Cloud81918

My is M6 is waiting to have exactly that done to it.

Yeah, SM s where a lot of modded cars end up. Few people take it seriously at the regional level, but the national guys are dead serious. They also have a lot of money in their cars. But regionally many modded WRXs, Evos, Honda swap-jobs and such find their way into SM.

The Redline ION was a supercharged 2L Ecotech. The Cobalt SS was fist released as a SCed 2L Eco-tech. But later was turboed. (They also had a NA version). The Sky Reline and the Solstice GXP were Turbo 2L. All are single. But he is a guy wanting more performance. Jumping technologies, especially when you currently are using the one with the most potential, is a little odd. With some tweaks, a G54B can match his friends SS. I'm all for doing things that can be seem as goofy when you are looking to make something different and have money to spend. But if all you want speed, why not do what is easy, inexpensive and proven.

First, it isn't a 1.6l. If I recall the SS is a 2 liter Ecotech. Second, a stock SS supercharged runs 12psi. Third, it spins much faster than a G54B. Horsepower loves RPMs. Forth, the Ecotech is a more modern engine design with a head the breathes. The G54B is an engine designed in the 70's. Fifth, the SS uses nice short gears. In the 80's few people road tracked cars. Sports cars were very GT-ish. As for going supercharger, why? The topic of Super Vs Turbo had been debated a lot, but if you have either already installed I see little reason to throw it out for the other. A pully upgrade or a boost controller can easily net you more power than switching entire technologies. Turbos are better at making big power. They are more efficient than sapping power from the engines belt system as they get most of their power from waste. They are also better at getting good MPG while cruising. New Turbo designs and intelligent piping makes for low lag setup as well. There is really only one place where they fail and that is throttle control. I'd advise against going SC. But don't take my word for it, Chevy would also tell you to go turbo. They introduced a Turbo SS Cobalt, that all reviews have agreed is a much better car. It make something like 40HP more and is far more tuneable. Saddly by the time it came out it was too late, the Neon SRT-4 had already run off with the market. For a bit more Turbo Starion love here are 2 videos I watched last night. He is running an engine out of an Evo, so it is a newer engine than the G54B, it is is still a blast to watch. He claims 500HP, both are in the wet so he has a hard time putting it down.

It is a classic example of someone not letting a faster cornering car past because they "beat" them in the straights. The Mustang is a great track car and could probably hold its own against this Porsche given the same driver skill. But the Mustang driver was a bit off and the Porsche driver was pushing him to go even faster. If someone is one you for as long as the Porsche driver was on this Mustang let them go by before you throw your car in the dirt.

The '89 Si I've been co-driving this year is manual steering. I'm not a fan. My Saturn has PS. The manual with sticky tires can be dangerous. In a spin the wheel will snap around and any attempt to grab the wheel can really beat you up. A guy in our SCCA club broke his thumb because of that; Luckly I have only pulled arm muscles. Manual racks offer more feel, but I'm not much of a fan. My Lotus steering is manual as well and while fine for driving, it is heavy on slow turns with sticky rubber. I feel like I'm faster with a power rack, they tend to be faster lock to lock and they never get away from me.

I'll be watching this thread closely. I have a been autocrossing competitive, modified FWDs in STS an ST for a while, but I'm looking at running my 86 next year in SM. One thing that should be noted, but isn't yet is tires and alignment. These make all the difference. I'm new to dialing in a RWD, but since these cars have strong LSDs, I'd imagine healthy camber numbers are in order. Especially the front with it's McStruts. E36s are probably a good place to look for starting number, unless anyone one here has some good settings. I will be running: Eibach Springs GR-2 front and MK1 rear dampers MK1 poly bushings Mk1 camber plates Mk1 front and rear bars Big 16g Hardpipes with BOV Marnel Head with 1mm os valves and Schnider springs Mechanical rockers with mech cam. No balance shaft MK1 3 inch exhaust SS brake lines Schroth 4 point harness There are lots of other parts going on as well, but these will actually mater to some degree. The car is in surgery right now. I would say when it will be done, but honestly everytime I say a date I have a setback. I have some of the things to go MPI, but I'll probably be running the car in the above form this season. The car will probably be be a good local contender and could place well regionally, but nation level stuff will tear it apart. I'm just looking to cut my teeth on RWD and have a fun car that my whole family can fit into. I have a couple of different possible wheel combos as I have 2 regular fronts, 4 regular rears and 2 SHP rears. At some point I'll get some aftermarket wheels, but for now I'm just going to have all of the stockers powdered. *Just saw your pics, I'm building your cars brother. What year is yours? http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/48/l_c42d27f8e74b1b1051619fedd03f34da.jpg http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/40/l_5fc102a69c0b48c12e397427225924fe.jpg

