More Engine info for archiving

[Tim_C.]

Well, I just got the TEP Race Prepped Crankshaft in the block.

Went to pick up the block and the machinist had it sitting on the line hone machine. It is a long (4' or so) rod with stones all along the sides.  We split hairs to .0005".  That's how close to perfect it came out.  It was so far out of spec that it would not have lasted long, and Steve at TEP says they line hone all of them now because they found that out.  Just about all of the 2.6's are out enough to need the honing even if they are in spec, it is good to hone them and have the main caps reconditioned. The cap bolting surfaces get warped at an angle to where the mating surfaces are not flat/flush w/each other.  Optimal is to have 100% contact between the cap and block.  Of course that is impossible, but only reconning the caps for line honing will get you close.

Checked my cylinders while we were there. They were tapered in at the top! I want to shoot my local machinist.  This other guy said if they are tapered, it is better to be in at the top, but that will make the rings work in and out, and wear out the ringlands on any piston for premature failure. So, we put some 280 grit hone stones on and cleaned that up, and then switched to 400 grit ones for a microhone that keeps the rings from having to wear in the wall as much.  The 280 stone is where most machinists stop at, but it leaves big peaks in the wall that the ring must wear down before it will seat.  This wearing down process decreases the life of the ring, and is a big reason many rebuilds won't keep oil as well as the original OEM build. Less wear on break-in=longer ring life.  This will help the TS Rings to seal faster and help prevent any blow-by issues.  The oil ring on TS is made by Perfect Circle, as is with Sealed Power, and other rings.  

When goin with ARP Rod bolts, it is best to recon the rod with those bolts. You can't just slap'em in and expect the rod to be the same.

Full floaters: .003 pin to rod clearance is where you want it unless running consistently above 7,000RPM (circle track or road race). The bushing will wear on the up & down side unless it is .002.

This machinist has many years working with TS Rings, and 4-cyl racing applications, and those are his findings along with the added knowledge from his racing customers. Steve at TEP knows much more than most on this site give him credit for. Buy from him and listen to what he says and you won't go wrong. Call him w/o buying anything, and waste his time, and he won't be as apt to let you in on the little things they do to make these engines run better. I have pics of the crankshaft work they do.

HTH

Tim C.

[Mark_T]

Thanksfor the info Tim.  This seems to confirm what I have foiund out in  D 50 blocks also.  I am not sure if it is slopy work at the factory or an inherant poblem with the design of the block?  So far every block I have Cked out seems to be out of true.

Have fun

Mark T

[Tim_C.]

I made a mistake on the full floaters figure.

It is .0002-.0003

Didn't add a zero!

Yeah, its about $100 for the line hone, but well worth it.

Tim C.

[Metric-man]

Tim,

Did you or your machiniest check the (dynamic) balance when you had gotten the crank from TEP?

Comparing our cranks to the 4G63 or even the 6G72 the G54B is huge... the diameter of our cranks are twice the size more on the order of a V8 than a 4

There is a lot of mass to them and I can see now why it is a good idea to have the block align honed.. I had it done to mine because I was reading Smokey Yunick's Power Secrets.

[Tim_C.]

bump