dstar88

hella nice pics everyone!! to bad i dont know how to take a good picture....not..(i just mess around to much) Daniel

yea bring it, ill give it a shot. Daniel

i dont have one, but looking at the manual online seems sort of like the one that i have. is the start boost settings separate for high and low? for mine, its for both high and low. But if it does have start boost settings for both high and low, try putting the high start boost setting to around 13 or 14lbs. and moving your set boost setting to say 18 lbs. make sure the gain is up pretty high to make sure that it does not over boost, then do a couple pulls and see if that works. if you only have 1 start boost setting like mine. try the start boost setting at around 10 psi. and see what it does for the low setting too. It should help out the high setting as well. you just have to tinker with the various settings to get this to start working. from what you described, it sounds like the solinoid is opening waay to fast in both settings. I was having the same problems with my EBC too. but after i started tinkering with the start boost setting i was able to dial the sucker in a little better. hopefully this info helps. did yours come with a manual.? did you buy it new or used? heres the manual just in case : manual Daniel

AHHAHHAHAHA!! yea 88-89 if you got one Scotty. Daniel

I actually need a drivers side seat belt buckle. the one with the red button that bolts to the center console side of the drivers seat...i need to get rid of these dame auto seat bents and use the manuals :-). so if anyone has one please bring it. Daniel

Well im a little behind on schedule. I just barely ordered up the tach converter. they said it would ship within 5-7 buisness days... so now im stuck waiting for a bit. thanks for all the info, this will help me out allot when i decide to switch to an msd unit. Daniel

really?? tis berry berry esstrange....i didnt get chet.. Daniel

indeed!, make sure your fuel system is in check and out of the way before you add more air or introduce more air to the engine. that will be one less thing youll need to worry about in the long run. Daniel

Not the compressor wheel inside, your just switching the housing that goes over the compressor wheel. no need to touch the wheels or unbolt them. So, looking back at those pics that Indy posted, your turbo that you ordered (the tc05-12a) has its compressor housing pointed directly over the valve cover and to the T/B mixer, thats for a non intercooled starion/conquest. your old 87 compressor housing from the other turbo (the td05-12a)points in the opposite direction twards the passanger side fender for the Intercooler piping since your car should be intercooled. What your going to want to do, is put that compressor housing (from the old tdo5-12a) on your new turbo so that it faces the passenger side fender just like the old turbo. that way you can just plug the I/C hose right back into it. all other coolant and oil lines should be just fine as well. some of this process is also called "clocking" the compressor housing. other then that little swap. From what Indy pointed out, they are pretty much the same. hopefully that cleared it up a little bit for ya. Daniel

can someone put this on the yahoo group for me so we can make sure everyone knows? i dont quite have the time to do yet at the moment. Daniel

im tellen ya man, all you gota do is remove the snap ring behind the compressor housing on your old turbo, and on your new one that will be coming in to you shortly. then swap housings and put the snap ring back in. It will take no more then 5 minutes to do, 10 minutes if you want to grab a soda and some chips at your local mini mart down the street after you pull the housings off. its a very easy switch to do, i would let my 10 year old cousin do it if he wanted to. and i would most definitely not take a chance on a crack in any part of the housings, have it be exhaust or compressor. if its cracked, it will only get bigger and worse in time. you can get all sorts of drivability problems with a crack in an exhaust manifold, turbo exhaust housing/compressor housing. see what Indy posted above, the turbo you ordered is going to go straite into your mixer bowl and bypass your intercooler. Because thats the way that the TC05-12a's where set up. the old starion/conquests did not have an intercooler back in those days. that simple 5 minute swap will make things waaaaaaayy easier on you man. Besides, now you have a chance to say that you actually messed with a turbo at the age of 16...lol Daniel

neeeoooiiicee!!!

Ok, Thanks man. Daniel

Can you give me an update with mine at least...since i still try to remain quiet about all this ______ ( <-insert what ever you want to call it here). will i still be getting a 17c soon?...reall soon..hopefully?... Daniel

whaaaat!!!? you aint goin to vegas? beter be a dam good excuse! anywho.. im down, i think im free on saturday. Sunday ill be a little busy. does this mean i have to wash my car?.. Daniel

hmm... looks like its for a non I/C starion/ conquest. in other words it looks like its for an older starion/conquest maybe around the years 83 or 84 or so. if the listing is true, and it has a 12a compressor wheel on it. Then swap the compressor housings on the new turbo. Use the old compressor housing and wastegate actuator. then it should bolt up pretty easily. as far as the exhaust housing goes. Im not sure about the exhaust wheel and size because its a TC05 instead of a TD05 (maybe the TC05 is a little smaller??)...dont know what the difference is. but the exhaust housing looks the same so it should bolt right up to stock d/p. the only problem i see with the one that you got is the compressor housing. Daniel

still wont work. the exhaust wheel is a little bigger then the stock 12a's. Hence the machining of the exhaust housing to fit it. the center cartridge needs to be turned upright since our turbos are set up to be upright. turning the turbo cartidge upright will then cause another problem, the wastegate actuator now wont work since the spot where it bolts to has been moved, you will then need to fab up a custom bracket to use the wastegate actuator. you will need a custom d/p made if you want to use the dsm exhaust housing. which will then cause another problem. the bolt pattern is the same from the exhaust housing to the manifold. But the dsm's use bolts. not studs. so now you have to tap and open the bolt holes to accept the studs from the stock exhaust housing. there is still a little bit of other things that need to be done to make it work, but thats the major stuff. you can do the above...or you can just machine the stock exhaust housing to accept the slightly bigger td05h exhaust wheel that comes on that 14b. And then get the stock compressor housing machined to accept the 14b wheel. Slap everything back together and then it will be pretty much bolt on. Daniel

son of a _____ !!!!!!.. Daniel

wooow!.. thats a low price! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vzJpHuhJIc&feature=related Daniel

Yessss!!! Daniel

if you dont want that holset, pm me the link!. ill take it :-D!!! Daniel

If you and I are on the same page....then thats a 10 fizle 4 to that. lol Daniel

Dam you Batman!!! Daniel

are you getting rid of the mustang rims?

true dat the engine is built to handle what ever though..so when i move out of state..its game on muuaahhahahaha. if i do that, i think the california law for it only limits it to driving to car shows and back. And driving it to and from a garage area. ill be even more limited going that rout. might as well just wait till i move. Daniel