I have driven the car in the freezing cold temps (15* F), I have noticed that the car is warming (slower traffic) then returning to cold loop (stock guage clear down by the C) when hitting the interstate. This may not seem like a big deal as it is better to run cold than to run hot but it is causing the ECU to recognize cold loop and add fuel and creating a rich condition way too often. My wideband is often showing 10.0--11.0 fuel mixtures. It is eating gas like crazy and killing my mileage, not to mention if you run rich constantly it is going to thin the oil out as the mixtures will get past the rings and eventually engine damage can occur from the rich conditions and diluted oil. So there is an update to a thread I could not find. Just my 2c of information for those running these mods. If you do not have a wideband and you are seeing below normal fuel economy, colder temps on guage, this could be the problem. I will remove the shroud this week and see if that keeps the temps warm in the cold weather. I will also update this post with my findings after removing the fan shroud.

PM'd you on this...

I think I remember someone GIVING a set of 7's and 8's away in the for sale forum recently??? might want to check that out.

PM'd u on this......LMK if you want it.

Anybody in the KC, Des Moines, or Omaha area need one of these?? I can accept delivery in Omaha, NE at my warehouse (business address).....I am definitely interested but would like to save others any $$ if/that I can......my email is drmalcolmx@hotmail.com if anyone around here would want one of these....I will wait a maximum of 2-3 weeks before I have one shipped here. Thanks for putting together this option for us Scotty....Thanks, Dale M.

anybody else out there have one of these to cut out and sell? need one ASAP!

Anybody that is waiting for pics, I will be emailing them to those that requested them on Saturday....too many hours at work this week, sorry about the delays.

Great progress with the swap Brian! Your patience should be applauded. It's all worth it when you can look in the mirrors and see the tire smoke. Did the machine shop take care of you on the hot tank error?

Sent you a PM, thanks...

I've had this on craigslist for a while now but local interest is not getting it done. Getting some body work done on it in the next week or so. I'm located in Omaha, NE. Complete list of mods on the listing...........here is a link to the car:My link I do have some other pics if anyone is interested, can email if requested.

Here is my car on craigslist......http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/1346460967.html (or link below) My link 81K on original engine, 3 owner, check my profile or craigslist listing for mods......having some rust fixed this week or next depending on when he can get it in the shop......I've got closeups of the rusted areas that are being fixed......PM me if you are interested in any other pics.

I need to fix the area pictured here within the blue tape. I need to purchase a patch panel that is rust free. The panel needs to be cut above the lower body line (blue tape outlining this), needs to have the wheel-well lip included, and needs to have the area that goes beneath the car included. If all the sheet metal that is spot welded together is included that is fine as I can remove what I do not need when I am ready to weld these in. Again, I need the DRIVER side as I have already purchased the Passenger side panel. See the pics for an example of what I need. The blue panel pictured is the piece I need for the repair but is a Passenger side example. I need the DRIVER side. OK the blue picture would not upload due to the BS for max file sixes-etc. what a pain in the a**........if you have what I need send me a PM and I will look at it and let you know if I want it.....paypal and personal check payment options ready! Thanks for any help....

Yes, there are tons of different options for installing LSD into the original z cars. The Q-45 option is very durable but to get that into a 240z is not a task for the faint of heart and will cost at least $750 unless you want to wait for the "best deal" on every part you would need. Especially after you figure out what all you need and the different miss/matching of parts. I will probably just order an OBX LSD and install it into the R200 due to the fact that it is pretty straight forward and has been done many, many times with favorable results.......should be able to do this for under $600-$700 and be able to select my final drive ratio as well for that price. I did not want to turn this into a Datsun thread either but I appreciate the feedback......just trying to see if anyone has compared the starquest (LSD) rear to a datsun/nissan unit and which they might consider stronger or "beefier". Thanks for the input and keep it coming if there are any more out there that know the starquest LSD or the Datsun/Nissan......

glad to see someone else is into something Datsun on here. I will tear these down (both diffs) as I am going to be adding an OBX LSD (way cheaper than Quaife) to my R200 in the next month or so. I will try to get some pics and will also measure the components of the Starquest and see if it would ever fit in a Datsun..... Mods, thanks for moving this......

This may be a little off topic, so if it needs to be moved feel free mods.......as the description says I am trying to figure out who made the rear LSD, what the gearing is and how much torque this can handle. Clutch LSD or Viscous LSD?? I am in the process of installing an LSD into my Datsun Z and was wondering if these are comparable to the Nissan R200 with 3.70 gearing and clutch LSD that can be found in later 87-89 300ZX turbo.....due to the fact that I have one (conquest LSD) laying in my garage......maybe I'll just tear this apart and find out what is inside.....

Good seller....Cut a patch panel out for me off of a shell so I could fix my only rust problem on my car....great price--$80 including shipping, item exactly as he described it. Thanks for the help Bryan, Dale M.

Is your factory o2 sensor known to be good?? I had very similar #'s (do not recall exact) when I installed my AEM UEGO and I swapped the old factory o2 for a new one out of the box and everything was fixed. My uego is located about 12 inches beyond the turn where my exaust downpipe goes from verticle to horizontal under the car oriented in a 15 degree angle upward. Almost forgot.....other thing that I had was a stripped out hole where the rear/top exhaust manifold stud is located. This was definitely not good as I had carbon (releasing exhaust gasses before feeding hot side of turbo) all over the heat shield at the firewall---I helicoiled this at the same time I replaced the o2 sensor.......I have factory o2 feeding ECU and 1st gen DSM MAS so for what its worth here are my approximate #'s now: went to 10.5--12.0 at cold startup (rich) 14.2--15.2 when warm and cruising (searching for stoich) I believe 14.7 is ideal for combustion around 10.0--12.0 under throttle (rich) under deceleration 16--three red bars (lean) Reset and check your codes as well........