hyselltech Posted May 16, 2009 Report Share Posted May 16, 2009 Hey guys i just got my car back together it has been a long time.Anyways i was wondering if there is a certain way to time the car.I used my timing light and it is say that it is were it should be but it doesnt have very good throttle response and i just want to make sure that im doing it correctly.I am a mechanic by trade but i work on mostly GMs and on gms there is a wire that you have to unplug in order to time it,is that the case on conquests?Also i was wondering if anybody knew of a good place to get a radiator as the one i have is junk?Thanks for any info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Only if you are at a very high altitude do you need to use the timing plug to set the timing. It disables the baro. sensor in the MAS then after you un-ground it the timing you see on the light will just advanced about 5 more degrees. You may have dirty injector clips but you should have the injectors cleaned. They dispense a very fine cone shaped pattern that appears as fog. If you compared them to other injectors say GM TBi they would look fine but actually would be horribly dirty and that would be an awful spray pattern. The fuel won't atomize under boost and it will mix like crap and make for hard starts and poor throttle response and lack of power. Your plugs get fouled. They could either be leaky dirty or clogged up dirty. www.witchhunter.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyselltech Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 The injectors are brand new from trilogy.First i need to get the radiator fixed and then i can drive it more.Should the timing be in the middle or should it be back 10 degrees? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Was the engine warmed up when you tested the timing? The ECU sends a signal to the ignition module to advance the timing an extra 5 degrees if the engine is stone-cold or if it's at high altitude (a couple thousand feet... not really all that high). If you set the timing on a stone-cold engine - i.e. are off by 5 degrees - it'll be a total slug. What year car? If it's an 87-later car, with the two different injectors, you might have them backwards. You should be able to unplug the electrical connector on the blue/green plastic banded injector (which should be in the injector hole closer to the valve cover) and still have the car start and idle perfectly. If it won't start, you probably had the electrical clips reversed. Whoops, just noticed you said you have the Trilogy injectors. They used to come with stickers that listed the flow rates, the "blue/green" one is the one with a 950 to 1080 sticker. The other one should be around 580 to 650. The engine should start/idle perfectly with just the 580 injector hooked up. If there are no stickers, take them out and look at the spray tips... the smaller one is the 580. Otherwise go to the FAQ and find the procedure for checking ECU error codes - all you need is a plain old voltmeter or a 12volt LED. Things that typically lead to low power: * dying fuel pump * blocked fuel pick-up sock in the fuel tank * blocked "cone" filter at fuel pump inlet * air leaks ANYWHERE between the airflow sensor lid and the throttle body/injection mixer. * Busted plastic finger on the Throttle Position Sensor (the round black cylinder at the base of the throttle body). A "sweep test" will verify the sensor is connected properly and working. Hook a voltmeter to 2 of the three wires of the TPS, turn the ignition key ON. If you see a solid +5 volts, move one voltmeter wire to the remaining wire... you happened to catch the +5 volt and ground feed wires. Ideally you'll find the sensor output wire and ground wire... it'll read about half a volt with the throttle plates closed, smoothly increasing as you slowly open the throttle. * stuck advancer weights/springs inside the distributor. * mis-routed vac hoses. With the engine idling and your timing light connected, unplug the vac hose going to the distributor vacuum advancer. If the timing changes (i.e. if there was vac in the hose) then the vac hoses are mis-routed. The distributor vacuum advancer should see "ported" vacuum which is pretty much zero vac at idle, building up at part-throttle, and then nothing at full throttle. * Crappy gas from sitting in the tank for months. mike c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 numbers befor the ^ indicate advance this is on the left side faceing the engine from the front,, numbers after the ^ or TDC indicate retard , you want 10 BTDC or 10 left of the tdc mark , check with no vac line to vac advance unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyselltech Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 I think it might be the fuel, I added about four gallons of 97 to it but it had about four gallons of old fuel still in it. I drove it and the more i drove it the better it ran.I just need to get the radiator fixed then i can drive it more and i think after i drive it more it will run better.Thanks again for all the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 with a 20 gal gas tank 3 or 4 gal is not enought to maintain a good fuel flow,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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