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That's how you move forward. You learn nothing following what someone else says as far as upgrading your individual setup since no two are ever alike or are driven the same. I'm sure I don't drive you like do. For the most part I drive under the speed limit but if I hit 40psi on upshifts from 2-4 its no big deal you're talking fractions of seconds of being there but those new so called performance cars are way behind you by then and that's about all that matters to me its not about top speed. There's always going to be another car that's faster than you are. You say do this and not that and you need to add in ten pages of other details about what that means exactly and ten more of dos and don'ts. The only bad part of what you do is like anything else its always about heat and how quick its generated and it has nothing to do with boost pressure. You remember that yellow car on the dyno in California with all the high numbers? How long did that all last in total? 3 seconds? How did that effect the cooling system? How did that effect the water pump rpms and the flow rate in both the radiator and the block and in all of the block or just part of it? How does the flow rate in the front of the block differ from the back of the block at say 6000 rpms? This is what blows up the motors, its this horrible uneven heating and its always hot in the back of this motor. Its not hard to see how that is happening but what did you see anyone do about it? I never saw anyone do anything about it. You'd think they would use the rear mounted water pump or leave those Magna intake thermostat housings in the back or use a forklift water pump and blow the coolant into the side of the block and use a Magna head and two damn thermostats but oh that would make too much sense I guess its just easier to copy what Joeblow did cause it worked for him. Maybe by now that motor is all blown up and you're still trying to play catch up and while he's moved forward 5 times you are still with a stock POS setup. That's the case with me. You think I've told EVERYTHING I've done of have I'm working on? Hell no. I'm done with telling that you can try and understand why you get different air fuel ratios at idle when you change your compressor wheel that's how ignorant most are in here. Its pretty basic but its all covered up by BS.

only if you never cook in your oven, are not married and live alone persoanly I use a large toaster oven for my powder coating

they are probably on the 240sx forums?

Almost all of those prices are reasonable. Damn near 30 year old cars in perfect condition, all original un-restored, and less than 50,000 miles? The only unreasonable ones are the ???? miles car and the the cheapest one with 162,000 miles and restoration work. 32,000 miles for $10,000 very reasonable. ????? miles for $16,500 screw that! 19,000 miles for $15,000 very reasonable. 42,000 miles for $11,000 is a bit pricy unless rare options. Is a blue Auto rare for 1988? 163,000 miles for $6,900 restored, not stock, high miles... but in great condition. Probably the least reasonable one listed here even though it is the least expensive. Anything over 50,000 miles or aftermarket parts (even audio equipment) isn't a collector car unless returned to stock and fully restored... but bone stock, un-restored, perfect condition and under 20,000 miles? Buy it and store it! I almost felt guilty about buying a 57,000 mile 1984 for $2,500 but that didn't stop me from handing over the $$$. Keith

Got Apple Pie? http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/421164_10150699314575336_1730654291_n.jpg

Thanks. Here are a couple pics of the mounts. And yes I have already replaced the mitsu portion of them with new ones. Drivers side: http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/mmdrivers1.JPG http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/mmdrivers2.JPG Passenger side: http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/mmpass1.JPG http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/mmpass2.JPG