G63B Differences

[92 TSi AWD]

I know theres someone on here (Punisher, I believe) who has the Sirius Dash 2.0 4G63 block in his car. He said he didnt have to move anything forward in order to make room for the CAS and the rear outlet water neck.

 

Now I was wondering if the 2.0 SOHC block used in late 80s early 90s mitsubishi pickups would be the same cast as the Sirius motor. Is there anyone on here that has the G63B mated to the 4G63 head and not run into any fitment issues?

 

I dont think it would be very cost efficient to make 2 differnent blocks with very very minimal differences in motor mount locations. Wouldnt it be easier to just make the motor mounts themselves accomodate the differences?

 

I was going to do the 4G64 swap but than I decided to go with the G63B wideblock from the pickup since I have one readily available once I get the time to get it out. I just want to get the 2.0 motor in and running than im going to do the 2.4 wideblock.

 

-Mike

[MainstreaM]

You should do one or the other. All 4G6X blocks share mounting points, crank journal size, oil and timing mounts, etc. The differences are in the bore, stroke, deck height, squirters (mounts are present in all blocks but may not be machimed), and bellhousing width. The g63b is the pickup truck version of the motor, but all g63b's are not equal. The manual transmission trucks have the small pattern that will not work with the starion trans. You want the automatic truck block.

 

www.projectzerog.com

[92 TSi AWD]

Yes I know the automatic is what I need, and is actually the one I have. Im signed up on projectzerog, and it is a great source of info, but most of the information on that site is all over the place and you have to read thru alot of stuff to find the important parts.

 

Anyways, what I wanted to know is if there are 2 different castings of the wide G63B block since one member on here (Punisher) used the Sirius Dash 12V motor and didnt have to move anything forward to clear the parts on the back of the head (or smash the firewall in for that matter)

 

-Mike

[JustPaus_88TSi]

I could be totally wrong here, but the fact that the Dash is a SOHC 12V could have something to do with it.. :?

[92 TSi AWD]

Anyone on here have a 2.0 wideblock 4G63 car?

[MainstreaM]

Anyone on here have a 2.0 wideblock 4G63 car?

 

You would probably be better off asking at www.austarion.com . No US cars came with the 2.0 wideblock. I have one in my garage from the pickup but all the mounting points are the same.

 

Kane

[importwarrior]

when you say mounting points are the same, does that mean the truck engine mounts bolt right up to the subframe on the quest with no modding? what transmission did you use? or are you going to use?

[MainstreaM]

when you say mounting points are the same, does that mean the truck engine mounts bolt right up to the subframe on the quest with no modding? what transmission did you use? or are you going to use?

 

I'll be using truck block mounts and quest rubber mounts. Falls right in. I have a B2600 bell and RX7 TII trans going in mine.

 

Kane

[92 TSi AWD]

OK What I think would be beneficial to the entire 4G swapping community would be pictures of a G63B wideblock from the US pickup compared to pics of the 12V Sirius Dash block. Anyone know where I can find some? Also, what exactly did the 12V Sirius Dash motors come in?

 

-Mike

[MainstreaM]

Here are some high res pics of a 2.0 wideblock from a truck.

 

http://www.projectzerog.com/forum/viewtopi...&highlight=

 

more

 

http://www.projectzerog.com/forum/viewtopi...&highlight=

 

The DASH motors were mainly JDM, a few found there way into Australia. Even being from Japan, most starions came with the 8-valve head. The DASH is pretty rare in itself. Might can PM Punisher for some pics of his setup.

 

Kane

[importwarrior]

i would like to see the motor mount setup if you have pics of them.

[MainstreaM]

i would like to see the motor mount setup if you have pics of them.

 

The block mounts are in those pictures. You would then use the stock conquest rubber subframe mount. I'll have to snap some pics later.

 

Kane

[Punisher]

http://home.comcast.net/~tauna6/wsb/media/1299289/site1054.JPG

If you have a wideblock 2.0 everything will be fine but there is many choices after you get your wideblock like water pump , I mod the single cam truck pumps so I have a standerd hose connection to the rad. you need to do this because the DOHC timing/oil pump cover is differant/timing belt tensioner roller is the actual problem when fitting the SOHC water pump . than there is the matter of water outlet / there is a company that makes a front mounting water outlet for the DOHC heads / I just made my own . I also leave the back outlet on the head all but the t neck outlet .this is so you can run heater core , ISC and turbo if needed .This helps with proper Head cooling as well. You will need to use a body hammer on the firewall at the CAS and water housing locations if you do this right it will look fine I think I have pictures from 4 swaps ive done now .Take the CAS studs out from the DOHC head and use bolts so you can remove the CAS once your engine is installed If needed ever makes life nice. I also swap out the old radiator for a newer aluminum type find one at a local pull a part from a Hyundai they came with mitsubishi 2.0 engines to but have nice light plastic fans and the right water outlets , just be sure to mesure it for proper fit they did make a few differant radiators for those cars , but they are very good ones they will keep your car cool with almost no fan running at Idel . There is still more to consider in doing this swap , If you need more help I will try to answer questions .I have figured out the best parts selection to reach the closest Factory like fitment possible , I recantly found a brake vacume boost can with newer aluminum master cylinder that makes room for the magnus intake manifold to fit works great.

