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ideal turbo for magna mpi


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Something that that flows carzy cfm but does NOT come on too late and has blistering acceleration in mid to upper rpms. I dont plan on reving past 5500-6000 rpms. HP goal is 350-400hp at the wheels. I have heard of 60-1 being popular but i am new to this so give me the scoop. I currently run a super 16g td06. and am not sure if it will meet my future requirements when i install my mpi. Even though this is arguable the best G series combo I need to explore other avenues of turbo performance with my pending MPI project. Thanks
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It's actually a "60-1 Hi-Fi"

 

If you get a the real 60-1 trim you will have to buy a T60.

 

The 60-1 hifi flows ~5-10% less than the 60-1 trim but you can fit that big boy right into a TO4B or TO4E housing.

 

60-1 hifi is defientely an awesome trim on these 4G54, or at least it impressed the hell out of me!

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Thanks for the reply. So it is the t-60 and i dont have to worry about the housings/trims or the 60-1 hi fi PERIOD. right? Why is the t-60 the "real" 60-1?. What do you think about adapting a t3 adapter plate on the stock ported/stressed relieved exhaust manifold like the tainters sometimes do? Will i be able to run the t-60 or 60-1 this way? Last but certainly not least how do these turbos compare to the 20g td06 which BTW would probably be the easiest upgrade for me being that i already run the super 16 g td06. So far my super 16 g and motor have only seen 10psi so i dont know what the turbo could really do. I guess i could just stick with it for now but i need your valuable EXPERIENCE/opinion for me to make my ultimate decision. HP goal is 350-400@wheels
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Thanks for the reply. So it is the t-60 and i dont have to worry about the housings/trims or the 60-1 hi fi PERIOD. right? Why is the t-60 the "real" 60-1?. What do you think about adapting a t3 adapter plate on the stock ported/stressed relieved exhaust manifold like the tainters sometimes do? Will i be able to run the t-60 or 60-1 this way? Last but certainly not least how do these turbos compare to the 20g td06 which BTW would probably be the easiest upgrade for me being that i already run the super 16 g td06. So far my super 16 g and motor have only seen 10psi so i dont know what the turbo could really do. I guess i could just stick with it for now but i need your valuable EXPERIENCE/opinion for me to make my ultimate decision. HP goal is 350-400@wheels

 

 

Personally I think welding a new flange on the stock manifold is OK for a temporary or short term running solution but feel a better suited manifold or header is really optimal.

 

The 60-1 hi fi flows 5-10% less due to the housing difference.

 

The actual 60-1 trim is listed as TO4B trim.

 

 

The difference is this:

 

60-1 - 4” inlet, 2.5” discharge

 

60-1 HiFi - 2 3/4” inlet, 2” discharge

 

http://www.turbocharged.com/catalog/t60.html

 

 

The 60-1 Performance Turbocharger

Representing the careful marriage of a unique high flow/high efficiency compressor section teamed up with a T4 turbine section the 60-1 has proven itself in every competitive motorsport application from drag racing to Bonneville. Available with either the standard (4” inlet, 2.5” discharge) compressor housing or the 60-1 Hi-Fi ( 2 3/4” inlet, 2” discharge) compressor housing, the 60-1 will outflow any standard T04B with ease! (The 60-1 Hi-Fi will deliver approximately 90-95% of the flow capacity of the standard 60-1.)

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thanks for the reply boosted one but what of the 20g td06? Is it better than the 60-1?

 

A 60-1 will squash a 20G.

 

 

60-1 flows 800+ cfm vs 650 cfms (max!!) on a 20G.

 

Kinda like comparing a 14G to an 18G.

 

Thanks Mike...boy that sounded good!

t3/t4 or even full on T4 turbos will squash any mitsu turbo anyday, not just performance wise but in the long run like repairing, swaping housings wether it be a compressor or turbine, and it is alot easier to find parts for them...

I call these tractor turbo's...they flow very high, they have great efficiency in pressurizing the engine up to 45 psi... :lol: :lol: :lol: :twisted:

 

I have not seen any problems with a welded on T3 or T4 flange on the stock log manifold whatsoever, even after glowing the manifold red hot....actually I think that our log manifolds are excellent...Not Only do they last longer than most others, but because they retain heat from the exhaust side such that when exhaust air is coming out of the head it is expanded by the log manifold even more, then it forces more air through the turbine housing....End result is better spoolup....

Now I have taken this a step further and that is by adding a 40 mm hole right below the turbo flange on the manifold for a 38mm tial WG... YOU DONT WANT BOOST SPIKE! and that was tough because cast iron is hard to cut up but it cameout well afterall...