Interested in flywheel, door handles and boost controller. Pics and prices?

I think making all of the part available separately takes care of the velcro shoe wearers. It seems that too many companies try to do the bolt on setup and it isn't that simple. If you make it separate parts you weed out some of the folks that probably aren't ready to handle it. Thoe that will be able to build it will probably succeed. I'm looking forward to seeing the *DM stuff.

Looks like a Hiem joint to me. you could probably source, something, but there isn't much need to, they are normally nice an tough.

One thing that car help (helps on another application, not starquest specific) is to take wire wrap loom and wrap the low couple of coils. You can find the loom at Radio Shack. Make sure you are getting wrap loom, not split loom. It give a bit of cushion around the base of the spring, which can help ease the clunking. You can try zip tieing the most upper an lower coil to their respective seats, but don't expect that to be a long lasting approach. But there is no perfect fix if the springs are too short.

Thanks, I'm sure many more will gain from this explanation as well. Thanks for asking this Bigred; I had just figured that the stock gauge was just crappy.

This is a hard to pin down definition. I don't think a supercar needs to be limited production, it just needs to place performance first. It needs to be all about the driver. Those in the drivers seat need to be looked at in envy. Sitting in the driver seat should be you feel special. They should be things of beauty. In that way Corvettes, Supras, TT RX-7s, TT 350zx and 3000GTs fit the mold. The offered fantastic performance for their time and other that having a prancing horse on them and limited numbers there is little separating them from European supercars. Don't confuse Supercar with Exotic. While one car can be in both groups they are not the same. For instance a plain non-turbo 4-cylinder Lotus Esprit is not really a supercar, but is certainly an exotic. The opposite is true for a Z06 C5 Corvette, which is definably a supercar, but is hardly exotic. Also the upper strata of supercars have are now being called hypercars. They get to the price is no object strata; and are just insane. Don't use them as a description of supercar. While they still are, they are amazing and a bar placed to high for more modest supercars to compete with. Compared to a Mclaren F1 a Diablo wouldn't be allowed to be a supercar if the F1 was the definition; neither would 355, Porsche Turbo or NSX. As said it is hard to pin down, but by combining power, handling, beauty and driver focused design, I'd say that in the late 80's and early 90's Japanese car markers made a army of supercars; 300ZX TT, 3000GT VR-4, RX7 TT, Supra Turbo, NSX, arguably the MR-2 Turbo. In my mind our Starquests are sportcars, but I doubt anyone would argue otherwise.

I was halfway though my suspension upgrade when I released I was missing some parts. No problem, it isn't that far, I just threw the tires back on. http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k240/anv1lvtx/129163453444475607.jpg

While what you say is correct. I doubt the Mitsubishi was thinking about the car's ability to spin tires from the factory.

There are lots of hotrodder folks playing with flathead still, so I think we are fine playing with a more advanced design than a small block Chevy. Personally I like the 2.6, mainly for it unquieness. It is a big turbo 4, what is not to love. While it may not be the most promising turbo powerplant, it moves around with swagger and is properly period to the car.

Could they be talking about the non-US spec 2.0. I think the 2.0 was a 4g, but I don't know. In England I know they went from the 2.0 to the 2.6 and there are a handful of reports that I read saying that was a mistake. Most of the remarks hovered about making the car less of a top end screamer and more muscle-car like.

