Jump to content

Wiring Stereo Speakers -- 88/89


Recommended Posts

Speaker wiring diagram for 88/89 (maybe 86 or 87).

 

Scooche and Metawire makes stereo wiring harnesses. You can buy them thru Crutchfield -- also, Circuit City and Best Buy. I was in a hurry so I bought a harness for a jeep cherokee and rearranged the order of the wires (removed and reinserted).

 

Also, do NOT use rheostat circuit for nighttime lighting -- use the taillight circuit instead.

 

1988 and newer Radio Female Connector (10 pin/8 wire)

Top Row - Left to Right

WR (Red Stripe on White) -------- Right Front (pos)

YR (Red Stripe on Yellow) ------- Right Rear (pos) Blank

BY (Yellow Stripe on Black) ----- Dimmer Control Switch (Rheostat)

GW (White Stripe on Green) ------ Fuse Box #06 Taillight

 

Bottom Row - Left to Right

Not Used

LgL (Light Blue on Light Green) - Left Front (pos)

YL (Light Blue on Yellow) ------- Left Rear (pos)

RB (Black Stripe on Red) -------- Fuse Box #01 Battery

LW (White on Light Blue) -------- Fuse Box #17 Accessory

 

1988 and newer Radio Female Connector (6 pin/5 wire)

Top Row - Left to Right

GrL (Light Blue on Green) ------- Left Rear (neg)

Blank

BL (Light Blue on Black) -------- Left Front (neg)

 

Bottom Row - Left to Right

GrR (Red Stripe on Green) ------- Right Rear (neg)

WB (Black Stripe on White) ------ Antenna

BR (Red Stripe on Black) -------- Right Front (neg)

 

Steering Wheel Controls Female Connector (8 pin/4 wire)

Top Row - Left to Right

YW (White Stripe on Yellow ------ Signal Wire coming from SWC Blank

GW (White Stripe on Green) ------ Taillight going to SWC (not used)

LW (White on Light Blue) -------- Fuse Box #17 ACC going to SWC

 

Bottom Row - Left to Right

Blank

Blank

BW (White Stripe on Black) ------ Ground

Blank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It depends -- the nighttime lights some aftermarket headunits will cause the reostat to burn up.  

 

I have a Fujitsu Eclipse 4441 Headunit.  It has a traditional looking face -- no flashing graphics, no equalizer leds.  I thought that it would be cool to have its display go brighter and dimmer with the dash gauge lights.

 

The next afternoon, I took a drive with my parking lights on.  I thought that I smelled something burning, but I told myself that I was imagining things.

 

That night, no dash gauge lights, no climate control lights, and no headunit lights.

 

The taillight circuit (ash tray, glove box, etc) is the safest way to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

some older units will f-up the cars wiring.however, alot of the newer units are designed to work with the rheostat curcuit. not all new brands or models have  this capability. most that have it acually have a label on the radios wire that says dimmer. not sure about alpine tho

burton

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Hey Indy,

 

Ok, I was able to check the wires on the wiring bundle that's on the car.  Just as a refresher, this is an 89 that came with no wiring harness connectors, just the stalk of wires that's left.

 

I was able to find all the wires that you have outlined on the list EXCEPT THESE:

 

LGL (Light Blue on Light Green)-Left Front (pos)----COULD THIS BE PASTEL GREEN?

GrL (Light Blue on Green)-Left Rear (neg)----COULD THIS BE LIGHT BLUE ON GREY?

GrR (Red stripe on Green)-Right Rear (neg)---COULD THIS BE RED ON GREY?

 

Those are the only 3 wires that were left but were not on the list.  What thoughts do you have on this?

 

Also, you mentioned not to use the reostat for night time lighting, since

GW (White stripe on Green) --Taillight going to SWC (not used) isn't connected to anything, can I connect to that wire for night time lighting?

 

 

Thanks

MANGO

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Somebody actually read my post closely.  You made my evening.  I was waiting for someone to notice those errors.

 

LGL (Light Blue on Light Green)-Left Front (pos)----COULD THIS BE PASTEL GREEN?

