Jump to content

Hawk wiring questions


Recommended Posts

I started labeling all the wires for the Hawk and I'm not quite clear on 2 things.

 

First off, the wiring diagram shows that I should have a green wire coming out of A1. This is the wire that provides the timing signal from the Hall effect sensor. My harness does not have this wire.... Is this not used or am I missing something here?

 

Secondly what is are the unlabled gray boxes?  There is one infront of the Hall effect pickup, the reluctor pickup, and the igniter.

 

Wiring up the ignition is my biggest concern at the moment. I'm running blind as far as wiring the Magna dizzy and these unlabeled boxes have got me scratching my head. So if anyone can clear this up for me I would appreciate it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want to use the hall effect style you need to swap the wire from the A2 pin.   I talked to the guys about this too and that is what I was told to do.  

 

The gray boxes you see are the shields that are on those wires.  They are tied into the ground wire that go to the pickups.  

 

I can help you on wiring up the dizzy but I dont have the information in front of me.  I will get it in a few days and post if for you.

 

Craig

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what are the wireing  colors on the  aussie dist plug  you have,, seems theres more then one plug,, and the wires are diff  colors  

you have 1 dist pick up lead  you use diferently  depending on the style  pick up your  gona use, i can  take a pic of my dist plug  and post it if you want , shows the  resistor  solder'd in place and  wire orentation

also if you don't want to  use the  hawk to control  timeing the stock dist will work also

to  keep the plug wires in some thing like  stock location, install the aussie dist  180 out of  the timeing  marks on the dist , this puts  #1 in almost the stock  location,

shutter door is almost  center'd on the pick up, this will place you with in a few degrees of the  programs timeing  seting

 

the aussie dist has  the 60 degree advance timeing already  built into it, so do not  figure  it when  seting timeing,,  the rotor will point  towards #1 but not  dead on , the Hawks program has the 60 btdc  built into  it also , so you go by the base timeing  reading, like if it says  8btdc,(  or what ever  * btdc it  gives you ) set the  timeing to 8 btdc,(or * #) then adj it in the program, that way  what the program says  will be the same as what it realy is

the aussie dist  is in a frt wheel drive car , this places the rotor to the  dead  back at  it's tdc markings  , so if you are not useing the tdc funtion on the dist ,  it makes no diff where it's align'd tdc or 180 out ,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys that certainly clears things up a bit.

 

I'm due to receive my dist. any day now. It's supposed to be off a TP Magna. I'll post a pic when I get it and hopefully one of you guys will recognize the plug.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shelby: go ahead and snap those pictures of your dizzy plug harness. As I will be needing it shortly too. Rob I'll snap a picture of mine for you tomorrow, that way you'll have something to compare it too, when it arrives.

 

Rob: good luck with wiring this thing up, I'm still waiting on mine to arrive... Remember you are going to need a gm 4 wire ignitor also for the Hawk. You can pick them up at the local autozone autoparts store...

 

Here's a link for a list of cars it came in. It's going to have to be special ordered so expect a 2 week waiting period. P/N 35361(top one), it should be an accel part.

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?...p;x=19&y=17

You'll also have to get a piece of aluminum to create a heatsink for it. I have a piece here, I know that I'm not going to need all of it. I'll send the rest your way, that way you don't have to hunt/search/pay for one... All you'll have to do is pay for shipping...

 

Glenn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, I got a HEI ignitor module already. I hadn't thought about a heatsink though. These things are mounted inside a GM distributor, do they really make a lot of heat?

I was planning to mount it on to a piece of aluminum stock, do you think that would work well enough?

 

I'm expecting my dizzzy either today or tomorrow. Then it's no more excuses, I've got to get may hands dirty LOL. I would kill for one more day in the 60's up here, trying to wiring in a cold garage sucks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rob, how's the wiring going? Do you need pictures of some stuff? I can help out alittle, as I learned alot from Shelby and remember off hand what wires go to where. I just finished/finishing the last bit. So, let me know if you need some help, I'll see what I can do.

 

Glenn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the pics and help guys. I'm glad to hear your getting your car together Glenn.

 

I'm getting stuck up on a bunch of little crap. I don't have a connector for the TPS or MAP sensors. It looks like the thermostat housing from my '88 is too long, it doesn't look like I can get the rad. hose on it. I guess I need to track down an '86 or later housing? My Isuzu IC needs a lot more modification to the bumper and rad. support than I thought (just picked up some more cut-off wheels...). Plus, I recently realized Glen k. shipped my intake without taping the port for the water hose outlet and NOBODY in my area has a 3/8" NPT tap so I just had to order one of those.

 

Other than that it's going like clockwork!  ::)

 

I did get my Magna dist. from Trent though so as soon as I deal with all this little stuff I should be ready to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I had a bunch of little things to deal with too. I had to weld a bolt to my hard pipe for the airtemp sensor, because I didn't have one tapped into the intake manifold. I am also waiting on a fuel line from the filter to the rail. But, other than that I have everything ready to go.

 

Rob, you may want to think about wiring in a swt for the fuel pump. The b34 is a black single wire on the passenger side well coming from the back of the car. Wire a switch inline with that, other wise, when you are trying to tune/make chages on the ecu, the fuel pump will be running the entire time the car is in the on, but not started position. I can get some pictures of mine if you want, just let me know.

 

Good luck with everything, sounds like you are doing alright. I have yet to find the stock oil pressure gauge wire coming from the gauge. Do you know which one it is?

 

Like I said, goodluck, catch you later...

 

BTW, The TPS and MAP sensors can be found at the local yard. I pick a MAP sensor plug from a gm, doesn't matter which one, you'll have to cut slits down the sides of the plug to get them to fit, atleast I did. The TPS can be found on the fords, I got mine from a 3.8 liter taraus, newer body style, not sure whatelse uses that type besides the mustangs(also depends on what year TB you have).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:o  sorry Glenn it will matter hat one  to gm has  4 or 5 diff  loc patterns  for their maps,, you may need to take the map  with you ,

 

tip the  plastic locators for the  terminal  plugs  on the map sensor plugs  can be  pull'd out and  thrown away or move'd arround  to make the  connector  fit  the map ;)

 

also  ford has several diff  wire colors to their  tps's  no  bigie  just the wires are diff  colors from one yr to another

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, Shelby, I know that they need a certain locating pattern. But, in reality all you really need is the plug, doesn't really matter which one. You can cut slits down the side, creating new a new locating pattern. That's what I did after checking about 12 different cars and still not finding the right one....

 

Just a thought though..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wouldn't it be easier to tune the ECU with a set base pressure? Although maybe with the bigger injectors a lower fuel pressure would help around smooth things out at idle and low rpms.

 

I've already got the manifold tapped so I guess I could try that vac. source to start out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
manifold vacum is  use'd  widely  it also alows a little extra fuel durring the throddle movement to act like an excellerator pump with no changes  being made to the fuel map (that little hesitation as the throddle is move'd )
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...