StrayWolf83

Sound like the Fuel Pump issue I had with my 83. The car would start, idle great, then when I went to take it out of the driveway it would quit. I would have to wait about 15 mintues and then it would start up again, then die mintues later. When i pulled the access cover to the fuel pump, in the truck bay, I felt the pump. It was hot. The pump never made a noise to signal a problem, it would just get hot and cut off the fuel. After I replaced the pump, the same problem was happening of the car stalling after a about 10 minutes. That is when i found out the tank was not breathing to let fuel flow. That stupid plastic check valve by the charcoal canister was messing up and not letting the fuel tank breathe freely. It would build up the back pressure and causing the car to stall everytime. Took me a while to figure that mess out. Well,... Good luck Not sure of any of my suggestions help you, but I hope you find the problem faster then I did. Wolf

Cool,... I could use a few items off the 83 If you going to get the 83 Starion let me know, I want dibs on the lower air dam. (that is if it is not rusted to hell or un-salvageable) I could also use a few small parts under the hood and a few interior items as well. Depending on the exterior,... might want a few items there also. Wolf

Thanks gang. When I pull the car out of winter sumber, I will do some more test and check before running it on the road. I will keep everyone informed on my findings. Thanks for all your help. Happy Holidays everyone. Wolf

Thanks for the good information Mike.... The Aeromotie FPR that is currently on it is full adjustable from 35-55 PSI. I probably do not have everything set correctly upon the start up. I was more less happy to see it start and run without having 95+psi flowing. The car is now winterized on the side of the house. Once spring comes/ warmer weather, I will start it up and do some detailed checking and testing of everything. Should the PSI reading for fuel in and fuel out should be within 2-3 psi of each other??? (Will do) Thanks again everyone

Up-date .... 11-26-08 After months of problems, the car LIVES!!! I changed out the stock FPR for my aftermarket Aeromotive FPR. Still got the same results. Fuel feeding 95psi into the ECI unit and pulling out 20psi on the Aeromotive FPR guage. Did a lot of reading of the manual and spent many hours checking fuel lines and I finally found the problem. The Fuel tank was not releasing fuel vapor. The fuel tank was feeding fuel into the ECI and back out from the FPR causing a vacuum in the tank. I checked the fuel vapor line that leads from the fuel tank to the Charcoal cansiter in engine bay. I found the 2-way valve the links the fuel vapor line to the charcoal canister was messed up / not working. I order a new 2-way valve from the Mitsubishi garage and installed it. The car started up and ran GREAT !!!! I am now feeding 50psi of fuel into the ECI and have 42-45psi off the FPR running back to the tank. I wanted to say "THANK YOU TO EVERYONE" for your help and support over the past 6+ months. Wolf

PM Sent

Correct.... ECI (Sorry) The pressure reading is coming off a gauge I installed (T-off of) in the Fuel feed line. The FPR return hose has been pulled and NO to Little fuel is coming out. It seems the FPR is plugged and not letting fuel out. The fuel is backing up in the bowl and not letting fuel back out to the tank. I was not sure how the little elbow rubber hose under the FPR worked. If vacuum helped the FPR mechanically to allow the fuel to pass through it back to the tank. I will pull the brake boost hose tomorrow and cap it off to see what happens. Thanks guys.

10-31-08 = Up-date (Still having Fuel Pressure issues) Replaced bad the fuel pump and now have 95psi into the injectors. Changed out Fuel Pressure Regulator because i thought it was not working.... tried two different different FPR. Checked Vacuum coming off the ECI injector housing (the 3 port),... only have 5psi. I check all vacuum hoses... no leaks. Even unplugged all the vacuum hoses and only plugged back in the Distributor (far left port), and boost sensor (far right port). (as suggested by 83_project_toy on his 83) HELP ANYONE..... I am LOST once more.

Cool.... I stalled doing a remove of the other vacuum lines except for what you have listed. Question.... Cap off or leave open the other vacuum ports : Such as the temp sensor screwed on the intake ??? And the vacuum lines leading over the MAF canister?? EGR and other little vacuum ports leading off of the intake and ECU unit?? (I did see you capped off the center port on the bottom of ECU bowl) Thanks Wolf

------------------------ How is the car running with a total of 4??? I would love to see how a picture of that.!!!!

tonight work : Checked the return line to the tank fromt he FPR = No blockages (blow air back to the tank and could here bubbles) Did a test hose off the FPR to a container. = Very little fuel flowing into the container (still pushing 95+ psi from the pump) Checked the vacuum hose coming off the bottom of the FPR = seems solid and good (no breaks/rips/snuggle fit) Checked the vacuum pull off that little hose that pluggs into the ECI bowl = very little vacuum Q/A = How much vacuum should there be to operator the FPR (Lots or Little) I will change out the FPR tomorrow with my spare FPR. After that I will have to change out the oil for fever of Fuel run off before attempting anything less.