 

Hmmm, I thought this one was correct ---

LgL (Light Green with Light Green Stripe) - Left Front (pos)

--- edit ---

LgL (Light Green with Light Blue Stripe)

--- /edit ---

 

GrL (Light Blue on Green)-Left Rear (neg)----COULD THIS BE LIGHT BLUE ON GREY?

 

You are correct.  Gr is Grey.  It is not Green like I originally wrote.

 

GrR (Red stripe on Green)-Right Rear (neg)---COULD THIS BE RED ON GREY?

 

You are correct.  Gr is Grey.  It is not Green like I originally wrote.

 

Also, you mentioned not to use the reostat for night time lighting, since  

GW (White stripe on Green) --Taillight going to SWC (not used) isn't connected to anything, can I connect to that wire for night time lighting?

------------

Do Not Use this wire.

BY (Yellow Stripe on Black) ----- Dimmer Control Switch (Rheostat)

---------------

I think that you can use this one.  But, I would use a voltmeter, turn on parking lights and hook up a voltmeter first (to measure amps) to be safe.  After I blew out my reostat (with black/yellow), I took the real conservative route -- I tapped into green/white at ash tray.  

GW (White Stripe on Green) ------ Fuse Box #06 Taillight

--------------

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 9 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Hi all, I don't know if anyone is still looking at this post but I recently installed a JVC head unit in my '88 Quest and had zero problems with the rheostat circuit. It is kind of a newer unit but many harnesses are the same.  Maybe this will help someone.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I put a new head unit in my 88 yesterday.  For the wiring, I used Scosche harness kit MC-01.

The dash kit I had was a Metra 99-7000, and it DID NOT fit, even tho this is the kit Metra recommends for our cars.

 

Also the companies that make these are:

Scosche (not scooche ;D)  www.scosche.com

Metra (Not Metawire) www.metraonline.com

 

You can search by year and make on both sites for the proper kit.  Personally, I would recommend Scosche.  Circuit City had a Metra harness that appeared to be the same as our cars, but the part number was different from what the website said.  I think the site said 90-1743 and the one at the store was 80-1743

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I finally got my Kenwood installed and I'm happy that I finally have sound in my car when I'm stuck in traffic!!!! ;D ;D ;D

 

One thing though that I have yet to figure out and connect is the:

LEFT FRONT POSITIVE which according to the go-by, is a light blue stripe on green wire.

 

Well, I followed all the other wires and their connections and by the time I'm done connecting everything, the only ones left are:

LIGHT GREEN wire (no stripe)

WHITE STRIPE on GREEN

and the rheostat wire which we do not use.

 

So, where do I connect the LEFT FRONT POSITIVE of the aftermarket harness (it's white by the way) to the factory wires?  Those up top are the only wire colors left?

 

Oh by the way, the Scosche kit that's supposedly for our car, "multi-kit" whatever, is worth crap, didn't get to use it at all, ended up making my own brackets.

 

MANGO

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing though that I have yet to figure out and connect is the:

LEFT FRONT POSITIVE which according to the go-by, is a light blue stripe on green wire.

 

Well, I followed all the other wires and their connections and by the time I'm done connecting everything, the only ones left are:

LIGHT GREEN wire (no stripe)

WHITE STRIPE on GREEN

and the rheostat wire which we do not use.

 

Yes, you found another error in my original post.

 

"LgL" is a typing error. There is no light green with blue stripe wire in my 88 Conquest service manual. LEFT FRONT POSITIVE is "Lg" which is light green.

 

"GW" which is green with white stripe is fuse block #6 which is tail light/parking light/interior light circuit.

 

I strongly recommend disabling the front dash speakers. The factory dash and door speakers are 8 ohms. Aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms. The best way is to simply not use the factory front speaker wires at all. Run dedicated 16 gauge speaker wire to each door instead. Later, if you choose, you can install a voice-synth warning system (e.g. your door is ajar, key is in the ignition, please turn off headlights, etc) using your factory front dash speakers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...