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New Dyno numbers


barbercb
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I think he says he went to TEP and bent over and said give it to me.  Then Steve told him his car had 500 hp.  

 

My brother has every part HKS ever made for the Starion on his car and it was nowhere near 15K.

 

Feel free to explain these numbers. HKS doesnt even make 15 grand of parts for our application.
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I think the only things HKS ever made for our cars were: (approx prices)

 

EVC $200

clutch $300

flywheel $300

cam $250

BOV $200

F-CON $500

full off road exhuast $500

 

and i highly doubt TEP had a Stage 3 engine back when these stuff were still sold through HKS. and just how did they get rid of the MAS sensor? back when we got our TECII system in early 90s when it had just come out, TEP was probably selling chicken feed.

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Keep in mind this kid is 17, all sorts of banks give out loans for 15K to teenagers all the time, maybe since it was 15K of imaginary parts it was a 15K imaginary loan ... come on now, it could happen.  Chya and monkeys might fly outa my butt!!  

 

Sorry all for the unjustified Waynes World Quote, I wont let it happen again.

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Well, the age thing works off of your birthdate, so unless you lied in the first place about your age, you're still 17...

Also, before going into this "I have a supra motor" stuff, do realize that we are all tuners, and also we know exactly what it takes to fit a supra I6, and tranny into the SQ....So, how did it fit?

 

There's too many different stories going on here within a LITTLE amount of time, watch what you say cause you can bet someone will remember...

 

 

Other than that, welcome....But know this, people will ask for ALL KINDS of info about this, and you'll need many pictures....

 

 

John

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i didnt waste my time with part by part crap i had my quest for three weeks i got a big loan out and went nuts at topend stage3 motor 20g turbo no mass air meter.

basically to make this long story short i gave hks 15000 and got 513 rwhp and 524.7pft

 

 

So your saying you bought a TEP stage 3 Supra Motor? for $6200!! I'd pop that motor open and check to make sure they actually did everything they TOOK you for!

 

and why would you bolt a whimpy 20G onto a motor like that?

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LoL, I was sooo lost in this thread, then to realize at the end his posts were deleted.  I was like what the hell are they talked about, who are they flaming?  Got it now.  Sorry little off topic.  laters
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1. 8.794 @ 79.200 mph (Cooper_TSi) THE MAN!

2. 8.979 @ 76.770 mph (UltimateLurker)

3. 9.044 @ 82.050 mph (barbercb)

4. 9.362 @ 75.380 mph (Terry Wilson)

5. 9.722 @ 73.540 mph (ZP128 )

6. 9.741 @ 64.000 mph (tonytsi)

7. 9.770 @ 72.190 mph (mopar_guy) unverified  

8. 9.798 @ 73.951 mph (TsiRacer)

9. 9.814 @ 70.420 mph (Nip944)

 

 

Taken from the 1/8 and 1/4 mile list, posted by UL in the kills section....I'm not sure about cooper_tsi, but UL has a stock bottom end...That 8.979@76.770 is on the 12a also...

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  Hi there, I just installed a 19G turbo and the Ramchargers MAF tranlator as well.  We also built a custom stainless header, and 3" downpipe and new hardpipes to and from the turbo/intercoolers. I went with a HKS Super sequential BOV, and a Blitz Dual SBC to control things which I limit to 60% to keep the factory bottom end alive,. I have a new Clearwater head without the 3rd valve, and a TEP 284 solid lifter cam. I upgraded the fuel supply with stainless lines from the fuel filter to the billet Aeromotive RRFPR, and a Bosch 350 GPH pump at the tank.  I am running the factory intake, and injectors, and everything seems to be good until I hit about 5000 RPM where it bucks like a complain. I usually only notice it when I am in 1st gear where it spools so damn quick, its hard to catch it, and upshift, or maybe the smae in 2nd gear when I am approaching a freeway onramp.  The car pulls like a rocket, and I have seen 15-18 lbs of boost right when it starts bucking, and I have to lift, and upshift.  I have Autometer Cobalt series A/F and mechanical Boost gauge to monitor things.  I have been told that the Autometer A/F gauge isnt the best choice since its primarily designed for normaly aspirated engines, and under excess boost, a turbo car hits the 11:1 ratio which is way off the Automers scale.  I may have a slight short since under everyday freeway cruising, it will show a nice even yellow level, then fall completely off scale, then right back to where it was.  Under hard boost, it can scramble all over the place, and I am not sure where it is, or if I am hurting something.

  I read another guys post about a bucking coming on at 4500 RPM and alot of guys said it might be his RRFPR giving too much fuel and flooding the plugs out.  My mechanic doesnt think that, he thinks its running out of fuel, and I need a seccomndary Injector setup, which I am looking at getting.  We want to put it on a chassis dyno to really tweak the Translator box better, and see what engine readings we can pull out. I am running some huge 9MM plug wires, and NGK plugs, but I am not sure what #, or what he gapped then at.  Fausto used to be the head mechanic at Epperson Mitsubishi in Cleveland TN, so he is familiar with these cars, and has 2 of his own, and has worked on several oither StarQuests in thsi area.   What is your feelings on the bucking problem?  Any suggestions on settings for plugs, RRFPR, and the translator box?   Thanks,   Douglas in Chattanooga  (BlueByU)

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It'd be better for you to post this as a new thread in the Virtual mechanic section.. Not too many people come in here, compared to other sections...

 

Other than that... I'd say you should check the fuel pressure at idle and check it while you're on the road...

 

Also, the ECU has a fuelcut if it goes above a certain boost pressure... Is your car an 87 or an 88-89?  The 87's will have a boost cut at 14psi...And the 88-89's have a cut at 18psi....

 

You can copy and paste what you've just wrote, so that you don't have to write the all over again...

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BBU  Check your plug gap.  If it is too large you could be blowing out your spark at high boost pressures.  Try some where around 28 to 32.  Also you may be hitting your fuel cut like Justpaus said. I would get it on a dyno with wide band asap to find the problem. IF you are running lean its only a matter of time before meltdown and you have to do a bottom end rebuild.  :(
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