I once had someone claim they were with the IRS and that the Police would come have have my car impounded if I didn't pay $250 over the phone (of course Caller-ID didn't come up). My wife has worked in tele-services for quite some time, and currently works for the Social Security Dept. Tele-services group; I know what she does and the rules she has to follow. This guys phone etiquette was horrid, at first I thought he was one of my friends trying to mess with me. He denyed the call being a joke and even said that no caller ID blocking was done. Wanting to insure that was just a scammer, I asked him what my home address was, or where I worked, or any other information he could give me that I could verify. Then I asked him why he was calling me a 10:30PM, which is outside of the calling time band in most states. He couldn't answer any of those questions reasonably. I asked for his supervisor. He said he wasn't there (Read: didn't exist). I asked him for a call back number, which he gave, me but I figured it was bogus (it was, I later checked). I then informed him that impersonating an IRS employee trying to get money was a federal offense. He still insisted that he was with the IRS and my car would be impounded. So I asked which car. He couldn't tell me. So again I then repeated this time in a stern and serious voice that impersonating an IRS employee would land him in Federal prison, and he again insisted. Finally I told him that my car will be fine and that I knew he is not with the IRS and if anyone comes for my car I have a bullet with their name on it. He then spouted off something about that he was a drug dealer and had a pistol hanging off his hip and some other bullstinky. I answered with, "Come get my car, the bullet is waiting", then hung up. Want really irks me is that not everyone engages their brain when it comes to these scams. Anyone calling wanting you to give a payment over the phone for anything should be questioned extensively. They should be able to give you call back information and you should verify such info before you even think about taking any payment action. If the call is legit, whatever company will be fine with you paying via a non-phone means. The only time that may not be true is with CC companies, as they will sometimes give you a "last call" call before turning you over to a collection agency; If your in that boat you are already in hot water. Still, tell them you will call back in.

I'm sorry if I shouldn't have ordered an air diverter panel. Hopefully it won't cause an issue. If it causes and issue I can purchase just the double din and then you can refund me my first purchase. I don't remember seeing anything on the page saying I should talk to you first. Perhaps it would be worth putting something up there?

It is at the end. It is impressive. When I was in highschool I could leg press a max of "720lb", which was the max of the machine. It was a pully/weight machine and I'm not sure how accurate it was; The whole machine looked about ready to give way. I could do rep set of 12 with the next highest weight which was some where around 650. I was 147Lb at that time. I only did distance running, sprints and bicycling though and was rather weak upper body-wise I've since let myself go a fair bit but I'm getting back in shape. I've been dropping weight and adding muscle over the past 4 months. I've gone from 208 to 195 during that time. I'm 5'10 and most would say I look about 180lbs or so. I guess people have good reason to say I'm dense, hehe. I'm nursing a knee I stressed during a swat and then twisted later, but I had gotten back to 450 before the injury on gravity leg press similar to the one he is using in the video. I have been taking it easy, doing mostly cardio and upper body as I let my knee heal, but I hope to be back on the press soon.

Sweet you have money, I bought a Diversion Pannel as well, hopefully that isn't a problem. -Jerred (Cloud81918)

Are these still being made, I would love a double din.

Awesome!!! Looks like a ton of fun. I'm helping with a car that is doing the Albuquerque Turkey race this year. Basically, Chumpcar was suppose to be here, then pulled out, so a local racing group is putting it on instead. The race is in September. We hope to have the car running in the next month or so and get some testing in. We will be using a first gen RX-7, but are not sure if we will still try to run the rotor-motor or ditch it for a Ford small block. We have 2, 12As that seem good. But who knows when they will break. Rotarys also get pretty poor mileage.

Perhaps that is how they treat family? "WE TAKE PRIDE IN TAKING CARE OF OUR CUSTOMERS AS WE WOULD OUR FAMILY "7" DAYS A WEEK " -From the Ad

Yeah, I thought that was funny too.