Whiplash

When I lived there in the early 1980's the police drove Jaguar V12's on the motorway. I was one of several cars doing 80 in a 70 mph zone. One police jag pulled up along side me to check out my 1968 Jag. I thought they were going to pull me over. When I looked at them they just waved and floored it. Just a wisper and they were gone. That was so cool!

20 years from now someone will tear down that engine and think they have a special OEM part not avail. to the public!

Melling oil pumps are one of the best. I work with some product analyst engineers and the failure rate on Melling is less that .0001%. BTW Melling have not made a turbo oil pump for the Mitsu 2.6L engine in more than 15 years.

I agree with Tim.

Yes. You match up the marks on the gears to the chrome plated links on the chain.

I also am an ex SAAB tech. Associate degree SAAB tech. Do they still have the SAAB training school in Atlanta?

If it only smokes at first start up I would lean towards valve stem seals, or valve guides. After the engine is warmed up and the metal has expanded and the engine still blows smoke I would lean towards the rings.

A quick first check we did was to bump the MAF housing with your hand, while the engine is running. If the engine missed or stumbled, then the MAF failed the first check and needed replaced.

Yes! And a crack between the valves is a common place for them to crack.

It would coat that much or more to PC them.

And yes I'm getting old!

I know what you're talking about. They have been discontinued from the manufacturers for many years.

Just an FYI. The crankshaft end play should be from .002 - .007. Before you remove the main caps check to see if the thrust main cap is alined with the block. That might be the issue.

That is the cheapest price I have ever seen for one. If anyone needs some you better get them.

I can get the 214-2134 for about 23.14 each plus S&H. Hyd Intake 214-2135 for 18.16 + S&H. Hyd Ex 214-2136 for 17.13 + S&H. Mech Int. 214-2137 for 22.49 + S&H. Mech Ex Anyone beat those prices please let me know.

I can get them. Which ones are you looking for?

Roller camshafts do NOT need a break-in additive. Waste of money.

You want the port on the head to be smaller than the exhaust manifold. It give a ledge to keep the exhaust gases from backflowing.

No issues on breaking in a roller cam. If it was a flat tappet cam there would be break-in process.

1974 Jaguar XKE V12 Conv. http://www.schmitt.com/viewimage.asp?ID=3741

2242781 were for the NON-TURBO engines. Specs are: Comp. Dis. = 1.395 Dia. recess = 2.670 Recess depth = .130 Ring Conf. = 2.0 MM 2.0 MM 4.0 MM

A rare find. I friend had a mint blue one in Memphis when we worked at SAAB. It has the V4 engine that was also used in some Ford tractors, and in some industrial applications. Parts still can be gotten. But getting harder. Contact me if you get it and need help finding engine parts. It's worth MUCH more with the factory engine.

You might need Chrome rings instead to handle the high heat and boost from the turbo. I think chrome is all you can get, other than plain cast iron.

If I had the funds I would jump on it. That is the best body style of the XJ series to me. I love those euro headlamps. Does it come with the remote lock? If so I think you can roll up the windows with it. My uncles did. Those wire wheels were at least a 2K option.

I've had a total of a 2.5% pay raise over the last 4 - 5 years. Cut 2 folks from one dept. Then took 14% pay from us including me. I made more more than this 15 - 20 years ago. Yeah! I'm looking for another job. I've been here over 10 years, and will miss the people I work with. Great team. So anyone hiring for a dance pole inspector? :biggrinumbrella1: