Skippy

Mine sat for 10 years and it cost me about $4k to get it up and running. Probably about $1200 of that didnt need to be done, but I went ahead and had it done anyway. The biggest issue was that the brakes were locked, pretty much all the seals and that were good. Also, if the person that "barned" this was smart, they topped it off with oil. However, based on those pictures I dont believe that car has been sitting in that barn for more then 2 maybe 3 years.

My bad, I missed that you were looking for 83 anyway. You can look at ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=chrysler+conquest+manual&_pgn=2&_skc=50&rt=nc There are many 84 manuals there, but not an 83 and I dont know what the difference, if any, between those years. Also, you can check with the company Faxon Auto Literature 1-800-458-2734 to see if they have one. Beyond that you will just have to wait for some kind soul here to post a picture of the vacuum diagram on their 83 hood, assuming they still have the diagram being many of those hoods here are on 87 and newer cars.

I had leaves and oil on my rear cat catch on fire when my car ran somewhat like this for a little over a minute. So check for smoke afterwards.

Could be many things as pointed out. I spent almost $900 having mine diagnosed by many different people/shops over a couple years. In the end I had to spend $75 (if I recall correctly) here getting the "head unit" in the car with the buttons to fix it. The diagnostics was that a signal was being sent, but wasn't "sticking" so the compressor would start and then stop within 3-5 seconds. Also, the car has to warm up before the AC actually works. It doesn't make sense to me in the least, but ultimately after replacing just about everything that could be and checking everything else they still thought it didnt work until they had the car running and were standing there scratching their heads. They heard it kick on and stay this time. It was blowing nice arctic air and has been ever since. If it wasnt for the fact that I had this car at a classic car shop who's owners I am very good friends with I would have thought I was being swindled. Most places would give up after a couple of hours of diagnosing the issue and they all started with the basic stuff no matter how much I stressed it's been done already (dont blame them really). Being I was using my friends place this time, they continued to work on it until they completely traced it back and presto!

Search here, I know there are colored pic's posted showing this stuff here somewhere.

I'm in the process of converting to MPI and want to replace my head at the same time. I am curious which route would be the best way to go. I'm not looking for an all out drag strip car, but certainly one that packs some serious HP. I have seen a few posting here leading me to other sites that offer them, but I have also seen some negative feed back on those people so I wanted to seek some advise here. Especially considering the age of some of these post being I have no idea if those people are still around doing mods. Thanks!

Now that is what I'm talking about! I would imagine it would be separate. I know the add-on ones dont have you tie in to the cooling system of the car and recommend against using anti-freeze unless you must. Big question is, where is that big ice box going to go in our engine bays? That place is already pretty cramped!

I would think it would help cool it down even more over the IC and would hopefully help with the heat soak from the head.

Nice. Did you mount the radiator where the IC typically is? Would you say this has been an improvement over the stock? They say that the water cool is beneficial for cars that will be sitting (like at a drag strip) and the Air/Air would be better for cars on the move (daily driver) as the amount of air moving across the IC does a great job. But nobody seems to over hard #'s to show any of this. I personally would like to see Air temp measurements before and after the IC's to see which is actually better at lowering the intake temp as that is 100% the point in these and yet no one shows the facts, only the amount of PSI lost. I did see one SQ that had only "barrel cooler" running across the front of the engine as your piping is. Assume it did the job or they wouldnt leave it there, but you never know with some people. Edit: What would be really interesting to see is a water cooled intake on the actual manifold. (not like what we have now, but for the air itself)

Put me down for one. I know I will need to replace mine here shortly when I install the magna.

Would you be willing to ship it somewhere?

Has anyone used a water cooled intercooler from frozenboost.com? If so, where did you mount the water tank? Is there any advantage to that over say a 4" aluminum one that is being offer as a bolt on for our cars by another source? Also, being that I am going MPI and do not want to move my battery or AC, do I need to go with an intercooler with a bottom/side exit for pipe routing purposes or will the top mount still work fine?

Nice, I didnt realize it was so easy with these. Maybe I should have just invested in a MPI setup.

Unless my service manual is wrong the front is a positive 18 offset

Nice. Beyond the EMS management and the single turbo mod (what is that turbo?) what else have you done to this engine to make that much HP? Also, what kind of transmission are you running under there? You seem pretty nonchalant about it all. If I missed a thread somewhere detailing all this info, please point me in the right direction as I would love to read up on it.

Both of these are sold.

You can go here and figure you tire sizes for any size rim to keep it in acceptable limits for speedometer and that. It will clearly tell you if you go to far over or under as you enter you stock size in there. http://www.1010tires...ecalculator.asp Based on my calculations I am going to eventually go: - 18"x 8" with 215/40R18 Front Tires - 18"x 10" with 285/30R18 Rears Tires However, I dont know how wide a rim you can put on the corners to begin with. The fronts I am fine with, but if I can go wider on the rear without fender modifications I will.

I have the exact same interior in my 87 and will agree it is black. The back small upper sections by the speakers really fade, but the rest of the car just looks like a deep blue in certainly lighting and deep black in other lighting.

Yes but sometimes a show of interest would prompt a new offer.

Not to be nitpicking, but giving a price and putting OBO is nothing more than an auction no matter how you cut it. He can ask $1 OBO or ask $1,000 OBO and the results will be the same.

PM'd with questions.

If my understanding is correct, it allows you to get more feul and more air which equals more HP.

You can add me to the list as well as I would like to replace mine.

Thats good information there NotStock. I wonder why that doesnt come up with I do a search. It would probably be better placed as a FAQ in the MPI section instead of Troubleshooting StarQuest Problems, StarQuest FAQs

How well does the zip tying hold it to the car to prevent any kind of vibration noise or damage?