[MainstreaM]

I recantly found a brake vacume boost can with newer aluminum master cylinder that makes room for the magnus intake manifold to fit works great.

 

Got any details? You'd be more than welcome on Projectzerog.com

 

Thanks

Kane

[92 TSi AWD]

OK so I got around to figuring out the wiring situation on the swap and ran into problems.

 

On ZeroG, they state that I should be looking for a B38 connector. What it doesnt say, is where on the car the actual plug is located.

 

Punisher, do you have any pics of the hyundai radiator compared to the factory Starion unit? Looks like I have another part to add to the junkyard list.

 

-Mike

[Punisher]

Im going to ramble on for a minute bear with me its my form of a pep talk for anyone i will get you some pics up on the rad monday eve. didnt wast my time with all that I see a ecu the same as a standalone you just need the pinout IDs main things power ground you need battery back up this is full time 12v you need switched power this is when your key is on you need start power this is on only when key is in start position . the CAS ,injectors ,coil ,O2,TPS,knock,resistor pack ,ISC if you want and MAF . I use speed density much better system for messuring air no worries about open atmisphir BOV or even a small air leak .but youll need a stand alone for that or maybe a maf pro translator .oh ya just use the power wirers from the old ecu plug and hook your fuel pump relay to switched 12v power simply with a battery and a couple switches ecu harness engine you can fire it up outside a car on the ground LOL dont try it though . get the pinouts for your quest ecu and the pinouts for the eclipse ecu connect the dots simple .tac run wire to the new ecu , if I only had the time I would put a better web page up with movies on this I do these swaps alot out here so I just dont have time sorry good luck Oh and the harness info on 0G's site is not good for someone without alot of auto repair exp. just go with the basics pinouts pinouts from the to ecus and your VOM/multi meter should be very simple than .once you get this swap in you want ever care about that old tractor 2.6 engine so cut away at the old harness use heat shrink and solder always be clean it counts. oh and the fuel pump relay is way the heck up under the dash above the stock ecu location well time for bed cant think anymore peace...

[92 TSi AWD]

Any pics of that radiator yet? You said it was from an Elantra (which would be a 1.8) or the Sonata? (which I believe is a 2.0)

 

Where exactly could I find the B38 plug on an 86 Starion? Hopefully I can begin the wiring this weekend.

 

Also, I know on some swaps, It is recommended to use 1990 DSM parts (ECU, Coil pack, Power transistor, Throttle body, etc...) because perhaps the Starion uses similar wiring as to the 90 DSM??? I know the Dodge Colt Hatchback swap is like that but wasnt sure on the Starion.

 

Im hopefully going to get time to go to the junkyard this weekend. Let me know what radiator that is and maybe ill pick one up.

 

-Mike

[Punisher]

http://home.comcast.net/~tauna6/wsb/media/1299289/site1053.JPG

ok b38 is around the heater core box I memory severs me Ill look lucky for you I have one in stripped mode quest getting full remake . I really think its much simpler to just put your eclipse harness in use power wires from the conquests ecu plug jump them to your eclipse harness ecu plugs add tack wire from your eclipse ecu to your quest tac and hook your quests fuel pump relay to switched power . ill see about doing a pic of that radiator for you today I really dont remember the car I pulled it from I run around the bone yard so often and for many hours I often forget were I get things from LOL just look for your mechanical needs ,thats what I do .I dont worry about make or model just wether it will fit or alot of fabing will be needed . your radiator you want will have the inlet close to the center the outlet will be in stock location as your quests is , you really want it to have a filler cap on the tank so you dont need that goofy filler neck .

[batdude8]

now i just found this, http://www.nationalengine.com/MitsubishiCatalog.htm

 

so a cordia, tredia and motero had the g63b, so does that mean a fwd auto would work aswell? just curious. im gonna attempt to see if any of my local junkyards have any of these cars on there lot.

[Punisher]

well your looking at no turbo engines and they are the small block type .rwd is what you need and hard to find in a 2.0 but hay look man Ive seen oem stuff that didnt make scence all you can do is hunt really. Good luck

[92 TSi AWD]

You want the motor out of a late 80s/early 90s Dodge or Mitsubishi pickup truck. Also I believe the Plymouth Arrow comes with the G63B.

 

I plan on using a G63B out of an 88 Dodge D-50 with an automatic transmission. The engine code is stamped on the ID plate on the firewall. The 4G63 in the DSMs are narrowblock and will not bolt to the Starion transmission.

 

Even though the only block you will find that was made turbo is the DSM one. they are almost identical. The DSM block has oil squirters but theyre really not needed in my opinion. Some people think otherwise but I dont think there has been one reported engine failure caused directly by not having the oil squirters. If you absolutely need them, a good machine shop can install them for you. I believe you just need to drill and tap the block as the oil vein is already there.

 

-Mike

[Loye]

^^^The 2.0L in the Arrows were g52b's

[batdude8]

so i went to my local pullapart and they had 3 d50/mighty maxs.. the first 2 i looked at were 2.6, but the last one was a 2.0 AUTOMATIC!!! wooot! so the hard part is done! i have the block. now to just get rods and pistons and this puppy is goin in!

[Punisher]

Its a 2.0 wideblock NA if so cool your in .