Punisher

Its a 2.0 wideblock NA if so cool your in .

luckly the 2.0 turbo wideblock had no holes in the block deck so I machined two small one in . Ive done several 2.4 engines one is getting 430 hp on the dyno. with no heating troubles . Let me know how that mode works out for you .P.S I hope you plan to bracket the water neck or it will work lose they dont need much to hold them the head has a couple ten mil. spots that would work great with a small L braclet welded off your neck. http://home.comcast.net/~tauna6/wsb/media/1299289/site1035.JPG

well your looking at no turbo engines and they are the small block type .rwd is what you need and hard to find in a 2.0 but hay look man Ive seen oem stuff that didnt make scence all you can do is hunt really. Good luck

Cool post a few pics along your way like to see what you do with it.

Ok nows the time if you want these to got on the wagon , Im going to be contacting everyone who wants a set and thats it one time deal . Im in the process of making a front and rear bumper/body kit for these cars and will have little time for much else , I have the proto finished we are in the mold make part now , I plan to post some pics soon real sweet looking keep your eyes open for this .http://home.comcast.net/~tauna6/wsb/media/1299289/site1053.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~tauna6/wsb/media/1299289/site1053.JPG ok b38 is around the heater core box I memory severs me Ill look lucky for you I have one in stripped mode quest getting full remake . I really think its much simpler to just put your eclipse harness in use power wires from the conquests ecu plug jump them to your eclipse harness ecu plugs add tack wire from your eclipse ecu to your quest tac and hook your quests fuel pump relay to switched power . ill see about doing a pic of that radiator for you today I really dont remember the car I pulled it from I run around the bone yard so often and for many hours I often forget were I get things from LOL just look for your mechanical needs ,thats what I do .I dont worry about make or model just wether it will fit or alot of fabing will be needed . your radiator you want will have the inlet close to the center the outlet will be in stock location as your quests is , you really want it to have a filler cap on the tank so you dont need that goofy filler neck .

Im going to ramble on for a minute bear with me its my form of a pep talk for anyone i will get you some pics up on the rad monday eve. didnt wast my time with all that I see a ecu the same as a standalone you just need the pinout IDs main things power ground you need battery back up this is full time 12v you need switched power this is when your key is on you need start power this is on only when key is in start position . the CAS ,injectors ,coil ,O2,TPS,knock,resistor pack ,ISC if you want and MAF . I use speed density much better system for messuring air no worries about open atmisphir BOV or even a small air leak .but youll need a stand alone for that or maybe a maf pro translator .oh ya just use the power wirers from the old ecu plug and hook your fuel pump relay to switched 12v power simply with a battery and a couple switches ecu harness engine you can fire it up outside a car on the ground LOL dont try it though . get the pinouts for your quest ecu and the pinouts for the eclipse ecu connect the dots simple .tac run wire to the new ecu , if I only had the time I would put a better web page up with movies on this I do these swaps alot out here so I just dont have time sorry good luck Oh and the harness info on 0G's site is not good for someone without alot of auto repair exp. just go with the basics pinouts pinouts from the to ecus and your VOM/multi meter should be very simple than .once you get this swap in you want ever care about that old tractor 2.6 engine so cut away at the old harness use heat shrink and solder always be clean it counts. oh and the fuel pump relay is way the heck up under the dash above the stock ecu location well time for bed cant think anymore peace...

http://home.comcast.net/~tauna6/wsb/media/1299289/site1054.JPG If you have a wideblock 2.0 everything will be fine but there is many choices after you get your wideblock like water pump , I mod the single cam truck pumps so I have a standerd hose connection to the rad. you need to do this because the DOHC timing/oil pump cover is differant/timing belt tensioner roller is the actual problem when fitting the SOHC water pump . than there is the matter of water outlet / there is a company that makes a front mounting water outlet for the DOHC heads / I just made my own . I also leave the back outlet on the head all but the t neck outlet .this is so you can run heater core , ISC and turbo if needed .This helps with proper Head cooling as well. You will need to use a body hammer on the firewall at the CAS and water housing locations if you do this right it will look fine I think I have pictures from 4 swaps ive done now .Take the CAS studs out from the DOHC head and use bolts so you can remove the CAS once your engine is installed If needed ever makes life nice. I also swap out the old radiator for a newer aluminum type find one at a local pull a part from a Hyundai they came with mitsubishi 2.0 engines to but have nice light plastic fans and the right water outlets , just be sure to mesure it for proper fit they did make a few differant radiators for those cars , but they are very good ones they will keep your car cool with almost no fan running at Idel . There is still more to consider in doing this swap , If you need more help I will try to answer questions .I have figured out the best parts selection to reach the closest Factory like fitment possible , I recantly found a brake vacume boost can with newer aluminum master cylinder that makes room for the magnus intake manifold to fit works great.

I am starting a list do to the response , if I recieve enough orders than pricing can drop . I wil sell these full sets for 375.00 if the order hits 10 than 360 and 20 order price 335.00 , you have the option of polished or brushed finish , pedal sizing and arm lengh . The e-brake is set for drifting meaning only when the button is depressed will it lock so you can pull it and let it snap back on its own but this option can be changed to standard e-brake button method ,other pedal designs may come later depanding on demand. 1. Monty 2. Sully 3. Sully 4. 83Techmaster 5. turbo_lover 6. travis88tsi 7. 88TSiEIP 8. 9. 10.

I am starting a list do to the response , if I recieve enough orders than pricing can drop . I wil sell these full sets for 375.00 if the order hits 10 than 360 and 20 order price 335.00 , you have the option of polished or brushed finish , pedal sizing and arm lengh . The e-brake is set for drifting meaning only when the button is depressed will it lock so you can pull it and let it snap back on its own but this option can be changed to standard e-brake button method ,other pedal designs may come later depanding on demand. http://home.comcast.net/~tauna6/wsb/media/1299289/site1050.JPG 1. Monty 2. Sully 3. Sully 4. 83Techmaster 5. turbo_lover 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

I found a dodge 904 transmission with are quest bell housing used that would work out well after u build it up full manual valve body . or the suporo i think it was called that has a saginof in it with a 2.6 . Anyway sounds like you got it covered let me know when u finish up shot me some pics .

you have a 2.0 wideblock turbo 12 valve or 8 . Mine was the 12v turbo sirus course its a hybrid now with the DOHC head . Do you have a 2.4 in your quest already .all ive done with mine is ARP's cometic head gasket and AEM to run it ,started it with a stock ecu but didnt like the fuel cut and other limitations of a stock ecu . so I tuned it up with the AEM oh ya and a fedenza flywheel . 20 psi bost and its fast as #*.I like to hear what other people have done .

Thanks I try . Kept the swap cheap as I could got that 2.0 wideblock for 600 it was a old crate motor some shop forgot about and a new owner bought the place and posted it , I was like im already there dud bag it up .slapped a DOHC head on that bugger and heck yes its fast . Actually there is alot of work involed for that swap but the good part is the block bolts in to are trans. of course and motor mounts dont need to be changed , so with that its all gravy. Ive done some big dollar swaps for guys using the 2.4 wideblock makes me dream wish I could through that kind of cash at a car it would be flat out sick.

Ive done a few of these car here in seattle .I have one of the only 2.0 widebock swaps around . I also produce many items for these cars localy to my quest friends . your welcom to contact me or visit my shop.