Thank you everyone for all your Help!!! UP-DATE = 10/14/08 OK,.... final my fuel germlin has been found. (Fuel Pump failing under boost load) After all this time of not being able to get Air to Fuel ratio correct and the car not coming to boost during test drive,.... the problem showed its self last week. While idling in the garage for about 15 minutes the fuel gauge on the fuel feed line started to fluxuate from 45 to 35 to 40 to 20 and stale. Restated the car and check the fuel pump. I could hear it and feel it pulsing and struggling. Dropped the tank this weekend and changed out the Fuel pump for a Bosch model #69400 (did not need anything high performance). Installed the pump, checked the wiring, cleaned the tank and filters. Installed the tank back and reset the ECU. Had few issues priming the fuel back into the lines, but the fuel pump final started flowing fuel. The car start and ran. BUT..... .... NOW,... I am seeing the Fuel pressure gauge spike to 95 psi. (OH SH#* !!!!!!!) I shut the car off and the pressure dropped to 40psi. Released the pressure off the fuel lines and checked the Fuel pressure regulator and reassembled. Restarted ..... back up 95 psi. OK,... My guess is the fuel pressure regulator is messing up !?!?!?! (BUT HOW) Is the fuel pressure regulator on the 83 starion vacuumed controlled like everything else in the car??? If so ,... were do I start checking for vaccum pull?? (the small elbow line under regulator???) Or could regulator just be gone/dead!?!? Thanks gang P.S..... (Already checked every hose and connect for leaks while searching for the first germlin to show it head = all bad hoses replaced)

----------------------------- How did you do that??? Engine swap or is there some up-grade that can be made???

Hi Gang,... I have a generally easy/stupid question,.. :confused0024: .. but can't seem to find a answer on how to test out if a vacuum sensors are working properly. The 2 areas in question are : Vacuum sensor located on the firewall next to the boost sensor. AND the 2 vacuum sensor mounted on the left fender wall above the Electronic Spark Controller. (See attached photos) thanks Wolf

PM Sent for Parts

Scotty PM Sent about Rims + Parts

Hey Scott... 4 or 5 lug rims?? (Could use a spare tire for the 83.) Wolf

PM Sent

----------------------- PM Sent - Electrical wiring Wolf

PM Sent Earlier for Air Dam and parts. Wolf

OK,.. I took a look at the Boost/Pressure sensor on the firewall. The hose are good the Sensor, but the 3 port vacuum device next to it had an issue. I must have hit while installing the ECI after rebuilt. I broke one of the vacuum line come off it. The plastic nozzle came off with the vacuum hose leaning against the device. The plastic nozzle is still inside of the hose. (DAM ) OK,... just need to find one of those things now.... Anyone no what they call it so i can see if the Auto Parts store sell them? Or am I ... S.O.L. Fuel Pressure Check ... started up the car again (without the turbo line connected) and the Fuel Pressure is running 43 at idle. If you give it gas the pressure holds at 40-41.

The MAS sensor is in the Air Filter canister. Booster Sensor,....???? I hate to sound like an idiot,.. but,... Would that be the little silver box on the firewall above the Brake system??? Next to the Silver box is a little cylinder shape vacuum device with vacuum line going from the ECI to,... Yes, the 83 has one. When i checked the fuel pressure,.... incoming is 41. Stays that way even when the car bogs out.

Well,... I did a quick change back to the way the car was set up originally. (Stock 12A connect directly to the ECI) Quess what ,... I am running into the same problem. The car keep shutting off/bucking as soon as I give it gas. AFR gauge dropps to no reading. I decided to disconnect the ovcp from the turbo to ECI and let the ECI breathe normally. The car ran perfectly. OK,... any ideas now. (I'm starting to loose it,.... then again you can't loose something you don't have )

Ok Gang.... I seems I have no luck with this car. Started it up Saturday after reinstalling the (know to be good) working wastegate. The wastagate is now leveled out with the exhaust connection and moving freely/easily. Attached all the IC piping and tightened everything down. Started the car and bam... fuel leak off a hard line fitting. Long story short.... I fixed the Fuel leak and started it up again today (monday). NOW here is what i got .... - Idles good (800-900rpm) = 10 degree above center. - Air Fuel Ratio great = dead middle of gauge at idle. - Started to drive her around the block = the minute I gain boost the AFR looses all reading on the gauge, car bucks/stalls, and loss of power. Let up on the gas and the AFR gauge goes back to normal reading. - Add more gas / power the boost gauge drops spikes to 0psi, and the above process starts over with bucking/stalling - let the car idle everything is normal. - did notice the boost gauge showing at idle to be 4-5psi under 0psi. That is not normal=right?? (My 1989 TTA would always be at 15-17psi under 0psi when at idle.) When I place the car in gear the boost will drop to 10psi under 0psi. I'm at a loss.... No vacuum leaks I can find, idle & timing good, injector are firing great, fuel pressure is 40 psi. Once everything cools, I'm going to pull the turbo tonight and install the original 12A back in to see what I get.

------ YES, the picture shows a few of the clamps are off the splicd in peice over the valve cover. Sorry about that,... I actually took a few of the clamps off when I came back from my test drive. I had to removed a few clamps so I could pull the valve cover off to retight the head bolt down and check the value cleanances. I just placed everything back together quickly to show everyone the set-up. (Sorry gang) Tonight I am going to reset the Wastegate's position to make the rod more paralel with the wastegate valve on the turbo exhaust. See if that helps a little.