The above setup is pretty much what the EIP blue car had when he ran 10.6 and later a 10.4...with some crazy boost figure...was it 35-40 psi??

 

The key in having a good weld is to super heat the cast manifold so that it binds well to the flange once welding....if that is not done, then the flange may separate....after a few heating and cooling cycles.

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I call these tractor turbo's...they flow very high, they have great efficiency in pressurizing the engine up to 45 psi... :lol: :lol: :lol: :twisted:

 

 

Yup! Tractor turbos.

 

My turbo is from a John Deere off of Ebay for $208. Factory new.

 

It originally was a TO4B S trim 1.18 hotside A/R O trim.

 

I sent it out to get a 60-1 trim and bought a .70 hotside housing and BOOM had a brand spanking new turbo for under $500.

 

These old TO4 turbos are awesome....old technology...naw...proven I call it...

 

eye to eye on that one man. ;)

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  • 4 weeks later...
I need to be directed in the right path as far as turbo selection is concerned. I saw a t66 with p trim(t4) ane.68 ar also a 62-1 one. they are none ball bearing. How quick do none ball bearing big turbos spool anyway? I need something that comes on as soon as 3500 rpm. I dont plan to rev past 6000-6500 rpms. Can the g45b rev past 6500 safely? I know it is a truck motor not a vtec but not sure of of its reliablity/volitility at that rpm range. I keep hearing go big on these motors. It is just that there are so many options you just want the best for you. I want 400hp and dont want t wait to 4500 rpms to start making it. I agree some of these turbos can help make big power but alot of you are forgeting it is also about WHEN that power is made.
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Thats nice but what did you think of those in the 6-700 dollar range. I cant spend over a grand on a turbo. thanks

 

You don't need a ball bearing turbo.

 

All you need to do is make sure you make your combos good for spooling quicker...so what does that mean?

 

Don't go too big on the turbine A/R

Don't go too big on the turbine trim

 

DO go bigger on the cold side.

DON'T go too big on the cold side trim or you will hit the surge zones on the trim/motor combo.

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Don't go too big on the turbine A/R -understood

Don't go too big on the turbine trim - understood

 

DO go bigger on the cold side. not understood. do you mean cold side ar?

DON'T go too big on the cold side trim or you will hit the surge zones on the trim/motor combo. not understood

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lionbull, you want a big turbo for what needs, drag racing, autocross(autoX), street and highway daily driving. or as show car.

 

i think it all depends what are you looking to do, for me its been clear, i done autox, street 1.4 mile race you guys can call it getto 1.4 mile :lol: race, but its a 1/4 mile race, and so far its ok, but 13 to 20 seconds driving at very high speed its alright, but i dont see it not much fun anymore, so i always wanna use my 88 starion for drifting and some people says its difficult, and friends (240sx, supras, ae86, 1.8 corolla, bmw, rx7) all those guys keep telling me, dude you too heavy, the car it does weight but what i need is more power going mpi with magna intake and 2nd gen head magna, and hopefully will get it soon in few weeks. i'm tired of 1/4 mile and autox, i realize its not my thing, so i'm going for drifting and thats for real, i will not look for big huge hp, just enough to make a good drift starion car, like i think it will be good 350hp for drifting, i will probably throw away my rears black leather seats, passenger seats, get the A/C compressor out, and relocate the battery in the back, do some lighweight reduction work.

 

So for turbo i think the T04 will do fine for my drift car project, good i haven't start yet on my engine. so far i have cover the suspension upgrade, i only need camber plates, but its all happening my drift project.

 

So T04E Should work for drifting or should i just get the T3T4, i'm not looking to go very fast straight line, i'm going to do side to side, going here and there. aqui y alla. what turbo should be good for drift car starion. and what trim size and a/r.

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Go and find out how much Supras weigh and then tell me our cars weigh too much.
guys keep telling me, dude you too heavy
I weighed my car at the track and it came in at 3200 pounds.
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Go and find out how much Supras weigh and then tell me our cars weigh too much.
guys keep telling me, dude you too heavy
I weighed my car at the track and it came in at 3200 pounds.

 

and im not even going to say how heavy my bmw is.

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3200 lbs. so thats not bad, i can still do some weight reduction and boom

EEH HAW.. not bad, man i was thinking it was heavy, because i have to push one time my car the 88 starion my battery went down and i have my friends to help me push it and it took like 4 guys almost 5 guys to push the car. man that was impressive. people looking saying no way is that heavy.. you know. but i never realize it could weight 3200lbs. but i will do some weight reduction for my drift project.

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